P1000 Wiring Diagram for 2nd battery, fuse box, isolators, relays, switches. Feedback requested!

PatioDaddyo58

PatioDaddyo58

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I am new to the Honda SxS Club. I hope that I am posting in the correct location. I have a 2016 Honda 1000EPS with factory installed options. I am in the process to installing a TrueAm dual battery isolator. I planned to put in a bussbar and fuse it, but I can see the reason to use a fuse box and fuse it. My question is what is the Stinger isolator for? Isn't the TrueAm an isolator?
The Stinger is a mechanical isolator and the True is electronic.
 
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Gabbas

Gabbas

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Hello, Dron
You don't need both isolator's. The True is electronic and the Stinger is mechanical. Also, I bought the Blue Sea fuse block with 12 positions and it was just too big. Your light bar will come with a relay already built into the wiring harness that comes with it and it will also have an inline 30 amp blade fuse. My winch is connected to the start (main) battery and everything else is connected to the second battery. My radio already has an inline fuse and I added an inline fuse for my bed lights. The winch will come with its own relay as well. At least mine did. If your accessory amp draw is less than your rocker switch rating, you don't really need a relay for that accessory, either. The big important thing a lot of people don't take into consideration is correct wire gauge (size). It is very important to use the correct wire size. Hope I was of some help.
The stinger is ran to the key on power then a + from the stinger to the fuse box. Instead of running all my accessories to the battery for power I am running them to a fuse box.


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The_Old_West

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Hello, Dron
You don't need both isolator's. The True is electronic and the Stinger is mechanical. Also, I bought the Blue Sea fuse block with 12 positions and it was just too big. Your light bar will come with a relay already built into the wiring harness that comes with it and it will also have an inline 30 amp blade fuse. My winch is connected to the start (main) battery and everything else is connected to the second battery. My radio already has an inline fuse and I added an inline fuse for my bed lights. The winch will come with its own relay as well. At least mine did. If your accessory amp draw is less than your rocker switch rating, you don't really need a relay for that accessory, either. The big important thing a lot of people don't take into consideration is correct wire gauge (size). It is very important to use the correct wire size. Hope I was of some help.
 
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The_Old_West

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The Stinger is a mechanical isolator and the True is electronic.
PatioDaddy58,

Thank you for the explaining the difference between the two units. I could not understand the need for two isolators. Actually, when I saw mechanical vs electrical, I understood. Thank you so much.
 
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The_Old_West

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The stinger is ran to the key on power then a + from the stinger to the fuse box. Instead of running all my accessories to the battery for power I am running them to a fuse box.


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Gabbas,

Thank you for your prompt post. I understand the reasoning for the Stinger is more apparent.
 
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The_Old_West

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Thank you for this information. I did not understand the need for the second isolator. With the additional accessories that you mention, I do understand why it is being done. Thank you for including the wiring diagram and other information. I know my question has been answered.
 
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Spoonbill

Spoonbill

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If you look In this pic you can see where it the TRU isolator is mounted. And yes self tapping screws for the Stinger.
Instead of a bus bar I have a fuse panel for all my accessories. View attachment 240847

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Good morning, and thanks for the feedback. a couple for questions to end 2020, please. 1) did you prepare a special plate to install the aux. fuse panel? If so, could you advise the material? 2) Coaul you please send a link to the model # of the Uni filter?? I was going to simply take the OEM and stuff it in the radiator hose, but you set up is much cleaner and would likely assist in dust suppression.
 
Spoonbill

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THanks for continuing the thread on electrical upgrade. Can you please send a link to the dome lights?? I cant seem to locate one with an RGB option vs. The standard White. I could use a red or green glow; I’d prefer a glow vs. a bright led as this is primarily a hunting vehicle
 
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Spoonbill

Spoonbill

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Thanks for everyone’s helpful feedback. I tackled most of the heavy lifting this weekend installing the Stinger relay, busman circuit breaker, the main fuse panel and a few accessories (light bar, horn, dual voltage display and USB charger). The only thing I have left to do to get this section finished is the key on accessory harness. I was going to tap into the fuse box but it just wasn’t going to be clean so I decided to go with the setup from the SXS store. Once I have that wired into the stinger I will be all set and then I can move onto the winch and plow install. As far as the fuse box I ended up going with the 12 circuit blue sea, and as far as mounting location I leveled off the top of the air cleaner and am going to mount it there on some 3M Velcro. The pic below shows the direction that I’m moving in but hopefully at the end I will be able to clean up the wiring and make it look a bit tidier. hopefully it will be helpful for someone to be able to see the wiring diagram, then the picture of where everything is mounted. The only change I made to wiring diagram above was to reverse the position of the stinger and the breaker. So now it goes, 2nd battery into circuit breaker, into stinger, then into the fuse panel. View attachment 233033
This is definitely the cleanest installation I have send to date. Could you advise what type of material you used to mount the auxiliary fuse block and relay?? I would also like to install th circuit breaker to isolate the send battery. Could you send that link as well??
 
Spoonbill

Spoonbill

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This is definitely the cleanest installation I have send to date. Could you advise what type of material you used to mount the auxiliary fuse block and relay?? I would also like to install th circuit breaker to isolate the send battery. Could you send that link as well??
It appears you mounted the stinger in the rear; DId you use some form of self tapping screws? I believe there is metal underneath the green plastics and did not know if that presented a problem.
 
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Coeus

Coeus

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It appears you mounted the stinger in the rear; DId you use some form of self tapping screws? I believe there is metal underneath the green plastics and did not know if that presented a problem.
For now I just used heavy duty waterproof Velcro... so far so good
 

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