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Stockthats cold still. whats the ride height? what tire size?
Stockthats cold still. whats the ride height? what tire size?
Raise the ride height. You’re likely putting the shock into bottom out control. Raise it up about 3/4”-1 1/2” see if that helps you out.Stock
Is that apropos to the non LV only?Raise the ride height. You’re likely putting the shock into bottom out control. Raise it up about 3/4”-1 1/2” see if that helps you out.
I don't have experience to the live valve. I do know they ride low also. and the shock has very little travel till it's in bottom out control mode.Is that apropos to the non LV only?
Raise the ride height. You’re likely putting the shock into bottom out control. Raise it up about 3/4”-1 1/2” see if that helps you out.
Do you happen to know if the live valve is adjustable that way...?If I remember correctly the X has 6.5-7 inches (might be off on that) of shock shaft travel. You want to be around 50- 60% for the optimal spot. If your preference is higher or lower that's fine to a degree but to high puts the axel at a degree that isn't as good on its life expectancy. I set my up with a slight down angle in the rear and then put the front at 3/4-1 inch higher and it's been perfect for me.
Thank you for the information....😊I don't have experience to the live valve. I do know they ride low also. and the shock has very little travel till it's in bottom out control mode.
one way to tell, if it's riding rough, and you look at the lower part of the shock shaft by the bump stop and it's clean, you're gettign full shock travel. if its dirty you are not and you likely need valving or to help offset that adjust the ride height. helps give more travel before the shock in in bottom out control mode.
Inside the shock the piston will move into a cone looking thing that basically hydro locks the shocks. that starts with about 3/4-1" of shock shaft showing before the shock hits the bumpers. Alternatively you can open the shocks up and drill very small hole in the cone to bleed off pressure.
Temp wise you won't see shock fade till you are above 300F. if you can still touch the shock body it's not even close to shock fade.
Yes to my understanding to a degree. I do not have a live valve but did talk to the guy that did my suspension about it some. The live valve is just actively (live) changing the valving through computerized inputs constantly. Most of the adjustments I am talking about with the springs are not big changes to that. If you compress them a lot to raise the machines ground clearance than you will be changing the rate it is sitting at and I think that would not ride as good and you would want to have someone that knows what they are doing set you up with new springs. If I had a live valve I would set it up the same way mine is now....Do you happen to know if the live valve is adjustable that way...?
Thank you sir....😎Yes to my understanding to a degree. I do not have a live valve but did talk to the guy that did my suspension about it some. The live valve is just actively (live) changing the valving through computerized inputs constantly. Most of the adjustments I am talking about with the springs are not big changes to that. If you compress them a lot to raise the machines ground clearance than you will be changing the rate it is sitting at and I think that would not ride as good and you would want to have someone that knows what they are doing set you up with new springs. If I had a live valve I would set it up the same way mine is now....
middle of shock body, or top just below the cap. that is where the most heat is generated. a shocks function ito to turn mechanical force into heat. so them getting hot is normal. over about 310 and you have issues. i've only ever seen that high while racing the baja.Sorry, I should have clarified, shock temps are off the reservoir, correct?
middle of shock body, or top just below the cap. that is where the most heat is generated. a shocks function ito to turn mechanical force into heat. so them getting hot is normal. over about 310 and you have issues. i've only ever seen that high while racing the baja.
correct. not a lot of oil moves in and outt of the reservoir. most of the heat is in the body it's self.I measured on the external reservoir. By shock body you're talking about the threaded body, correct?
I will retest this weekcorrect. not a lot of oil moves in and outt of the reservoir. most of the heat is in the body it's self.
The oil viscosity lessens when they warm up. You really want to do any shock turning after they have warmed up. My YXZ and KRX are the same way except they feel better/softer after warming up. If it is getting rougher, you may want to add some preload or stiffen the adjustment if you can and see how it does. You might just be bottoming the shock more when it heats up. I haven't ever looked to see if the Talon has bottom out control in the rear shocks but if it does, you don't want your ride height too low or you will be in the BOC stage too soon and often and be really stiff in that zone.The more testing I do and the more I learn the more it confuses me. So I beat the hell out of it today, shock temps really didn't go over 200f. However, after about a half hour it once again would feel "faded" where it would lose any compliance it had, and basically feel like it had no suspension travel as well.
Before leaving I took a bit of preload out of the front, which helped a LOT, but again, only for about the first half hour. After a few hours of riding we took an hour break for a BBQ, and the shocks cooled to ambient temp. For about a half hour, they worked great, then became super stiff and un-compliant again. I was certain this was overheating, but apparently 200f isn't even close. I don't get it.