P1000 2022 Trail headlights quit

[NorthernJoe]

I was driving home the other night and my headlights quit. I managed to get home (slowly) using the flashlight on my phone.
Here is what Iv'e done so far
15amp headlight fuse is blown, after a quick visual I replace the fuse and as expected it blew right away
Carefully check for a pinched/ worn wire non found
I unplugged the harness by the fuse box and check for shorts, none found
with the harness unplugged I try a new fuse and it does not blow
I remove the light relay fuse , plug everything in and the 15amp fuse hold, obviously no lights
put everything back together and guess what the lights come on!, the light switch was set to high beam when the key was turned on, as soon as I switched to low beam the fuse blew again.
with two good fuses installed, and all wires plugged in, but the bulbs are removed, the fuse holds
now what?? can the bulb(s) be bad? its a stock bulb.
does the current the bulb draws on low cause something to happen? High works and should draw more current?? Where is the headlight relay? could that be the issue? )problem with high working is you have to switch past low and the fuse pops right away)
99% of my 300 kms have been daytime driving without headlights. With daylight savings (or losing?) I need headlights....

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Joe

 

[CID]

I was driving home the other night and my headlights quit. I managed to get home (slowly) using the flashlight on my phone.
Here is what Iv'e done so far
15amp headlight fuse is blown, after a quick visual I replace the fuse and as expected it blew right away
Carefully check for a pinched/ worn wire non found
I unplugged the harness by the fuse box and check for shorts, none found
with the harness unplugged I try a new fuse and it does not blow
I remove the light relay fuse , plug everything in and the 15amp fuse hold, obviously no lights
put everything back together and guess what the lights come on!, the light switch was set to high beam when the key was turned on, as soon as I switched to low beam the fuse blew again.
with two good fuses installed, and all wires plugged in, but the bulbs are removed, the fuse holds
now what?? can the bulb(s) be bad? its a stock bulb.
does the current the bulb draws on low cause something to happen? High works and should draw more current?? Where is the headlight relay? could that be the issue? )problem with high working is you have to switch past low and the fuse pops right away)
99% of my 300 kms have been daytime driving without headlights. With daylight savings (or losing?) I need headlights....

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Joe

Can’t help much but on a Talon, I leave the HL switch on all the time. I’d guess that the P1K is the same so, in a pinch, you can put your HLs on high and leave them on until you can figure out the problem.

Pull the bulbs, replace the fuse(s) and replace the bulbs one at a time to see if it’s one bulb. On a filament bulb, a broken element ‘could’ short to the ground side which would blow fuses.

 

[bumperm]

First, make sure the circuit is fused with the correct size fuse. What worked for last years LEDs may not work for this years incandescent bulbs which take more current (just guessing). It could also be a defective bulb socket that shorts itself out when a bulb is inserted, or could be incorrect wiring to a bulb socket.

Not the case here, but you can make a tester to locate otherwise exasperating intermittent short/s without blowing a bunch of fuses.. This tester allows you to yank, pull and wiggle things to expose an intermittent short. When the circuit is shorted, the test light comes on with no damage.

To make this tester, replace the fuse with a fuse connector kit like this: Fuse Tester Next connect a 12 volt lamp across the fuse connector's terminals - I made a test lamp from an automotive bulb, such as a tail light bulb, by soldering two wires to the bulb base, but you can buy 12 volt test lamps instead. Now with the test lamp replacing the fuse, you can get to work, when the circuit is shorted, the lamp lights - no blown fuses.

 

[NorthernJoe]

First, make sure the circuit is fused with the correct size fuse. What worked for last years LEDs may not work for this years incandescent bulbs which take more current (just guessing). It could also be a defective bulb socket that shorts itself out when a bulb is inserted, or could be incorrect wiring to a bulb socket.

Not the case here, but you can make a tester to locate otherwise exasperating intermittent short/s without blowing a bunch of fuses.. This tester allows you to yank, pull and wiggle things to expose an intermittent short. When the circuit is shorted, the test light comes on with no damage.

To make this tester, replace the fuse with a fuse connector kit like this: Fuse Tester Next connect a 12 volt lamp across the fuse connector's terminals - I made a test lamp from an automotive bulb, such as a tail light bulb, by soldering two wires to the bulb base, but you can buy 12 volt test lamps instead. Now with the test lamp replacing the fuse, you can get to work, when the circuit is shorted, the lamp lights - no blown fuses.

Excellent idea, I'll do some further checking once I build the "tester" and have some time to dig abit.
I love this community and the willingness to share
Two heads are better than one!

 

[Remington]

willingness to share
Two heads are better than one!

NoHomo right?

 

[NorthernJoe]

So i thought I would do an update on the headlight situation . I made a "test light" as per Bumperm's Genius idea. Unfortunately i missed the part about using an incandescent bulb. I used an LED which is either always on or always off depending on how you plug it in. so I did it old school with an ohm meter and visual inspection. After reading a post about defective (cheap chinese s***) tail lights I did a closer inspection of the headlight bulbs, sure enough the passenger low beam was shorted! I upgraded to LED headlight bulbs and everything is as it should have been

 

[ODAMO]

Cheap chinese S#$T costs us a lot of time and money.

 

[Adam490]

So i thought I would do an update on the headlight situation . I made a "test light" as per Bumperm's Genius idea. Unfortunately i missed the part about using an incandescent bulb. I used an LED which is either always on or always off depending on how you plug it in. so I did it old school with an ohm meter and visual inspection. After reading a post about defective (cheap chinese s***) tail lights I did a closer inspection of the headlight bulbs, sure enough the passenger low beam was shorted! I upgraded to LED headlight bulbs and everything is as it should have beenView attachment 365477

Glad you got it figured out and posted up the resolution.

Unfortunately, I think we'll see a lot more like this on anything produced in the last couple years.

 

[NorthernJoe]

Cheap chinese S#$T costs us a lot of time and money.

funny how there is nothing cheap about it!

I saw this somewhere and thought it was a great marketing idea