M
SLOWPOKE693
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I would expect them to be the same width but we all know how much the offsets vary from wheel manufacturer to wheel manufacturer.
Farmer
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M
There's a practice session in the morning of the race, but not a dedicated practice day.
M
Does anyone know what the stock talon x wheel offset is?
EDIT: Found it.
Stock front 6.5" wheel, 50mm offset
Stock rear 8" wheel, 33mm offset
I found a set of 15x8 wheels with a -10 offset
With a 235/70/15 tire (28x9x15)
Front's will stick out 79mm further
Rear's will stick out 43mm further
So if I ran a 2" spacer in the rear, and and no spacer in the front, I would net out with
3.11" wider in the front on each side
2.7" wider in the rear on each side
However the tire is narrower in the rear...
EDIT: Found it.
Stock front 6.5" wheel, 50mm offset
Stock rear 8" wheel, 33mm offset
I found a set of 15x8 wheels with a -10 offset
With a 235/70/15 tire (28x9x15)
Front's will stick out 79mm further
Rear's will stick out 43mm further
So if I ran a 2" spacer in the rear, and and no spacer in the front, I would net out with
3.11" wider in the front on each side
2.7" wider in the rear on each side
However the tire is narrower in the rear...
Last edited:
SLOWPOKE693
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Supporting Member
M
SLOWPOKE693
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Supporting Member
The lower you go the better it will corner on a flat track. Any rule against pulling the shocks and installing heims/rods in their place? Left turns only?
M
No rule about pulling the shocks or anything, but I don't think I want to go that crazy yet haha
Looks like I can get the machine down to 68" tall. Just need to pick up ~4" of width, all while losing two inches in tire size and we're there.
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By nature of geometry, that is impossible. The shock mount points are about 1/2 way down the trailing arm so for every 1 inch of movement at the wheel, the shock will only compress/move about 1/2 inch. That is why your suspension travel is like 17" and your shock only has 9" of travel.
Sounds like your tires are sticking to the ground and preventing the suspension from settling (my R does this badly), try this...
Roll forward and back 5 feet and compress the suspension (not bounce, just push down), repeat at least 5 times. Roll forward and back 5 feet one final time and then measure.
If that doesn't yield the needed height, remove the tenders. You won't need them for a flat track like where you are going to race and it will stiffen up the suspension. Probably ride like a tank but it will turn flatter (like a sports car).
Your math doesn't exactly add up. 2" spacers in the rear would make you 3.7" wider on each side, not 2.7".
Anyway, I have a spreadsheet for that
With that tire/wheel combination At STOCK HEIGHT, you will be ~69" front and ~66" Rear. You will need 1.5" spacers on each side in the rear to even it out.
Front to rear hub width is always ~3" difference (~1.5" per side). So no matter what rims/tires you use (as long as they are all the same), you need 1.5" spacers on the rear to even it out. You probably didn't compensate for the different rim widths on the stock rims when doing your calculation.
Now that you have lowered the car 4", you will probably be about 70" wide and 67" tall with the roof off. You are good to go!!!
M
Something's screwy then. I drove it around the block, and re measured so the tires could scrub down, we're at 67" height. Before lowering it was just under 72", and I pulled another half inch of preload out, so 3.5" of preload gone, Just under 5" of height gone. That doesn't seem to make sense, does it?
M
It goes into the shop tomorrow to get one of the faulty shocks replaced so I didn't want to screw with all 4 for preload, but that makes sense.
Once I lower the front do you think it drops further? The 67" height is the rear rollbar hoop, it's the highest point. Not sure if the front dropping would affect it much?
It will affect it, geometry says it will. The highest point is about 3/4 back so for every inch you lower the front, it will lower the highest point about 1/4 inch. Lower the front 4 inches and the height should lower 1".
Here is what I would do...
Here is what I would do...
- Lower the rear until the radius rods are parallel to the ground (make sure you have settled the suspension). This will give you the widest stance and make the suspension work at it's best. You don't want to go past parallel if at all possible.
- Measure the ground clearance where the center of the rear tire/axle is.
- Set the front ground clearance 0 to 1/2" higher than the rear.
- Check and make sure any weight shifting didn't mess up the rear. If so, repeat 1-3 until you get it where you want.
- Measure your width (front and rear) and height with stock tires/rims and report back. Make sure you put a straight edge on the tires so you measure the widest part.
M
Okay! I lowered the rear until radius rods are parallel, ended up with 7" of ground clearance measured to the rear tow hook
Lowered the front to same clearance as the rear
Front and rear width were 64 and 1/4" inch with stock wheels and tires
OK, the rear tow hook is about 1/2" higher than the bottom of the skids. You have about 6-1/2' Clearance. The stock is 12.7" so you have lowered the unit about 6" and you should now be about 65 to 66" tall. I would only run about 10 lbs in the tires so that will help too.
Put the wheels/tires you mentioned above and 1.5" spacers on the rear and you will be about 69" wide. 69 is greater than 66, you are good to go!!!
GO ICE RACING!!!
One more thing, raise it until the wheels are off the ground and make sure there is at least a little preload left in the springs. If not, you will either have to preload the springs (only need like one turn) or use limit straps to keep the springs on the perches. If preloading them raises it too much, you will be stuck with limit straps.
