Tramper/ toyhauler

Jason W

Jason W

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Yeah as an HVAC tech, your looking at expensive repairs putting those systems in a moving style situation. They are not made for that and the 2 sometimes 3 DC circuit boards are one, expensive and 2 delicate. The rigorous road travel will not be be good. Not to mention like you said protecting the condenser coil. Std residential condensing units are not made for those applications. You would never get a cirtified tech to work on one nor will the warranty be valid installed that way.
Thats why their are RV roof tops. The condenser coils face in the rear

Is there a particular brand of rv rooftop that is better, or ones to avoid, are they all 220 or 120v
 
Coeus

Coeus

Major General
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@Jason W I’m probably going to end up selling my enclosed that I used to haul around my P1K5…. as the new Talon doesn’t fit. I’ll get specs and pictures if you are interested
View attachment 432276
@Jason W As many details as I could find..
2021 7x16 v-nose tandem spring 3500lb axles (gvwr is 7000). It’s a Cargo Express and has e-tracks installed. Painted floor. RV door with latch
IMG 0613
IMG 0583
 
Remington

Remington

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Is there a particular brand of rv rooftop that is better, or ones to avoid, are they all 220 or 120v
They are typically 110
Colmans are most popular and good. In fact the only thing Coleman does good when it comes to heating and cooling lol the residential stuff is junk.
 
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Average_Joe

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Yeah as an HVAC tech, your looking at expensive repairs putting those systems in a moving style situation. They are not made for that and the 2 sometimes 3 DC circuit boards are one, expensive and 2 delicate. The rigorous road travel will not be be good. Not to mention like you said protecting the condenser coil. Std residential condensing units are not made for those applications. You would never get a cirtified tech to work on one nor will the warranty be valid installed that way.
Thats why their are RV roof tops. The condenser coils face in the rear

You made a fine point how long can the internals handle bumpy roads until something fails.
 
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Average_Joe

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In the end get what you can tow, when we originally started building the conversion
In January this year everything was approached as how much weight will each item add both of our trucks 2014 F150 Tremor and 2020 Ranger FX4 can only tow 7500lbs. The trailer empty is 3000 or 3500lbs and the Krx is 2200. We were fortunate a deal on a 2002 dually fell in our lap levitating those concerns.

We camped in it at TO that was our first trip it's 80% done and you don't realize what goes into it until you do it from scratch.
 
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Vikes79

Vikes79

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Smaller trailers are 30 amp, 120 volt. 50 amp 220 are typically for larger dual A/C units.
If you’re referring to RVs, I’ve never seen a RV that was 50 amp 220v , however there are all kinds of 50 amp 120v rigs however.

The rating is to run the whole coach not necessarily the ac unit.

You can run most RV rooftop AC units on a 20amp 110 circuit as long as you don’t run anything else on electricity.
 
Jankyeye

Jankyeye

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If you’re referring to RVs, I’ve never seen a RV that was 50 amp 220v , however there are all kinds of 50 amp 120v rigs however.
Probably a little deeper than what was originally asked but my understanding is that the 50 amp rv circuit has two hot legs, 110/120v each or 220/240 across them. The camper/rv themselves are normally all 120 v appliances but run two separate circuits divided between the legs of the 240 v capable input.

This is different than 30a 120v rv circuit that just has one hot leg feeding the unit. I’m no rv tech and my electrician license lapsed many years ago but I have stayed at a holiday in express a few times. And lent a helping hand installing a few home rv hook ups. What normally gets people in trouble is when they wire a 30a 120v rv plug like a dryer/oven plug for 220v that does bad things to 120 v rv systems.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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Probably a little deeper than what was originally asked but my understanding is that the 50 amp rv circuit has two hot legs, 110/120v each or 220/240 across them. The camper/rv themselves are normally all 120 v appliances but run two separate circuits divided between the legs of the 240 v capable input.

This is different than 30a 120v rv circuit that just has one hot leg feeding the unit. I’m no rv tech and my electrician license lapsed many years ago but I have stayed at a holiday in express a few times. And lent a helping hand installing a few home rv hook ups. What normally gets people in trouble is when they wire a 30a 120v rv plug like a dryer/oven plug for 220v that does bad things to 120 v rv systems.
Yep that’s correct , two circuits of 120 v

Too many think it’s the same as a motor or compressor running on 220v etc as you mentioned…I should have elaborated more👍
 
Remington

Remington

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Ductless mini split on a trailer by our shop.
Its stationary and has its own dedicated 220 circuit from the building. Technically the only way this will work. Scratchy but works.
Notice how the condenser is supported. They are not lite by any means so going down the road with this 👎🏻
IMG 1679
 
Mopower58

Mopower58

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Is there a particular brand of rv rooftop that is better, or ones to avoid, are they all 220 or 120v
I had 1 ,110V,15,000 BTU Coleman on this trailer and in the hot, hot summer it would barely keep up. However it was all black and 36’X 102” wide and 84” tall. On a trailer around 24’ long it would be plenty.
IMG 1207
 
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