P1000 Wiring Diagram for 2nd battery, fuse box, isolators, relays, switches. Feedback requested!

[Dron_jones]

First I wanted to thank everyone in here for the multitude of threads on this and all the helpful replies in them. I think at this point I have read every single post in each one of these. I am posting up below not only to ask for reassurance that I’m on the right track but also because hopefully if I am the below will be helpful to others in the future.

I currently have a 2021 Pioneer 1000-3 LE. I have (or am acquiring) the following items to install:

1. Odyssey PC925 second battery for accessories
2. True Battery isolator kit
3. Stinger 80amp isolator/relay
4. Buss 100amp circuit breaker
5. Blue Sea fuse box with cover
6. V series rocker switches for accessories
7. a relay for each accessory
8. The accessories themselves so far thats (52” light bar, Dome lights, stereo, rear lights, horn etc)

The questions that I have for those more savvy than I:
1. Any major issues in the layout I show below?
2. On the circuit breaker/stinger relay, should I switch their positions and put the circuit breaker first?
3. On the rocker switch, can I jumper pin 6 and 2, and just have the lights come on with the key on position?
4. This is a lot of stuff, in addition To what’s hear I also have a winch I’m installing directly to the accessory battery. I’m a bit worried about space inside the under hood compartment. Has anyone utilized the pre-aircleaner plastic case and just trimmed the fins off of it to make a mounting surface for the fuse box/relays? Part of me was also considering looking for Somewhere in the cab to mount this stuff as well. Open to suggestions
5. I’ve got some pretty low draw devices, usb chargers, dome lights, is it a bad idea to double them up on the fuse block? I only ask because if I can get away with a 6 circuit instead of needing a 12 that would make things a lot cleaner.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[Gabbas]

Shouldn't have a problem fitting everything. I did the gates intake mod to make room for my fuse panel.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

[PatioDaddyo58]

Shouldn't have a problem fitting everything. I did the gates intake mod to make room for my fuse panel. View attachment 232296

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Love that intake mod! That was a great idea.

 

[JoeyL]

1. Any major issues in the layout I show below?

looks good

2. On the circuit breaker/stinger relay, should I switch their positions and put the circuit breaker first?

yes that is correct. breakers are only effective protecting downstream equipment. For example if you somehow shorted the stinger to ground, the breaker wouldnt trip if it is mounted after the stinger.

5. I’ve got some pretty low draw devices, usb chargers, dome lights, is it a bad idea to double them up on the fuse block? I only ask because if I can get away with a 6 circuit instead of needing a 12 that would make things a lot cleaner.

strictly speaking you shouldnt connect more than one if you want really good protection. but practically it shouldnt be an issue. i connected a bunch of my low draw stuff on the same circuit for the same reason. the risk would be if you have a really small wire and a bigger wire (or load) on the same circuit then the small wire and/or load could burn up before the fuse blows.

 

[ToolTime]

You’ve already stated you are low on room, but another option is to send the power from the fuse you are sharing to its own “sub panel” and then out to your remaining accessories you want to power off of one switch to keep them all individually protected. These are pretty smalll and I’ve used them in the past, lasted quite a few years in a trail Jeep. Amazon.com: Bussmann 15600-04-20 Short Base 4 Positions ATC Fuse Panel: Automotive

 

[Dron_jones]

Thanks for everyone’s helpful feedback. I tackled most of the heavy lifting this weekend installing the Stinger relay, busman circuit breaker, the main fuse panel and a few accessories (light bar, horn, dual voltage display and USB charger). The only thing I have left to do to get this section finished is the key on accessory harness. I was going to tap into the fuse box but it just wasn’t going to be clean so I decided to go with the setup from the SXS store. Once I have that wired into the stinger I will be all set and then I can move onto the winch and plow install. As far as the fuse box I ended up going with the 12 circuit blue sea, and as far as mounting location I leveled off the top of the air cleaner and am going to mount it there on some 3M Velcro. The pic below shows the direction that I’m moving in but hopefully at the end I will be able to clean up the wiring and make it look a bit tidier. hopefully it will be helpful for someone to be able to see the wiring diagram, then the picture of where everything is mounted. The only change I made to wiring diagram above was to reverse the position of the stinger and the breaker. So now it goes, 2nd battery into circuit breaker, into stinger, then into the fuse panel.

 

[PatioDaddyo58]

Thanks for everyone’s helpful feedback. I tackled most of the heavy lifting this weekend installing the Stinger relay, busman circuit breaker, the main fuse panel and a few accessories (light bar, horn, dual voltage display and USB charger). The only thing I have left to do to get this section finished is the key on accessory harness. I was going to tap into the fuse box but it just wasn’t going to be clean so I decided to go with the setup from the SXS store. Once I have that wired into the stinger I will be all set and then I can move onto the winch and plow install. As far as the fuse box I ended up going with the 12 circuit blue sea, and as far as mounting location I leveled off the top of the air cleaner and am going to mount it there on some 3M Velcro. The pic below shows the direction that I’m moving in but hopefully at the end I will be able to clean up the wiring and make it look a bit tidier. hopefully it will be helpful for someone to be able to see the wiring diagram, then the picture of where everything is mounted. The only change I made to wiring diagram above was to reverse the position of the stinger and the breaker. So now it goes, 2nd battery into circuit breaker, into stinger, then into the fuse panel. View attachment 233033

That looks nice.

 

[Spoonbill]

Shouldn't have a problem fitting everything. I did the gates intake mod to make room for my fuse panel. View attachment 232296

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

Thanks for sharing the Pic. Do you have a part # for the Gates Hose??

 

[Gabbas]

Thanks for sharing the Pic. Do you have a part # for the Gates Hose??

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRBPIW/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Spoonbill]

Thank you for sharing your plans and final layout.

I do have a couple of questions re: the layout diagram.

• Why are you using toe 100 amp Bus in conjunction with the blue sea fuse box??
• I can not see the info at the top of the drawing re: "....source". Can you detail please??
• It appears the rocker switch is receiving power from the aux fuse box and the source from above. Can you advise on this RO is it a function of the number of lights on the rocker switch.
• Light Bar #1 is receiving power from

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRBPIW/?tag=sxsweb24-20

  
  Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  Thank you Sir!

 

[BrianM]

First I wanted to thank everyone in here for the multitude of threads on this and all the helpful replies in them. I think at this point I have read every single post in each one of these. I am posting up below not only to ask for reassurance that I’m on the right track but also because hopefully if I am the below will be helpful to others in the future.

I currently have a 2021 Pioneer 1000-3 LE. I have (or am acquiring) the following items to install:

1. Odyssey PC925 second battery for accessories
2. True Battery isolator kit
3. Stinger 80amp isolator/relay
4. Buss 100amp circuit breaker
5. Blue Sea fuse box with cover
6. V series rocker switches for accessories
7. a relay for each accessory
8. The accessories themselves so far thats (52” light bar, Dome lights, stereo, rear lights, horn etc)

The questions that I have for those more savvy than I:
1. Any major issues in the layout I show below?
2. On the circuit breaker/stinger relay, should I switch their positions and put the circuit breaker first?
3. On the rocker switch, can I jumper pin 6 and 2, and just have the lights come on with the key on position?
4. This is a lot of stuff, in addition To what’s hear I also have a winch I’m installing directly to the accessory battery. I’m a bit worried about space inside the under hood compartment. Has anyone utilized the pre-aircleaner plastic case and just trimmed the fins off of it to make a mounting surface for the fuse box/relays? Part of me was also considering looking for Somewhere in the cab to mount this stuff as well. Open to suggestions
5. I’ve got some pretty low draw devices, usb chargers, dome lights, is it a bad idea to double them up on the fuse block? I only ask because if I can get away with a 6 circuit instead of needing a 12 that would make things a lot cleaner.

Thanks again everyone!


View attachment 232295

First I wanted to thank everyone in here for the multitude of threads on this and all the helpful replies in them. I think at this point I have read every single post in each one of these. I am posting up below not only to ask for reassurance that I’m on the right track but also because hopefully if I am the below will be helpful to others in the future.

I currently have a 2021 Pioneer 1000-3 LE. I have (or am acquiring) the following items to install:

1. Odyssey PC925 second battery for accessories
2. True Battery isolator kit
3. Stinger 80amp isolator/relay
4. Buss 100amp circuit breaker
5. Blue Sea fuse box with cover
6. V series rocker switches for accessories
7. a relay for each accessory
8. The accessories themselves so far thats (52” light bar, Dome lights, stereo, rear lights, horn etc)

The questions that I have for those more savvy than I:
1. Any major issues in the layout I show below?
2. On the circuit breaker/stinger relay, should I switch their positions and put the circuit breaker first?
3. On the rocker switch, can I jumper pin 6 and 2, and just have the lights come on with the key on position?
4. This is a lot of stuff, in addition To what’s hear I also have a winch I’m installing directly to the accessory battery. I’m a bit worried about space inside the under hood compartment. Has anyone utilized the pre-aircleaner plastic case and just trimmed the fins off of it to make a mounting surface for the fuse box/relays? Part of me was also considering looking for Somewhere in the cab to mount this stuff as well. Open to suggestions
5. I’ve got some pretty low draw devices, usb chargers, dome lights, is it a bad idea to double them up on the fuse block? I only ask because if I can get away with a 6 circuit instead of needing a 12 that would make things a lot cleaner.

Thanks again everyone!


View attachment 232295

I'm just starting to figure out what I need to do a similar thing. I'm not sure I understand why you have a Stinger battery isolator in your picture. Are you just using it for a master relay to keep your accessories from draining the accessory battery when the key is off and not for battery isolation? I thought the Stinger isolator was an alternative to using the True isolator. I'm confused.

 

[Gabbas]

I'm just starting to figure out what I need to do a similar thing. I'm not sure I understand why you have a Stinger battery isolator in your picture. Are you just using it for a master relay to keep your accessories from draining the accessory battery when the key is off and not for battery isolation? I thought the Stinger isolator was an alternative to using the True isolator. I'm confused.

The stinger is used as a key on trigger for powering the fuse panel. The true isolator is for strictly using your second battery for accessories and keeping it separate from the main battery.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Spoonbill]

First I wanted to thank everyone in here for the multitude of threads on this and all the helpful replies in them. I think at this point I have read every single post in each one of these. I am posting up below not only to ask for reassurance that I’m on the right track but also because hopefully if I am the below will be helpful to others in the future.

I currently have a 2021 Pioneer 1000-3 LE. I have (or am acquiring) the following items to install:

1. Odyssey PC925 second battery for accessories
2. True Battery isolator kit
3. Stinger 80amp isolator/relay
4. Buss 100amp circuit breaker
5. Blue Sea fuse box with cover
6. V series rocker switches for accessories
7. a relay for each accessory
8. The accessories themselves so far thats (52” light bar, Dome lights, stereo, rear lights, horn etc)

The questions that I have for those more savvy than I:
1. Any major issues in the layout I show below?
2. On the circuit breaker/stinger relay, should I switch their positions and put the circuit breaker first?
3. On the rocker switch, can I jumper pin 6 and 2, and just have the lights come on with the key on position?
4. This is a lot of stuff, in addition To what’s hear I also have a winch I’m installing directly to the accessory battery. I’m a bit worried about space inside the under hood compartment. Has anyone utilized the pre-aircleaner plastic case and just trimmed the fins off of it to make a mounting surface for the fuse box/relays? Part of me was also considering looking for Somewhere in the cab to mount this stuff as well. Open to suggestions
5. I’ve got some pretty low draw devices, usb chargers, dome lights, is it a bad idea to double them up on the fuse block? I only ask because if I can get away with a 6 circuit instead of needing a 12 that would make things a lot cleaner.

Thanks again everyone!


View attachment 232295

 

[Spoonbill]

D0

That looks nice.

Where is the Tru Isolator Mounted?? Secondly did you use self tapping metal screws to mount the Stinger??
you have a common BUS for the ground wires. I am about to start my wiring this weekend and could use some assistance

 

[Gabbas]

D0

Where is the Tru Isolator Mounted?? Secondly did you use self tapping metal screws to mount the Stinger??
you have a common BUS for the ground wires. I am about to start my wiring this weekend and could use some assistance

If you look In this pic you can see where it the TRU isolator is mounted. And yes self tapping screws for the Stinger.
Instead of a bus bar I have a fuse panel for all my accessories.

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Coeus]

D0

Where is the Tru Isolator Mounted?? Secondly did you use self tapping metal screws to mount the Stinger??
you have a common BUS for the ground wires. I am about to start my wiring this weekend and could use some assistance

For my setup I used outdoor Velcro for the initial layout and has been holding up so far (~2 months)

 

[PatioDaddyo58]

Here's my set up.

 

[The_Old_West]

First I wanted to thank everyone in here for the multitude of threads on this and all the helpful replies in them. I think at this point I have read every single post in each one of these. I am posting up below not only to ask for reassurance that I’m on the right track but also because hopefully if I am the below will be helpful to others in the future.

I currently have a 2021 Pioneer 1000-3 LE. I have (or am acquiring) the following items to install:

1. Odyssey PC925 second battery for accessories
2. True Battery isolator kit
3. Stinger 80amp isolator/relay
4. Buss 100amp circuit breaker
5. Blue Sea fuse box with cover
6. V series rocker switches for accessories
7. a relay for each accessory
8. The accessories themselves so far thats (52” light bar, Dome lights, stereo, rear lights, horn etc)

The questions that I have for those more savvy than I:
1. Any major issues in the layout I show below?
2. On the circuit breaker/stinger relay, should I switch their positions and put the circuit breaker first?
3. On the rocker switch, can I jumper pin 6 and 2, and just have the lights come on with the key on position?
4. This is a lot of stuff, in addition To what’s hear I also have a winch I’m installing directly to the accessory battery. I’m a bit worried about space inside the under hood compartment. Has anyone utilized the pre-aircleaner plastic case and just trimmed the fins off of it to make a mounting surface for the fuse box/relays? Part of me was also considering looking for Somewhere in the cab to mount this stuff as well. Open to suggestions
5. I’ve got some pretty low draw devices, usb chargers, dome lights, is it a bad idea to double them up on the fuse block? I only ask because if I can get away with a 6 circuit instead of needing a 12 that would make things a lot cleaner.

Thanks again everyone!


View attachment 232295

 

[The_Old_West]

I am new to the Honda SxS Club. I hope that I am posting in the correct location. I have a 2016 Honda 1000EPS with factory installed options. I am in the process to installing a TrueAm dual battery isolator. I planned to put in a bussbar and fuse it, but I can see the reason to use a fuse box and fuse it. My question is what is the Stinger isolator for? Isn't the TrueAm an isolator?

 

[PatioDaddyo58]

Hello, Dron
You don't need both isolator's. The True is electronic and the Stinger is mechanical. Also, I bought the Blue Sea fuse block with 12 positions and it was just too big. Your light bar will come with a relay already built into the wiring harness that comes with it and it will also have an inline 30 amp blade fuse. My winch is connected to the start (main) battery and everything else is connected to the second battery. My radio already has an inline fuse and I added an inline fuse for my bed lights. The winch will come with its own relay as well. At least mine did. If your accessory amp draw is less than your rocker switch rating, you don't really need a relay for that accessory, either. The big important thing a lot of people don't take into consideration is correct wire gauge (size). It is very important to use the correct wire size. Hope I was of some help.