Front spring spacers

spifyd

spifyd

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I've added so much crap to the bike I started losing ground clearance. So I made some springs spacers for the front springs there Just 1 1/2schedule 40 water pipe cut to whatever one you want . I went 3/4 "
The pipe is exactly the right size
 

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slowdryrider

slowdryrider

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So how much clearance did you gain by doing this.Did it make the ride a bit rougher.thanks.
 
Hondasxs

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wooh. I'm off to lowes to buy some pipe.
3/4 may be just what is needed to help the front from bottom'ing out.
Great find there.
 
spifyd

spifyd

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I gained an inch with three quarter inch spacer. Not much difference in ride.the best ride inprovement was un hooking the sway bar. But then again the only place ive been is on the skider trails out behind the house. Im hopping to get away next weekend,a club up north is having a 3 day ride..including a nigt ride with a bonfire and cookout.
I will bring the swaybar links wth me just incase.
 
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tbocfo

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New owner, first 2 miles with 2 passengers in a 700-4 I bottomed out the front. I saw your pictures of the spring spacer and was wondering how to install them? Thanks for the help.
 
slowdryrider

slowdryrider

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I've installed 3/4" spacer's on mine as well,sure stops almost all the bottoming out on mine as well. To install them you do need to pull the shock off the machine.You'll need a spring compressor to compress the spring's to beable to take the spring off the shock,plus to reinstall the spring back onto the shock. The spacer is pretty straight forward once you cut the pipe to 3/4" long slip the pipe over the shock.Simple as that.
 
scott

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What size pipe are ya'll using? Also how do you get the pipe over the lip Where the metal ring sits holding the spring. Do you take off the whole spring then put pipe on than put spring back on. please help really want to try this.
 
slowdryrider

slowdryrider

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scott said:
What size pipe are ya'll using? Also how do you get the pipe over the lip Where the metal ring sits holding the spring. Do you take off the whole spring then put pipe on than put spring back on. please help really want to try this.


As mentioned at the start it's 1 1/2" water pipe ID. Once you have the spring removed from the shock [spring compressor required] you remove the metal ring ,I had to tap mine up with a hammer it doesn't take that much force. Same as when you put the pipe on you need to tap it down into place as well.
 
hurld

hurld

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I used 1 1/2" galv steel pipe on mine. If you don't have a spring compressor you can use 4 small ratchet straps (the ones without hooks) to compress the spring and remove the top washer & spring.

Polaris RZR Spring Replacement - Super ATV: http://youtu.be/XfMBSZCI5Io
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Spify how long did it take with a spring compressor?

How much instability did removing the sway links cause?
 
spifyd

spifyd

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bout 20 minutes each with a compressor I put them in the press. I am running about a 5/8 spacer. not quite enough. I would like to hare what others have run and how its working out. I have been looking at coil over spring adjusters. I need to do some measuring.

sway bar removal is a must on slow bumpy trails. I ran 225 miles up north last week end many miles of 35 mph gravel roads. sliding though the corners. I hooked it back up for that. I would have had a lot of body roll with out. the rear dog house is really high weight.
I may make some kind of link with a removable pin so I can have the best of both worlds. I did replace the lower locking nuts with regular nuts so a 17 mm wrench and 5 minutes is all it takes to convert back and forth. I wire tie the bar to the frame when it on hooked.
 
ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Spiffy, you think a ⅞" or 1" would be better? Let me know what you find on the adjusters. My P4 is a 45-60 min round trip drive from me right now, so it's not as easy to tinker and tweak at the moment.

Do you think a sway bar disconnect link off a old Jeep or Toyota would work?
 
slowdryrider

slowdryrider

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spifyd said:
I am running about a 5/8 spacer. not quite enough. I would like to hare what others have run and how its working out. .


I made mine 3/4" and it seems to be good.It'll bottom out very seldom unless to hit a really good dip at a good clip.Just to let you know thats with the doors on there about 45 lbs each.Taking the doors off for summer sure has changed how it rides.I've also got a homemade lift on mine that move's the spring mount point a bit closer to the tire so it'll give it a bit stiffer ride compared to moving away from the tire.accessories-and-modifications-f48/homemade-front-lift-t935.html
 
spifyd

spifyd

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[Spiffy, you think a ⅞" or 1" would be better? Let me know what you find on the adjusters. My P4 is a 45-60 min round trip drive from me right now, so it's not as easy to tinker and tweak at the moment. *]

I would start with 3/4. I think that is going to be the hot set up. I have full cab plow frame and winch on the front. if I was running a striped rig 5/8 would probably be enough. a lot of it depends on driving habits. I only start bottoming wen trying to push it in the rough terrain.
 
ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Ok, mine is going to be what you described minus the plow.

I'll prob start with ¾.
 
Hondasxs

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Humm. That would make the front adjustable! But not sure about the price compared to a $5 pipe.
 
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