4Runner help. Any mechanics?

[WagginTail]

My wife's 2010 Toyota 4Runner with the 4.0 had the check engine light and traction control light come on the other day. I borrowed a code reader and it shows 3 different codes. I'm hoping someone can help me out. Here's the 3 codes

I talked with a younger mechanic at work and he said could be something simple with evap system causing all of the codes.
I checked vacuum hoses for leaks and didn't find any. The purge solenoid checks out good. What should I check next? Could it be as simple as the gas cap? Still not sure the evap could be causing ABS issues. Any help would greatly be appreciated as I'm trying to avoid taking it to the dealer for them to try to figure out.
Also it runs and drives fine. No changes that we have noticed.
Thanks

 

[Admin]

 

[Tramguage1]

Check the gas cap if it has one

 

[WagginTail]

I'll call the dealer in the morning and see if they have one in stock. Just read a toyota forum that said to change the gas cap also. Hopefully it's that simple. Thanks

 

[Mopower58]

@906UP is a Toyota guy and a mechanic, maybe he can help.

 

[WagginTail]

@906UP is a Toyota guy and a mechanic, maybe he can help.

Thanks

 

[906UP]

@906UP is a Toyota guy and a mechanic, maybe he can help.

Thanks

I can just about guarantee that the emissions code is the only issue. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, shuts of the traction control (ABS/VSC) with any code.

I'd suggest starting with a new gas cap, it's easy and cheap. Other things could include the EVAP solenoid, canister or lines. I had the same code on Lil 906UPs Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix) when she was in college, turned out to be the charcoal canister doo-hicky back by the fuel tank.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Had 2 Ford Fusions, same year.
Both had fill hole hinge covers and no gas cap.
Ford places an evap sensor under the trap door.
Both cars had multiple error codes when the trap door / sensor got gumbed up.

Flushed / spray cleaned behind the trap doors with gumout, carb / injector cleaner.
Fixed the check engine evap code every time.
Just sayin.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I am not super certain with Toyota systems. I can speak on behalf of GM systems. There is potential that a purge or vent solenoid can leak at certain "open/closed positions". For example, depending on the vehicle a purge valve can be open up to 100% per 10% increments. Basically 10 positions that could potentially leak more/less than it actually should causing small evap leaks. There can be times when a valve can pass a smoke test and still leak more than it should during the venting event.

Gas caps are always easy to try. I would recommend OE for pretty much all emissions based pasts.

I agree with the above posts that ECM dtcs can set other module dtcs and typically fixing ECM issues first can resolve other module dtcs.

 

[WagginTail]

I can just about guarantee that the emissions code is the only issue. Toyota, in their infinite wisdom, shuts of the traction control (ABS/VSC) with any code.

I'd suggest starting with a new gas cap, it's easy and cheap. Other things could include the EVAP solenoid, canister or lines. I had the same code on Lil 906UPs Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix) when she was in college, turned out to be the charcoal canister doo-hicky back by the fuel tank.

Awesome. Gonna try to find a gas cap today. When you say EVAP solenoid is that the same as the purge solenoid? I couldn't get vacuum coming through the original one so I bought a new one from Oreillys and put it on. Still no vacuum through the new solenoid. Then I found online where someone said the engine had to reach a certain temp for the solenoid to activate. Drove to town and back and then the solenoid was pulling vacuum through it. Put the old one back on and it was also pulling vacuum through it. It's a $100 part and I was gonna return the new one. Think I should just keep it? Get OEM one?

@Robobrainiac maybe I should return the Oreillys purge solenoid and get one from Toyota? I'm gonna go ahead and change the rubber hoses coming off both sides of the solenoid while I'm at it.

Thanks guys

 

[WagginTail]

Had 2 Ford Fusions, same year.
Both had fill hole hinge covers and no gas cap.
Ford places an evap sensor under the trap door.
Both cars had multiple error codes when the trap door / sensor got gumbed up.

Flushed / spray cleaned behind the trap doors with gumout, carb / injector cleaner.
Fixed the check engine evap code every time.
Just sayin.

4Runner has a gas cap. Gonna try a new one. Thanks

 

[906UP]

Awesome. Gonna try to find a gas cap today. When you say EVAP solenoid is that the same as the purge solenoid? I couldn't get vacuum coming through the original one so I bought a new one from Oreillys and put it on. Still no vacuum through the new solenoid. Then I found online where someone said the engine had to reach a certain temp for the solenoid to activate. Drove to town and back and then the solenoid was pulling vacuum through it. Put the old one back on and it was also pulling vacuum through it. It's a $100 part and I was gonna return the new one. Think I should just keep it? Get OEM one?

@Robobrainiac maybe I should return the Oreillys purge solenoid and get one from Toyota? I'm gonna go ahead and change the rubber hoses coming off both sides of the solenoid while I'm at it.

Thanks guys

Yes.....same-same. They only open periodically, dependent on engine temp, operating conditions, etc. The "small leak" dtc can be a b1tch to track down, I spent a couple months troubleshooting Lil's car. It really doesn't hurt anything, just annoying.

 

[DG Rider]

Yes.....same-same. They only open periodically, dependent on engine temp, operating conditions, etc. The "small leak" dtc can be a b1tch to track down, I spent a couple months troubleshooting Lil's car. It really doesn't hurt anything, just annoying.

Yep.
A smoke machine really helps here, but doesn't make sense for something that may never get used again.

Can you actually smell gas fumes at all?

 

[Robobrainiac]

Awesome. Gonna try to find a gas cap today. When you say EVAP solenoid is that the same as the purge solenoid? I couldn't get vacuum coming through the original one so I bought a new one from Oreillys and put it on. Still no vacuum through the new solenoid. Then I found online where someone said the engine had to reach a certain temp for the solenoid to activate. Drove to town and back and then the solenoid was pulling vacuum through it. Put the old one back on and it was also pulling vacuum through it. It's a $100 part and I was gonna return the new one. Think I should just keep it? Get OEM one?

@Robobrainiac maybe I should return the Oreillys purge solenoid and get one from Toyota? I'm gonna go ahead and change the rubber hoses coming off both sides of the solenoid while I'm at it.

Thanks guys

The evap vent solenoid is usually rear of vehicle area. It vents the fuel tank after the fuel tank canister. The purge solenoid is usually engine side and connects around the intake. Either of those parts can create a small evap leak. For the GM products the evap solenoid is usually clogged from dirt and the purge solenoid mechanically fails.

Using a proper scan tool that can command the evap system in conjunction with a smoke machine is usually the easiest way to test those parts.

I would say in my experience 8.5 times out of ten the problem is either the purge or the evap vent. 0.5 times out of ten I have found a tank cap leak (especially the newer cap less systems). 1 time out of ten I have seen tank issues.

In my experience I have had better luck with OE parts when it comes to emissions parts. However, no one manufacturer is flawless.

 

[WagginTail]

Yep.
A smoke machine really helps here, but doesn't make sense for something that may never get used again.

Can you actually smell gas fumes at all?

I can't smell any but my nose isn't very useful for smell. My wife has a nose like a bloodhound though and she hasn't noticed

 

[WagginTail]

The evap vent solenoid is usually rear of vehicle area. It vents the fuel tank after the fuel tank canister. The purge solenoid is usually engine side and connects around the intake. Either of those parts can create a small evap leak. For the GM products the evap solenoid is usually clogged from dirt and the purge solenoid mechanically fails.

Using a proper scan tool that can command the evap system in conjunction with a smoke machine is usually the easiest way to test those parts.

I would say in my experience 8.5 times out of ten the problem is either the purge or the evap vent. 0.5 times out of ten I have found a tank cap leak (especially the newer cap less systems). 1 time out of ten I have seen tank issues.

In my experience I have had better luck with OE parts when it comes to emissions parts. However, no one manufacturer is flawless.

Makes sense. Think I'm gonna go with process of elimination. Just changed the gas cap. I think the old one was not oem. Gonna drive it this week and if lights don't go off then I'll replace the rubber hoses going to the purge solenoid. Hoses aren't cracked there but maybe they could fit tighter on the hose barbs and they are probably not as flexible as they should be. If that doesn't fix it then I'm gonna change the purge solenoid with an oem one. Dang hoses from toyota are $40 each. I don't have a lift so I'm not looking forward to dropping the gas tank if the other items don't solve the issue.


Thanks for the help

 

[Robobrainiac]

1. CHECK PURGE VSV
   1. Connect the Techstream to the DLC3.
   2. Remove the V-bank cover . [ 1GR-FE INTAKE / EXHAUST: INTAKE MANIFOLD: REMOVAL+ ]
   1. Open In New Tab Zoom/Print
      
   2. Disconnect the hose (connected to the canister) from the purge VSV.
   1. Start the engine and turn the Techstream main switch on.
   1. Enter the following menus: Powertrain / Engine and ECT / Active Test / Activate the VSV for EVAPControl.
   2. OK:
      

      Tester Operation	Specified Condition
      EVAP VSV: OFF	Purge VSV has no suction
      EVAP VSV: ON	Purge VSV has suction

   1. Connect the hose (connected to the canister) to the purge VSV.
   1. Install the V-bank cover . [ 1GR-FE INTAKE / EXHAUST: INTAKE MANIFOLD: INSTALLATION+ ]

1. INSPECT FUEL CUT-OFF RPM
   1. Start and warm up the engine.
   2. Open the throttle valve and keep the engine speed at 3000 rpm.
   1. Use a sound scope to check for injector operating noise.
   1. Check that when the accelerator pedal is released, injector operation noise stops momentarily and then resumes.
   2. If the result is as not specified, check the injector, wiring and ECM.

1. VISUALLY INSPECT HOSES, CONNECTIONS AND GASKETS
   1. Check that there are no cracks, leaks or damage.
   2. NOTICE:
      • Detachment or other problems with the engine oil dipstick, filler cap, PCV hose and other components may cause the engine to run improperly.
      • Disconnection, looseness or cracks in the parts of the air induction system between the throttle body and cylinder head will allow air suction and cause an engine failure or engine failure malfunctions.
   3. If the result is not as specified, replace parts as necessary.

1. INSPECT FUEL CUT-OFF VALVE AND FILL CHECK VALVE
   1. Disconnect the vent line hose from the charcoal canister.
   2. Open In New Tab Zoom/Print
      
      
      Text in Illustration
      

      *1	Fuel Tank Cap	*2	Canister
      *3	Vent Line Hose	-	-

   3. Connect a pressure gauge to the vent line hose.
   1. Fill the fuel tank with fuel.
   1. Apply a pressure of 4 kPa (0.04 kgf/cm2, 0.6 psi) to the vent port of the fuel tank.
   2. HINT:
      If the fuel tank is full, it is necessary to check the fuel amount, as the float valve of the fill check valve is closed and there is no ventilation.
   1. Remove the fuel tank cap, and check that the pressure inside the tank drops.
   2. If the pressure does not drop, replace the fuel tank assembly.
   1. Reconnect the vent line hose to the charcoal canister.

1. CHECK AIR INLET LINE
   1. Disconnect the air inlet line hose from the charcoal canister.
   2. Open In New Tab Zoom/Print
      
   3. Check that there is ventilation in the air inlet line.
   4. HINT:
      If air cannot flow freely into the air inlet line, repair or replace it.
   1. Reconnect the air inlet line hose to the charcoal canister.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I am not sure how helpful this might be.

 

[WagginTail]

Thanks @Robobrainiac . Greatly appreciated. My buddy's scanner tool doesn't give out all that info