P1000m5 What did you add to/do with your Pioneer 1000 5 today?

Dirtstiffs-1000

Dirtstiffs-1000

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Rock Sliders

If you are going to weld a gusset - wear bar on, keep your heat lower, wire feed speed up and most of your bead, heat and motion on the wear bar when you weld, as the tube frame is unbelievably, super thin.
Disconnect your battery ground before welding.
Good luck.



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ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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Plowed snow today. This thing is a beast. Need to trim my skid plate a little bit to stop the front tire rub. Also adjusted the plow springs a bit stiffer and rotated the bottom of the plow forward to hopefully reduce how often it trips. The linear actuator lift works awesome.

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bumperm

bumperm

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Slowly getting the little electrical things added and changed some. Lower right corner is the dual voltmeter. It uses key-on switched ground to power up with ignition switch. I found this mostly good, but I'd end up turning on the ignition to check battery voltages when I wasn't gonna be using the machine, and that of course skews the reading for the main battery as it's loaded - I want no load voltage. The little black momentary push button switch, shown below the meter, applies a ground to the key-switch ground terminal of the meter, turning it on as long as the button is held down. Still works with key-on, of course.
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The plastic panel, replacing the "Your All Gonna Die" warning placard, is ABS plastic from Amazon Plastic panel the texture is a near match for OEM. Sorry I didn't make this cut out to begin with as it really simplifies some of the wire routing having an this additional access point.

The small round rocker switch, directly below the radio, is a key-switch override for the radio, allowing the radio to function key-off when desired, yet still turn on and off with ignition when this switch is off (a diode isolator is used to keep this power from back-feeding other key-on circuits. The same type switch, shown on the lower panel, provides power to the wireless winch receiver only when it's needed. Keeping power off to the winch receiver, until needed, helps prevent inadvertent operation, and possible damage, due to RFI (radio frequency interference).

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bumperm

bumperm

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Rivet nut tools not expensive, $40 on Amazon, worth considering I think. Also consider there can be problems with corrosion between stainless fasteners and carbon steel - the carbon steel is what corrodes due to galvanic corrosion (that would be the frame).

"Can you use stainless steel screws in steel?
If you put an austenitic stainless like 304 into contact with steel and surround it with an electrolyte like salty snow melt, the steel will have an increased risk of corrosion. In other words the bolt will be fine, but a steel nut or plate will corrode, at a faster rate than if it was a steel bolt."

I'll add, it doesn't take exposure to salty water, though that will greatly accelerate things. Most water will conduct electricity (distilled water is an insulator) impurities in the water allow the water to act as an electrolyte - and that promotes corrosion between dissimilar metals. I think you may be better served skipping the idea of stainless fasteners.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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The bolts are coated (hot dipped), 410 stainless and I use nickel antisieze on the threads when installing.
Corrosion potential will be minimal.

410 Stainless properties

Nickel Antisieze
Clearly, you have a handle on it! Stainless fasteners are often used into carbon steel (for non-structural fastening) on aircraft. Anti-seize is de rigueur in those applications.

That said, I still think rivet nuts provide worthwhile advantages in this type of application, as opposed to threading directly into relatively thin wall tubing. The rivet nut offers greater thread depth and mechanical strength, and usually easy replacement if damaged.
 
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