P1000 Warranty on blown engine

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I'm completely out of the loop on this but I've been following all these issues but I for one don't use my 900 Ranger for its intended purpose like riding in the water, mud or offroad trails. Mine is almost a year old and never been off pavement yet. I'd love to have the new Pioneer 1000 and would trade for one in a heartbeat but I read all these serious issues and worry! As Honda has always been on the forefront of technology and they never update any machine like Polaris does monthly it seems, I CANNOT believe they did so many little things wrong that they should have learned from Polaris from their experience with UTV's to this point. It sure just don't seem like the Honda of the 1990's and early 2000's
 
CumminsPusher

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I've had both and hands down Honda is better. It's not even in the same league. People don't get hurt from the Honda because of manufacturing defects. Now with that said polaris especially the ranger had its fair share of water issues they have gotten better. Honda changed the design of the intake system to better the machine however it did backfire a bit. A snorkeled pioneer is a dependable one! Or stay away from deep water or water at speed. It makes heat but they all do however it's not to the point that the government steps in like some. Polaris changes every year to add more gadgets to sell. It's still the same old snowmobile belt and maximum power from the displacement to cause early failure. I talk poor of other brands because it's not as simple as putting a heat shield and a snorkel on it to make it dependable. We've had and been around lots and it's been obvious. I wouldn't own a Polaris car,dirt bike,generator or lawnmower and now there is a choice in sxs I won't do that again. They are pretty good out of the gate and always have been but they have some to learn. They don't have all of the forced recalls to teach them. I fully agree with you they have some short comings to get up over and hopefully they will. We all b**** sometimes but I guess we expect more then just a pretty rig with lots of factory gadgets. Honda is giving the market hell and it's good for everyone. All manufacturing has to step up the more there are.


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Ridem32

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I have read this whole thread. If all clamps are tight where is the water entering the air box? Someone explain to me please. It's all plastic and rubber fittings. The intake is at a high point under the hood. I know the intake tube (duct) runs down low under the seat. But I'm not sure where the water is entering the system. I got about 250 miles on mine all farm use no trail riding yet I do run mind up the road to buy horse feed 8 mile round trip. So far a great ride!!


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CumminsPusher

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It's coming into the intake on front. Even a heavy puddle it can splash there. Goes down the tube under the passenger seat. If it collects there it can be sucked into the motor at once after it fills up to where it can't breathe. That's what happened to mine. Maybe not all but I believe it to be most. There are lots of ideas for sure but that is what happened. There is room for about half a gallon there and my clamps were tight trans oil was clean motor was two quarts high the water. The motor seized instantly so the water didn't circulate through the transmission.


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Ridem32

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Ok so your saying it entering thru the pre filter under the hood where the air first enters the air intake system? Most Honda 4 wheelers the air intake is under the seat which is lots lower then the pioneer 1k. Was your pre filter wet? That would have to be very deep water or lots of high splashing water. If the complete air intake system is sealed like it should be, you should be able to go into water at a very slow speed or just set at idle just inches below the intake. Which would be about seat high or higher. I have not had my air box open to see filter or how the air box is sealed. But I will check out all the duct work from hood to air box. I had my front fender off when I swapped from red to white had to remove the fitting that's attached to the intake box. That just left a round air tube going straight up could that be turned back towards the cab? Just trying to come up with a fix without putting hole in hood and having a snorkel sticking out.


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Delton

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Ok so your saying it entering thru the pre filter under the hood where the air first enters the air intake system? Most Honda 4 wheelers the air intake is under the seat which is lots lower then the pioneer 1k. Was your pre filter wet? That would have to be very deep water or lots of high splashing water. If the complete air intake system is sealed like it should be, you should be able to go into water at a very slow speed or just set at idle just inches below the intake. Which would be about seat high or higher. I have not had my air box open to see filter or how the air box is sealed. But I will check out all the duct work from hood to air box. I had my front fender off when I swapped from red to white had to remove the fitting that's attached to the intake box. That just left a round air tube going straight up could that be turned back towards the cab? Just trying to come up with a fix without putting hole in hood and having a snorkel sticking out.


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You have more options than just cutting your hood or an exposed snorkel. Hondasxs ran a simple hose from prefilter towards the rear ending under the dash. Simple yet effective. I have the snorkel that mounts to actual airbox and comes up between bed and seat. If someone wasn't actually looking for a snorkel, I doubt they'd ever notice it. Intake is behind passenger head rest. In my opinion by not doing something, you are vulnerable. It can be hard to dodge every single puddle at speed. Just my .02 (which isn't worth squat lol).
 
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Ridem32

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This is one I found on eBay Cc9cae98c56d786cec3b118f38eee263


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CumminsPusher

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By the time I checked the pre filter was dry but there was residual in the pipe right after. It was evident at different places in the system that it went all the way. The water we had been going through was approximately 9-10in deep nothing super bad by all means. Speed was between 30-35 maybe. We had been going through this puddle and others that weren't as deep on the road several times that weekend. The last puddle the machine died in the middle and coasted out. The water bounces around I believe just I front of the intake next to the radiator probably from the tires. And yes something as simple as a 90 deg could be placed backwards on the up tube to suck backwards under the hood. Possibly as simple as placing that in may take care of this. I chose Joeys snorkel as I like the looks and it's easy to take off for areas near me that don't allow a snorkeled vehicle. Any of the ideas will help I'm just suggesting to snorkel it.


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Crow_Hunter

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Ok so your saying it entering thru the pre filter under the hood where the air first enters the air intake system? Most Honda 4 wheelers the air intake is under the seat which is lots lower then the pioneer 1k. Was your pre filter wet? That would have to be very deep water or lots of high splashing water. If the complete air intake system is sealed like it should be, you should be able to go into water at a very slow speed or just set at idle just inches below the intake. Which would be about seat high or higher. I have not had my air box open to see filter or how the air box is sealed. But I will check out all the duct work from hood to air box. I had my front fender off when I swapped from red to white had to remove the fitting that's attached to the intake box. That just left a round air tube going straight up could that be turned back towards the cab? Just trying to come up with a fix without putting hole in hood and having a snorkel sticking out.


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Go out an look at your machine again.

The actual primary intake is not under the hood. It is behind the radiator offset to one side. Easiest thing is to pull out the prefilter foam and feel around for the opening. You will notice there is a big hole down there.

While there might be a little air pulled in "under the hood" the vast majority of the air is coming in right behind the radiator and very subject to splashing from the wheel wells. I am not sure why they did it that way.

I think a better design would be to put a hose off of the intake and run it back so that the inlet is right behind the shifter opening facing the driver but with an inlet 90 degree downward turn. That would give you a higher inlet and possibly draw in some of that hot air that is blowing through the shifter openings but just doing the 90 degree elbow facing backwards under the hood is probable enough and will be superior to the current design.

If/when I get my shoulder back to normal, I plan on doing this to my machine.
 
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Go out an look at your machine again.

The actual primary intake is not under the hood. It is behind the radiator offset to one side. Easiest thing is to pull out the prefilter foam and feel around for the opening. You will notice there is a big hole down there.

While there might be a little air pulled in "under the hood" the vast majority of the air is coming in right behind the radiator and very subject to splashing from the wheel wells. I am not sure why they did it that way.

I think a better design would be to put a hose off of the intake and run it back so that the inlet is right behind the shifter opening facing the driver but with an inlet 90 degree downward turn. That would give you a higher inlet and possibly draw in some of that hot air that is blowing through the shifter openings but just doing the 90 degree elbow facing backwards under the hood is probable enough and will be superior to the current design.

If/when I get my shoulder back to normal, I plan on doing this to my machine.
What'd you do to your shoulder? Haven't seen you on here in a while it seems. Everything still going well with your 1000?
 
CumminsPusher

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Crowhunter that is absolutely correct. It's a simple design malfunction that is easily corrected and would make this machine much more acceptable to be around water.


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Crow_Hunter

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What'd you do to your shoulder? Haven't seen you on here in a while it seems. Everything still going well with your 1000?

I didn't the doctor did.

To make a really long story short, I went in for a simple procedure to remove a cyst and wound up with a non-functional accessory nerve 11 and a left shoulder with a paralyzed trap muscle so I can't lift my left arm normally. While the doctor was cutting my whole body jerked twice and when I went to pay I couldn't raise my arm to get my wallet out of my left rear pocket. The doctor said "It wasn't anything I did":mad: And who else was digging around in my cervical posterior triangle with a sharp scalpel...

On top of that, leaving my shoulder unsupported for any length of time causes very bad pain that feels like a muscle cramp running across my clavicle to the point that I can't do anything but hug my arm and try to get comfortable. So for now I am stuck not doing anything with that shoulder.:(

Hopefully it isn't transected but I won't know that until I get an evaluation by an peripheral nerve specialist tomorrow and may wind up having to have exploratory surgery and a nerve graft.

I wish I had spent as much time researching doctors and supposedly "simple medical procedures" as I did my Pioneer 1000.o_O

I haven't been using it. Can't drive it right now. Apparently your trap muscle is very important in steering, I tried to help my wife by moving it when she was mowing the yard and that was not a pleasant experience at all.

My wife used it a couple of times to do some yard maintenance/cutting tree limbs and such and really liked it.
 
CumminsPusher

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I'm sorry to hear of this crow! A nerve graft doesn't sound fun at all I hope you get better without needing that!
 
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Crow_Hunter

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I'm sorry to hear of this crow! A nerve graft doesn't sound fun at all I hope you get better without needing that!

Me too.

If it isn't cut and just bruised it will take about 2 months. If it is badly pulled but not actually cut it could take a year to get better depending on the damage. If it is cut, it will require a graft and it might not get better but if it does, it will take a couple of years.

I am hoping for door number one.
 
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CumminsPusher

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Yes door number one sounds good for sure! Crow I am sorry to hear of this! I hope you get better fast it's no fun being hurt!


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I didn't the doctor did.

To make a really long story short, I went in for a simple procedure to remove a cyst and wound up with a non-functional accessory nerve 11 and a left shoulder with a paralyzed trap muscle so I can't lift my left arm normally. While the doctor was cutting my whole body jerked twice and when I went to pay I couldn't raise my arm to get my wallet out of my left rear pocket. The doctor said "It wasn't anything I did":mad: And who else was digging around in my cervical posterior triangle with a sharp scalpel...

On top of that, leaving my shoulder unsupported for any length of time causes very bad pain that feels like a muscle cramp running across my clavicle to the point that I can't do anything but hug my arm and try to get comfortable. So for now I am stuck not doing anything with that shoulder.:(

Hopefully it isn't transected but I won't know that until I get an evaluation by an peripheral nerve specialist tomorrow and may wind up having to have exploratory surgery and a nerve graft.

I wish I had spent as much time researching doctors and supposedly "simple medical procedures" as I did my Pioneer 1000.o_O

I haven't been using it. Can't drive it right now. Apparently your trap muscle is very important in steering, I tried to help my wife by moving it when she was mowing the yard and that was not a pleasant experience at all.

My wife used it a couple of times to do some yard maintenance/cutting tree limbs and such and really liked it.
Not good... Hate to hear that.
I've seen my share of arthroplasty cases, and there is no simple surgery - especially proximal to the spine.
A 300 pound contraindicated woman could have an infected TKR resulting in a "high risk" distal femur and hinge with no abnormal post-op issues, and the next "simple" case could be a distal radius plate that resulted in radial nerve stretch and extremity palsy. You never know...
Definitely do your homework with your nerve specialist...
 
Crow_Hunter

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Not good... Hate to hear that.
I've seen my share of arthroplasty cases, and there is no simple surgery - especially proximal to the spine.
A 300 pound contraindicated woman could have an infected TKR resulting in a "high risk" distal femur and hinge with no abnormal post-op issues, and the next "simple" case could be a distal radius plate that resulted in radial nerve stretch and extremity palsy. You never know...
Definitely do your homework with your nerve specialist...

If my doctor had followed the current standard of care for the procedure instead of the antique version AND more importantly had visualized the nerve location before starting AND even more importantly realized that he was out of his league and referred me to a thoracic surgeon instead, I wouldn't be in this situation.

If nothing else, when I jerked, not once but TWICE while under his knife, he could/should have verified that the nerve was not transected while he had me on the table. (I EVEN ASKED HIM DID HE TOUCH A NERVE OR SOMETHING!!!!) Even I with a very cursory examination of procedures online could find that a reaction like that is an indication that a nerve was contacted and a doctor should find and verify that the nerve hasn't been transected.

When I came back to him less than 5 min after the surgery and said I couldn't raise my arm, he could have cut the sutures and opened me back up and made sure that he didn't cut anything while I was still numb from the Lidocaine but instead he just said that he didn't do it.

Instead he said that it wasn't anything that he did and if he had cut the nerve I wouldn't be able to use my arm at all. Which is an indication that he apparently is a doctor who doesn't understand anatomy.:rolleyes: Then he had his nurse call me and tell me that it was just a reflex (which is caused by some type of a shock to a nerve fiber, duh....) or it was because of my metabolism of a Lidocaine...

Luckily I took it upon myself to go to an ortho who agreed something was wrong and sent me to an EMG study to find out that the SAN was not working. Hopefully, I am still in the window of getting it repaired if it was transected instead of needing a graft.

Sorry for the thread derail.
 
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If my doctor had followed the current standard of care for the procedure instead of the antique version AND more importantly had visualized the nerve location before starting AND even more importantly realized that he was out of his league and referred me to a thoracic surgeon instead, I wouldn't be in this situation.

If nothing else, when I jerked, not once but TWICE while under his knife, he could/should have verified that the nerve was not transected while he had me on the table. (I EVEN ASKED HIM DID HE TOUCH A NERVE OR SOMETHING!!!!) Even I with a very cursory examination of procedures online could find that a reaction like that is an indication that a nerve was contacted and a doctor should find and verify that the nerve hasn't been transected.

When I came back to him less than 5 min after the surgery and said I couldn't raise my arm, he could have cut the sutures and opened me back up and made sure that he didn't cut anything while I was still numb from the Lidocaine but instead he just said that he didn't do it.

Instead he said that it wasn't anything that he did and if he had cut the nerve I wouldn't be able to use my arm at all. Which is an indication that he apparently is a doctor who doesn't understand anatomy.:rolleyes: Then he had his nurse call me and tell me that it was just a reflex (which is caused by some type of a shock to a nerve fiber, duh....) or it was because of my metabolism of a Lidocaine...

Luckily I took it upon myself to go to an ortho who agreed something was wrong and sent me to an EMG study to find out that the SAN was not working. Hopefully, I am still in the window of getting it repaired if it was transected instead of needing a graft.

Sorry for the thread derail.
Physicians need to have the utmost concern for patient satisfaction and care or get out of the business.
 
Ridem32

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Ok all air enters thru the pre filter. I had a 2inch PVC coupling it fits very snug in the factory pipe. Can be glued with PVC glue. Not sure if I leave the black box on and drill a hole for pipe out the top if there will be enough room for a 90 elbow to clear hood. Might can use flex hose or just remove the black box! The reason I would like to keep black box is due to the rubber adjustment for the hood support 03fb1719f351679d7b73314c53e4d097


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