P1000 Vacant Rocker Switch on 2022 Trail Edition

ARDilbert

ARDilbert

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My 2022 Trail Edition has a factory installed oversized rocker switch that apparently does not control anything on the machine. I have traced the wiring on the backside and it is wired into a harness but I can’t tell from there where it goes or how to utilize the switch for something else. I have not been able to find any documentation or schematics that shows the intended use or how to access it from the wiring harness. Has anyone else used this switch for anything? Also, I have ordered a warning label replacement switch panel from Crossroads to add a few switch options, but noticed that on my model there appears to be 4 mounting brackets on the backside of the warning plate that wiring harnesses are attached to. Curious if anyone has replaced the warning label with a switch panel and had any helpful insight as to what to do and not to do.

Thanks
Randy
 
ARDilbert

ARDilbert

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blue tape under the hood, you will find the end.
The white wire loop is just a dummy plug for it.
The switch line is just that, a single switched line. its kinda of useless in its current form.
THANK-YOU!! I will pull it back in the garage this week and trace it down. Everything is bundled and hard to get to. Hoping that removing the warning label and inserting a removable switch panel will provide some much needed access to the back of the dash.
Thanks again for the reply.
Randy
 
Smitty335

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THANK-YOU!! I will pull it back in the garage this week and trace it down. Everything is bundled and hard to get to. Hoping that removing the warning label and inserting a removable switch panel will provide some much needed access to the back of the dash.
Thanks again for the reply.
Randy
I don't know if Honda is still glueing and riveting the label. If they're still glueing, a heat gun will come in handy.
 
Hondasxs

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THANK-YOU!! I will pull it back in the garage this week and trace it down. Everything is bundled and hard to get to. Hoping that removing the warning label and inserting a removable switch panel will provide some much needed access to the back of the dash.
Thanks again for the reply.
Randy
???
Just untape the blue tape. No need to go digging.
 
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bumperm

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Don't know how much is changed from 21 to 22. My 21 SE panel had the large "You're all gonna die" warning panel. Drilled out the rivets to yank that, then cut an exploratory hole in the middle to see what obstructions lay beneath (nothing that couldn't be moved aside.

20210826 203158


Should of done this early on, as it makes routing wires for stuff, other than what will eventually go in the new panel space, much easier.

20210826 210127


20211217 210936
 
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P

packer58

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Don't know how much is changed from 21 to 22. My 21 SE panel had the large "You're all gonna die" warning panel. Drilled out the rivets to yank that, then cut an exploratory hole in the middle to see what obstructions lay beneath (nothing that couldn't be moved aside.

View attachment 365230

Should of done this early on, as it makes routing wires for stuff, other than what will eventually go in the new panel space, much easier.

View attachment 365232

View attachment 365233
Looking at the bottom pic, i like those angled switches. can a guy just buy the angle insert or is it part of the switch plate ??
 
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Hondasxs

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bumperm

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Looking at the bottom pic, i like those angled switches. can a guy just buy the angle insert or is it part of the switch plate ??

No, it's a separate insert that covers what would be a storage cubby. On the 21 SE, that plate is a stock part and comes with one switch mounted for the included, but rather crappy, bumper mounted light bar. (I say crappy as it's basically a spot light with very little peripheral lighting, so unless you have a few hundred yards of straight road ahead - useless).

Don't know the part number for the little panel, but the Honda dealer should be able to find it.
 
NorthernJoe

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My 2022 Trail Edition has a factory installed oversized rocker switch that apparently does not control anything on the machine. I have traced the wiring on the backside and it is wired into a harness but I can’t tell from there where it goes or how to utilize the switch for something else. I have not been able to find any documentation or schematics that shows the intended use or how to access it from the wiring harness. Has anyone else used this switch for anything? Also, I have ordered a warning label replacement switch panel from Crossroads to add a few switch options, but noticed that on my model there appears to be 4 mounting brackets on the backside of the warning plate that wiring harnesses are attached to. Curious if anyone has replaced the warning label with a switch panel and had any helpful insight as to what to do and not to do.

Thanks
Randy
Randy,

I am trying to do the same thing as you are. As per Bumperm's suggestion I have removed the "you shall surely die"plate and cut out the dash behind the warning label here is a picture of what you will find. I had the heater installed, so I have the accessory fuse panel installed. I will post pictures as I go. Let me know where you are at, Maybe we can figure this out together
IMG 8070

Here are the dash replacement panels I made to go in
IMG 8071
 
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ARDilbert

ARDilbert

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Randy,

I am trying to do the same thing as you are. As per Bumperm's suggestion I have removed the "you shall surely die"plate and cut out the dash behind the warning label here is a picture of what you will find. I had the heater installed, so I have the accessory fuse panel installed. I will post pictures as I go. Let me know where you are at, Maybe we can figure this out togetherView attachment 365472
Here are the dash replacement panels I made to go in
View attachment 365473

What did you use to cut the panel out with? because of the in-dash storage I can barely see the area from under the hood and I do know that there are 3 or 4 mounts that are holding wiring harnesses. I will have to be very careful NOT to cut any of those when cutting the new hole for my switch panel. I ended up ordering a precut panel from crossroads that had a couple different switch configurations or you could order a custom configuration. It was like $25 bucks so I opted to do that instead of making my own. I may do that later depending on the quality of what I bought. It will be delivered this weekend and I'll dig into it then. I'll try to take some pictures of the wire harness brackets and what the final product looks like. My dash looks just like yours. I noticed several others did not have the in-dash storage and it took a minute to find a blank that fit my model. Thanks for the reply and the pics.
 
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NorthernJoe

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Randy,

I cut out the panel with a multi tool. You could also use an exacto knife with the blade set out 1/4" Those 4 mounts hold wires not associated with the switches. the black red wire is ignition on power Pin 2 on the switch connector blocks is fed ignition on power. Do you have the accessory fuse panel? is so, it looks like the switch output ends up as a fused output. If not then I'm guessing that there is no power fed to the switch and the switch wires are buried in the blue tape bundle. I don't see a blue tape bundle on mine. Maybe that was removed when the accessory fuse block was put in by the dealer

Joe
 
NorthernJoe

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On the 22 Trail there is one wire taped to the back of the big bundle of wires. It is more visible from the hole you cut behind the "you shall surely die" sign Once you get the blue tape removed, push the wire into the engine compartment and remove the plug with the white wire loop. cut the loop and connect one side to fused power and the other side to your accessory. (light bar, under seat fan ect)
IMG 8076
IMG 8077
 
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Hondasxs

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one wire taped to the back of the big bundle of wires. It is more visible from the hole you cut behind the "you shall surely die" sign
Actually, for those without the new 2022 fuse box mount. it can easily be accessed from under the hood. I see the fuse block mount is blocking its view so I guess it wasn't visible. lol.

Reminder, this switch is only rated for 3 amp passthrough load. I recommend small items like dome lights, USB ports, maybe a cheap set of cubes or whips, or as a trigger source for a relay.

I don't see a blue tape bundle on mine. Maybe that was removed when the accessory fuse block was put in by the dealer
If you are speaking about the blue tape that is supposed to be above the primary battery. Yes, it was removed as I see you have the new 2022 fuse block which requires that connector for the ACC trigger source.
 
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NorthernJoe

NorthernJoe

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Actually, for those without the new 2022 fuse box mount. it can easily be accessed from under the hood. I see the fuse block mount is blocking its view so I guess it wasn't visible. lol.

Reminder, this switch is only rated for 3 amp passthrough load. I recommend small items like dome lights, USB ports, maybe a cheap set of cubes or whips, or as a trigger source for a relay.


If you are speaking about the blue tape that is supposed to be above the primary battery. Yes, it was removed as I see you have the new 2022 fuse block which requires that connector for the ACC trigger source.
Thanks for your input. It's really simple, Once you figure it out!
 
bumperm

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What did you use to cut the panel out with? because of the in-dash storage I can barely see the area from under the hood and I do know that there are 3 or 4 mounts that are holding wiring harnesses. I will have to be very careful NOT to cut any of those when cutting the new hole for my switch panel. I ended up ordering a precut panel from crossroads that had a couple different switch configurations or you could order a custom configuration. It was like $25 bucks so I opted to do that instead of making my own. I may do that later depending on the quality of what I bought. It will be delivered this weekend and I'll dig into it then. I'll try to take some pictures of the wire harness brackets and what the final product looks like. My dash looks just like yours. I noticed several others did not have the in-dash storage and it took a minute to find a blank that fit my model. Thanks for the reply and the pics.

An oscillating multi-tool is best, I think, as it allows a high degree of precision, plunge cutting, great depth control, doesn't tend to melt plastic (as would a cutting blade in an angle grinder) and is just dang nice to have around the shop. Things like cutting the rectangular hole for a new rocker switch become a piece-of-cake.

Buy one . . . you won't be sorry. I've standardized on Makita for all my battery powered tools, so they can all use the same style battery, but there are other good brands as well.
 
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ARDilbert

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Makita is my go to for all my battery and power tools usually. Framed houses all through college and used nothing but Makita. 30 years later and I still have my corded tools and table saw. Good stuff.
Thanks for the info!!
 
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