What second battery are you guys running for the dual setup? I am going to install a 2nd battery and an isolater, I just didnt know what kind of battery I should get.
I am running a cheaper 26 amp/hr battery. It's working beautifully but of course to know the value, I will have to see how long it lasts. The reason for a second battery for me is so I can run lights without the engine for working and playing at night. I have my PDM and winch connected to it so I will see over time how it does. About 40 bucks.I chose the True UTV dual battery kit for this applicaiton.
Have any pictures or the size number of the batt? I'm trying to find something shorter than an oddesey 925.I used a Delka agm battery it fits right in. I also used the true isolator with voltage meters
Sorry I ment deka battery it's a ETX16 extreme powersports battery. I took a picture of those large orange letters and numbers on top of the factory battery and took it to the battery shop and the found an exact match. If your using a isolator it's recommended to use the same type age and size of the starter battery. It needs to be a powersports battery because they have more padding that let's it be able to vibrate bounce and shakeHave any pictures or the size number of the batt? I'm trying to find something shorter than an oddesey 925.
Have any pictures or the size number of the batt? I'm trying to find something shorter than an oddesey 925.
Do you have any pictures of the install?
I don't have a picture but it's a easy clean install. Run a positive cable from the starter battery to the isolator then from the isolator to the accessory battery it will be marked.Then run a negative cable from negative to negative of each battery. The isolator will have a small ground wire so I just grounded it to the accessory negative side. I used the TRUE brand isolator. I comes with extremely heavy duty 3m Velcro I used to mount the isolator on the inside lip ( windshield) side of the battery. Then zip tie the wires. Now I did notice that the true isolator kits positive battery cable was not long enough to reach so I swapped that cable with the winch power cable ( it's the same gauge) but you can also get an cable at any auto store. It is normal for the blue led light on the isolator to have a couple second delay before it comes on when you start the motor. And a few minutes delay before it goes off. Light on it's charging light off batteries are separated.Do you have any pictures of the install?
I don't have a picture but it's a easy clean install. Run a positive cable from the starter battery to the isolator then from the isolator to the accessory battery it will be marked.Then run a negative cable from negative to negative of each battery. The isolator will have a small ground wire so I just grounded it to the accessory negative side. I used the TRUE brand isolator. I comes with extremely heavy duty 3m Velcro I used to mount the isolator on the inside lip ( windshield) side of the battery. Then zip tie the wires. Now I did notice that the true isolator kits positive battery cable was not long enough to reach so I swapped that cable with the winch power cable ( it's the same gauge) but you can also get an cable at any auto store. It is normal for the blue led light on the isolator to have a couple second delay before it comes on when you start the motor. And a few minutes delay before it goes off. Light on it's charging light off batteries are separated.
It is charged from the stator/alternator. They are both charged at the same time. When fully charged they will separate. The isolator is one way current so if you have lights stereo winch cb etc going without the motor on you are only pulling off battery 2 if it drains you will still have full charge on the main to start the motor. The winch will pull the most off the battery all the other stuff will take forever to drain the battery. But if you can tell battery 2 is running low just crank up the motorThis is good info, but I have a couple of questions.
Is the accessory battery charged from the alternator or by the main battery?
The isolator is used to keep the accessories/accessory battery from draining the main battery, correct?
Thanks
It might be too big to find a good place to mount it. But if so it should work fine. I like the true brand because the light lets you know it's workingThank you, confirms from experience, what I have been reading.
What does everyone think of this isolator?
Robust, inexpensive 12V 150+amp smart battery isolator and smart split charge relay for RV, car, and truck applications
I like the emergency switch idea, but another computer makes me a little leary
Thank you, confirms from experience, what I have been reading.
What does everyone think of this isolator?
Robust, inexpensive 12V 150+amp smart battery isolator and smart split charge relay for RV, car, and truck applications
I like the emergency switch idea, but another computer makes me a little leary
That's what I used I like itI am running this one, got the idea from several others here. Small, easily wired, and works great.
Amazon.com: True UTV-SBI-15CK UTV Dual Battery Kit: Automotive
You will like it!This version of the TRUE is cool, has two volt meters to display voltage of each battery. Im thinking about getting this one.
Amazon.com: True UTV-SBI-15CM UTV Dual Battery Connect & Monitor Kit: Automotive