P1000 Jackal's P1000-5

Well just as well get this started off. For those of you that followed along on my Pioneer 500 build, I pretty much bought all my accessories before I even had the machine in hand and within 3 weeks of having it home it was all tricked out like I wanted.

Thanks to @HondaProKevin from Honda of Chattanooga I will pick up a Red Pioneer 1000-5 Deluxe on 12/22 just before Christmas.

Stay tuned going to be a long and expensive 2 months.

Read more about this showcase item here...

 

[Admin]

 

[Ned]

I too am looking forward to how you go about wiring you isolator and if it is similar to the one I have. I am hungry for information and I hate it when I write stupid stuff. I have the exact PDM and how I could have counted 6 instead of 5 relayed circuits and not been more careful in writing non-relayed vs fused, well that just wastes everyone's time. I do see how you are using the black/white tap for key on power and the USB power rockers are a great idea. I will likely order one for my machine. Glad you are helpful and patient.

 

[Admin]

 

[JACKAL]

Like the setup. I told you I would be watching you like Santa and it looks like you have been a very busy boy. I went ahead and ordered the PDM and was curious what items you were going to put on the lower 15 amp non-relayed fuses? Something I never thought about when I ordered it but it says in the directions that these items are hot at all times, so I was just curious what you were going to use them for. I'll keep watching.

Those 15 amp fused "hot" wires are your power in wire to your switches. Those 5 wires /switches I will use to control; 1. A pair of 18 watt 4" LED light pods facing forward angled out 45 degrees left and right. 2. A pair of 18 watt 4" LED light pods facing rearward angled out 15 degrees left and right. 3. A 12" 120 watt LED light bar bumper mounted. 4. GPS & (4) USB ports. 5. Interior and exterior accent lighting (Red LED strips)

The pod lights are exactly like @joeymt33 has on his, I thought the way he did it was a very smart & effective. See his post 65-67 & 79 & 80 for lights and results: P1000m5 - Traveller II | Page 4 | The Honda Side by Side Club!

 

[tjoreo]

Those 15 amp fused "hot" wires are your power in wire to your switches. Those 5 wires /switches I will use to control; 1. A pair of 18 watt 4" LED light pods facing forward angled out 45 degrees left and right. 2. A pair of 18 watt 4" LED light pods facing rearward angled out 15 degrees left and right. 3. A 12" 120 watt LED light bar bumper mounted. 4. GPS & (4) USB ports. 5. Interior and exterior accent lighting (Red LED strips)

The pod lights are exactly like @joeymt33 has on his, I thought the way he did it was a very smart & effective. See his post 65-67 & 79 & 80 for lights and results: P1000m5 - Traveller II | Page 4 | The Honda Side by Side Club!

Okay I guess I'm a little confused, so that's why I'm trying to work it out before I work on my own. I assume some of these items like the 120 watt LED and maybe the other pair of LED's will be using the relays. So there switch power will come of the corresponding colored wire the "switch" bundle for those wires???? And I'm guess your interior and exterior lights, and gps won't be going through a relays so they will be hooked up the 15 amp "hot" wires??

Sorry for the inquiry, and I probably should leave you alone so you can work on it and just keep tabs on your progress. The pod lights on the Traveller II look like great lights so I just ordered 2 sets of them. Amazon had them for $20 a pair, so for $10 a light you can't beat that. They look like they work well.

Thanks for your time.

 

[JACKAL]

Okay I guess I'm a little confused, so that's why I'm trying to work it out before I work on my own. I assume some of these items like the 120 watt LED and maybe the other pair of LED's will be using the relays. So there switch power will come of the corresponding colored wire the "switch" bundle for those wires???? And I'm guess your interior and exterior lights, and gps won't be going through a relays so they will be hooked up the 15 amp "hot" wires??

Sorry for the inquiry, and I probably should leave you alone so you can work on it and just keep tabs on your progress. The pod lights on the Traveller II look like great lights so I just ordered 2 sets of them. Amazon had them for $20 a pair, so for $10 a light you can't beat that. They look like they work well.

Thanks for your time.

No, none of the 5 items I listed above will use relays just use only the 15 amp fused "hot" power wired from the busman PDM go directly into the switch "power in" spade of the switch and the accessory Pod light, GPS etc. wire goes from the accessory out spade terminal of the switch, flip switch item comes on.

The five 30 amp fused with 35 amp relays go to the big stuff, the 5 color coded small 14 gauge wires tagged "switches" on the wire loom are not hot and go to the accessory out spade of the switch just the opposite of the above. The other half the heavy 10 gauge wires marked "accessory" go straight to the big items these wires are only powered on when the switch is on that charges the relay that send power from the PDM relay to the heavy gauge wire and accessory. The power for these switches come from the ignition switch accessory black/white wire from the Honda fuse block, they only put power to the relay when the switch is on.

When I say big stuff I am referring to 280 watt stereo, 250- 500 watt 20" to 50" LED light bars, etc. things that usually draw 20 amps + that need a heavier power source / wiring to handle. The relay lets you run shorter runs of the heavy wire straight from the relay to the light, stereo etc., while turning it on / off using a low draw power source from a switch run by smaller wiring. Anything that I see will draw 150 watt+ will go through a relay, 120 watt and under can usually run with only a fused line.

A rule of thumb I use beside power usage in watts / amp is if the item comes from factory with 14/16 gauge and smaller wires a fuse can handle it depending on power draw and an item that comes with 12/10 gauge and heavier will almost always need a relay or a heavy duty switch. Typical rocker switches are designed for 20 amp max - running only 15 amp fused lines through them eliminates the chance of shorting out or overloading the switch.

 

[tjoreo]

Thank you very much for the clarification. It makes more sense now. I just figured your current LED's would be on the relays, but 150 rule makes perfect sense. I really haven't messed much with the led lights, but have a few sets of lights on my truck with some of the 55w and 100w H3 bulbs, so I have been defiantly running them through the relay. I have to take a step back and think about the technology of the led's and how little amps they draw to produce more light then my H3 bulbs. Thanks for the clarification on the big vs little stuff. Proceed on, and I am in suspense for the "BIG" items.

 

[JACKAL]

Well my Battery Isolator came in along with my remaining switches and 139db air horn

Got everything under hood wired up and set like I wanted. Ran out of time to run wire to lights and switches thanks to honey do jobs. amazing when you are off the things they can dream up for you to do like I don't have MY priorities

So here is the before and after of under to hood:

 

[joeymt33]

Thanks for this post! I've been wanting a horn but forgot about it. Actually, no thanks for this post. I've already cut my switch panel. Oh well, I'll put it at the bottom of the list.

 

[JACKAL]

Thanks for this post! I've been wanting a horn but forgot about it. Actually, no thanks for this post. I've already cut my switch panel. Oh well, I'll put it at the bottom of the list.

Here is the one I got, must be serious came with its own 30 amp relay, 139 Db Ha!

Amazon.com: SUPER LOUD Stebel Nautilus Compact Twin Air Horn; Universal for Cars, Trucks, Boats, ATVS, Motorcycles and Scooters: Automotive

That's about 100% of actual size. Even has an intake vent tube adapter to "SNORKLE" it LMAO

 

[joeymt33]

That's a crazy horn. Just read about it. Thanks for posting

 

[JACKAL]

Well got a lot done today mostly not too visible have all my wiring ran and hooked up to my temporary switch panel. Got the Pod lights mounted and working on all 4 corners angled out, Mounted the air horn and unlike Honda didn't disassemble the whole machine only one bolt and a 2" bracket using the bottom bolt from the angled fender support bar where it bolts the the main frame. nestled on right side of radiator tucked in and protected by the fender and grille, had to try it out jeez that thing is LOUD ,

Still waiting on my 40" 32000 lumen light bar for front, I will bolt it to the bottom of the metal frame of the glass windshield about 2" up off the hood. It should be here Wednesday along with my clamps to mount my 12" 10,000 lumen light bar underneath the top roll cage cross member facing backwards.

Here is my lighted switches setup thus far:

Sasquatch lights - front pods angled out 45 degrees because that's where the wookies hide just outta sight.
Zombie Targeting System - rear pod light angled out because that's where the braineaters come at you from in your blind spot.
The Finger - 12" 120 watt 10K lumen light bar facing back for "that guy" that doesn't have any courtesy and because I can't shoot them.
Burn Ya Bastard - 40" 400 watt 32K lumen light bar facing forward because I'm blind at night (might be the sunglasses) and may want to get a tan in the process.
The others self explanatory

 

[joeymt33]

Cool switch selection! Especially the the finger switch.

 

[JACKAL]

Cool switch selection! Especially the the finger switch.

Thanks, trying to have a little fun with it Once I get my two light bars bolted on I will snap some more pics, all my wiring is done and hot so 30 minutes of wrenching they will be ready for prime time. I misplaced my RAM mount for my GPS or would have it done already, going to have to pick up tools and rearrange the shop to find it I guess.

I got around to adjusting my headlights jeeez I think they are set up for UFO spotting, I thought I was going to run out of threads on the adjusting bolt just to get them level on DIM, still even the Hi beam show up higher than I think they should still. Maybe its just me. I am dog gone happy with how bright they are compared to the P500 laterns.

Still debating on this overhead stereo system, dunno why I hesitate I know I'm going to get it lol.
MUDSYS46 Bluetooth Overhead Audio System

And finally the tires and wheels in a few weeks should wrap things up by the first week of Feb once my (6) rocker switch holders show up I can mount all 12 rockers not just the 8.

 

[d_b]

That's a great horn. I run those on my motorcycles.

 

[Kenjones21]

where did you get the gang switch blanks at? I'm needing 4 and the only place I've found them is on ebay but they are coming from China and says should arrive in 30 days

 

[JACKAL]

where did you get the gang switch blanks at? I'm needing 4 and the only place I've found them is on ebay but they are coming from China and says should arrive in 30 days

Amazon STV performance same place I got my switches. Amazon.com: STV Motorsports® Rocker Switch Panel Housing Kit - Plastic switch holder (4PCS): Automotive

 

[JACKAL]

Here is the one I got, must be serious came with its own 30 amp relay, 139 Db Ha!

Amazon.com: SUPER LOUD Stebel Nautilus Compact Twin Air Horn; Universal for Cars, Trucks, Boats, ATVS, Motorcycles and Scooters: Automotive

That's about 100% of actual size. Even has an intake vent tube adapter to "SNORKLE" it LMAO

This is where I ended up mounting the horn, much easier than OEM, $300 cheaper than OEM, and 6X louder than OEM. Minor project a success.

 

[Hondasxs]

What about mud. Seems in a fairly vulnerable location?

 

[JACKAL]

Got my temporary dash plate all setup with GPS and took it for a test run to make sure everything held tight. Happy with it for being a temp solution until final rockers gangs arrive.

Front view with Sasquatch lights on

Rear view with Zombie Lights on

 

[JACKAL]

What about mud. Seems in a fairly vulnerable location?

I dunno, I probably will never get it that deep even so look closely at the picture its minimally 2 inches above the bottom of the radiator which I would be more concerned about packing with mud. Both the horn and radiator are protected equally by the grill and black plastic shroud. So im not concerned with it's location. I didn't buy the P1K to use as a submarine in mud pits. I'll leave that to the youthful to wallow in ignorant bliss.

 

[JACKAL]

Cleaning up the shop had both of the Pioneers out for a little side by side comparison. For as much bigger the P1K is than the P500 it sure handles fairly nimble. Got to eyeballing the Strong Made bumper on my P500 and decided to go with the same on my P1K and mount the winch up high as well. Seen Strong Made also has a lift kit for a decent price, went ahead and ordered both this evening and will go ahead with 28 x 10x 14 Roctane XD.