Agreed. If i were in the market for a new trailer it would be 84"I think my machine height measurement with the Honda plastic roof was 76”-ish (easy enough to measure yours as it sits). But if you add bigger tires you might need more so going to 79-80” should prevent you from having issues down the road with changes.
I pull the front edge of the front rim up to the man door to get my trailer back to level. Pretty much puts the SxS centered over the trailer axles. I didn’t get any sway from the trailer on the trip.When loading in forward, do you guys have any problems with tongue weight? That's a lot of weight behind the axles' centerline to be offset with 'camper stuff' up front.
If i remember correctly, when it was strapped down the back of the tires were even with the rear of the trailer's wheel wells. No swaying issue at all. Only gear at the front is a winch & battery, spare tire, and a heavy box of tools.When loading in forward, do you guys have any problems with tongue weight? That's a lot of weight behind the axles' centerline to be offset with 'camper stuff' up front.
You don’t need 80” door opening…because of the approach angle…and because you have a P1000-3 you might get away with a shorter door than the -5.So just to clarify, 8ft wide is best, but 7 works. I need 80 inch door height correct?
@Jason WThe more exotic the height, the more expensive the trailer will be and it will harder to buy and sell as well.
I really recommend you test fit a buggy in the trailer before you buy the trailer.
I think the plus 6 is what i had and it fit fine with the Honda roof on stock suspension. Probably had another 3” or so for extra wiggle above the roof.@Jason W
You can find “plus 6 in “ and “plus 12 in” height trailers pretty easy. I did a plus 6 and there is plenty of room.
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You think you could get a Pioneer 1000 5 in your trailer?I put a 9K RV unit on mine (14x7).
Also added a reversible powered vent that I really like. And added 4 tinted windows, screened.
Yes please@Jason W I’m probably going to end up selling my enclosed that I used to haul around my P1K5…. as the new Talon doesn’t fit. I’ll get specs and pictures if you are interested
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It just takes some bracing and wiring…about anywhere you want to put it on the roof.Where would install an rv ac unit, might could do it myself
It a good looking trailer JasonW. I’ve saw it several times. It’s pretty nice@Jason W I’m probably going to end up selling my enclosed that I used to haul around my P1K5…. as the new Talon doesn’t fit. I’ll get specs and pictures if you are interested
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It wasnt hard at all, knuckledeeps dad framed the inside with 2x4, screwed it to the steel stringers and cut the hole. The A/c has to be aligned with the hole perfectly then anchors down. The whole process was easier than I thought it would be. Then after we installed it we had a heavy rain and didn't have any leaks. We originally had a front window unit that's why we have two bridges they were on each side of the unit.Anyone have experience installing rv styl ac in a enclosed
Most people on the FB cargo conversion pages say to go with a mini split AC. I’m gonna go with a dual hose portable unit first. This is my 8.5x16x7 I closed that I’ll be converting pver the next few months.
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Yeah as an HVAC tech, your looking at expensive repairs putting those systems in a moving style situation. They are not made for that and the 2 sometimes 3 DC circuit boards are one, expensive and 2 delicate. The rigorous road travel will not be be good. Not to mention like you said protecting the condenser coil. Std residential condensing units are not made for those applications. You would never get a cirtified tech to work on one nor will the warranty be valid installed that way.Me and Justin (knuckledeep) debated a minisplit our concern was protecting the outer unit from road debris and where to mount it besides the tongue.
Those people are in for a world of hurt installing those as Ive stated above.Most people on the FB cargo conversion pages say to go with a mini split AC