Autotune is complete GARBAGE!!! Every OHV we have tested it on runs EXTREMELY lean at WOT. Very dangerous. Lean is NOT mean contrary to popular wisdom.
Both of those are already on my top priority list. With the IGR you need stronger clutch apply as well to compensate for the extra torque load over stock. Clutch apply is on the top priority list as well. Having both the Talon and Pioneer and knowing the differences in the tunes should make finding those maps, scalars and switches easier to find. Wish me luck, lol.
Wouldn’t that depend on the map..
Clutching is based off of pressure. Can be adjusted manually, it’s not based off of the solenoid like shift points are.
Even when the max pressure is mechanically controlled there is still duty cycle to control apply pressure, shift timing and apply timing. You will notice this if you barely ease into the throttle without going fast enough for full engagement vs gently accelerate from a stop vs full throttle from a stop.
Like joeymt33 and others have mentioned, it can be modified to work in a pinch or in the absence of compatible tuning hardware/software. It can be made to work well at what it is capable of. The problem is all the stuff it is NOT capable of. That's a very long list. In original form they ARE GARBAGE. Stoich full throttle AFR is EXTREMELY damaging on anything with a high specific output.
The gear reduction is in-between the engine and clutch so the torque multiplication hits the clutch.
If the voltage from the clutch pressure sensors are too low or high it will lock it in 2nd gear. I do not know what the threshold is. I shimmed my regulator spring and picked up about 10psi, basically getting me back to stock from what the clutch cover update took away. 110psi idle and 130 psi rev'ed up. The PC (Pressure Control) valve that @joeymt33 posted controls the pressure everywhere. It eases take off, eases shifts and cuts flow when disengaging. I've modded just about everything in mine mechanically but need in the computer now.
