P1000 ACfixer's 1000-5 build and accessories so far...

ACfixer

ACfixer

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  1. 1000-5
Okay, almost two months into building out the buggy and several trials and errors let's take a look so far. ;) I'll include links to some of the stuff as well. MANY thanks to everyone that have answered questions, this is a great forum!

Here's what we look like under the hood. You can see my personal choices for component placement and wiring routes. I'm pretty happy with it as is and I feel like I was able to keep the area pretty clean. Included you'll see the True isolator, the stinger relay near the passenger side rear, it feeds a six circuit aux fuse box. The stinger is powered by a master switch on the dash. Right by the fuse block you can see the relays for the front and rear LED bars. The only thing I have on the accessory add a wire circuit are the turn indicators and horn. On the driver side is the winch controller and I will be adding the wireless winch controller this week or next and I'll likely make use of that factory cavity still available near the isolator.

1000elect 4


From the front you can see the SE 6000 Viper Elite widespool, well you can see the fairlead anyway. Also the Zmoon 24K lumen light bars from Amazon (these things re bright!!!). Also the LED turn signals from the club store kit mounted in the headlight bezel.

1000elect 2


Here's the winch link:


Here are the LED bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM4K4MG/?tag=sxsweb24-20

LED mounting brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZZHFS2/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Mirrors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWWBV9G/?tag=sxsweb24-20

From the rear you can see the same LED bars mounted up near the OEM hard top roof. Tennessee saw fit for me to make this street legal as well for $20 a year. All wiring for the rear I ran through 3/8" split conduit through the frame area after removing the underside splash protectors. Did my best to hide the wiring without drilling into the frame and I'm happy with the result, you have to look pretty hard to see it.

1000elect 1


Here's a shot of the panel provided by Crossroads 3D. Guy does a great job and the finish looks factory done. I liked the ability to add a cell phone holder near my charging ports. The dual voltmeter provided in my kit was problematic, it would backfeed and cause weird issues with the relay and acc. circuit in the dash. Was solved by just getting two voltmeters. The blue switch is the master that turns on the secondary stuff run by the aux battery. So far that includes the USB charging, the LED bars, and the winch.

Here's a link to the switch panel manufacturer. Pioneer 1000 Switch Panel | P1000 Dash plate - Crossroads 3D

1000elect 6


I cut out near the headlight switch for the turn signals, just seemed like the natural spot for it.

1000elect 5


Here's a quick shot showing the winch and the cable routing.

1000elect 3


Well that's about it for now, everything is working well and after originally having somewhat of a bird's nest behind the panel I think after doing a lot of shrink tubing and zip ties etc I got it cleaned up satisfactorily. I'm happy to get the dash panel buttoned up and I'll take it out for a few rides and do some reading to see what else I "need" to add. :D

Suggestions and comments welcome!
 
Last edited:
RobSparre

RobSparre

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West Chester, PA
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  1. 1000-5
Okay, almost two months into building out the buggy and several trials and errors let's take a look so far. ;) I'll include links to some of the stuff as well. MANY thanks to everyone that have answered questions, this is a great forum!

Here's what we look like under the hood. You can see my personal choices for component placement and wiring routes. I'm pretty happy with it as is and I feel like I was able to keep the area pretty clean. Included you'll see the True isolator, the stinger relay near the passenger side rear, it feeds a six circuit aux fuse box. The stinger is powered by a master switch on the dash. Right by the fuse block you can see the relays for the front and rear LED bars. The only thing I have on the accessory add a wire circuit are the turn indicators and horn. On the driver side is the winch controller and I will be adding the wireless winch controller this week or next and I'll likely make use of that factory cavity still available near the isolator.

View attachment 260443

From the front you can see the SE 6000 Viper Elite widespool, well you can see the fairlead anyway. Also the Zmoon 24K lumen light bars from Amazon (these things re bright!!!). Also the LED turn signals from the club store kit mounted in the headlight bezel.

View attachment 260450

Here's the winch link:


Here are the LED bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM4K4MG/?tag=sxsweb24-20

LED mounting brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZZHFS2/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Mirrors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWWBV9G/?tag=sxsweb24-20

From the rear you can see the same LED bars mounted up near the OEM hard top roof. Tennessee saw fit for me to make this street legal as well for $20 a year. All wiring for the rear I ran through 3/8" split conduit through the frame area after removing the underside splash protectors. Did my best to hide the wiring without drilling into the frame and I'm happy with the result, you have to look pretty hard to see it.

View attachment 260455

Here's a shot of the panel provided by a vendor here, 3D something I think? I'll post it when I find it. Guy does a great job and the finish looks factory done. I liked the ability to add a cell phone holder near my charging ports. The dual voltmeter provided in my kit was problematic, it would backfeed and cause weird issues with the relay and acc. circuit in the dash. Was solved by just getting two voltmeters. The blue switch is the master that turns on the secondary stuff run by the aux battery. So far that includes the USB charging, the LED bars, and the winch.

View attachment 260456

I cut out near the headlight switch for the turn signals, just seemed like the natural spot for it.

View attachment 260457

Here's a quick shot showing the winch and the cable routing.

View attachment 260458

Well that's about it for now, everything is working well and after originally having somewhat of a bird's nest behind the panel I think after doing a lot of shrink tubing and zip ties etc I got it cleaned up satisfactorily. I'm happy to get the dash panel buttoned up and I'll take it out for a few rides and do some reading to see what else I "need" to add. :D

Suggestions and comments welcome!
Awesome post!! I also got the viper elite 6000 and will have an install video in a few weeks on the topic. You have some great info here - well done!!
 
ACfixer

ACfixer

Global Warming Enthusiast
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N/E Tennessee
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  1. 1000-5
Awesome post!! I also got the viper elite 6000 and will have an install video in a few weeks on the topic. You have some great info here - well done!!

A lot of the stuff came trial and error based on your 2nd battery stuff Rob, thank you. And that whiteboard wiring schematic is the Bible for where to start!
 
Last edited:
ACfixer

ACfixer

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N/E Tennessee
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  1. 1000-5
I love the turn signal thing you did. Is your machine street legal? Tell us about anything else like wipers etc.

Yes, street legal in Tennessee on all county roads and some cities based on local ordinances (several tourist towns allow it). the 1000-5 meets the legal requirements for a Class-1 license and all it really requires to add to make it legal is turn signals and a horn. Mirrors seem to be optional as are a few other things. See the Class-1 column.

Mceclip0

The didn't ask me to see a darn thing, showed them my title and they issued me a plate and a tag on the spot and took $20 for their trouble. You are of course required to be insured, GEICO was easy-peasy and was around $300 a year for full coverage with the same limits as my auto policies. I asked them if they wanted to see the turn signals etc... inspect the vehicle. They chuckled and said no, but if I get pulled over the cop will want to see it. They advised I keep a copy of this chart onboard so I put one with my registration and POI.

So I can tool around the country with it, go grab some groceries or run to the local dive for breakfast. I don't think they want it on the road at night, pretty much during legal hunting hours, half hour before sunrise and after sunset etc... No freeways or divided state highways except to cross if need be. The idea as I see it is near off-road parks and hunting camp etc. and just having fun around the house. I can get to public hunting and off-road areas from the house by taking county roads no problem but it's a little ways and I don't think the tires would last real long doing that too much eh?

I don't have any wipers Rob, figured I'd clean the plexi and rain-x it and just call it good.
 
JenElio

JenElio

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  2. 1000-5
Okay, almost two months into building out the buggy and several trials and errors let's take a look so far. ;) I'll include links to some of the stuff as well. MANY thanks to everyone that have answered questions, this is a great forum!

Here's what we look like under the hood. You can see my personal choices for component placement and wiring routes. I'm pretty happy with it as is and I feel like I was able to keep the area pretty clean. Included you'll see the True isolator, the stinger relay near the passenger side rear, it feeds a six circuit aux fuse box. The stinger is powered by a master switch on the dash. Right by the fuse block you can see the relays for the front and rear LED bars. The only thing I have on the accessory add a wire circuit are the turn indicators and horn. On the driver side is the winch controller and I will be adding the wireless winch controller this week or next and I'll likely make use of that factory cavity still available near the isolator.

View attachment 260443

From the front you can see the SE 6000 Viper Elite widespool, well you can see the fairlead anyway. Also the Zmoon 24K lumen light bars from Amazon (these things re bright!!!). Also the LED turn signals from the club store kit mounted in the headlight bezel.

View attachment 260450

Here's the winch link:


Here are the LED bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM4K4MG/?tag=sxsweb24-20

LED mounting brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZZHFS2/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Mirrors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWWBV9G/?tag=sxsweb24-20

From the rear you can see the same LED bars mounted up near the OEM hard top roof. Tennessee saw fit for me to make this street legal as well for $20 a year. All wiring for the rear I ran through 3/8" split conduit through the frame area after removing the underside splash protectors. Did my best to hide the wiring without drilling into the frame and I'm happy with the result, you have to look pretty hard to see it.

View attachment 260455

Here's a shot of the panel provided by a vendor here, 3D something I think? I'll post it when I find it. Guy does a great job and the finish looks factory done. I liked the ability to add a cell phone holder near my charging ports. The dual voltmeter provided in my kit was problematic, it would backfeed and cause weird issues with the relay and acc. circuit in the dash. Was solved by just getting two voltmeters. The blue switch is the master that turns on the secondary stuff run by the aux battery. So far that includes the USB charging, the LED bars, and the winch.

View attachment 260456

I cut out near the headlight switch for the turn signals, just seemed like the natural spot for it.

View attachment 260457

Here's a quick shot showing the winch and the cable routing.

View attachment 260458

Well that's about it for now, everything is working well and after originally having somewhat of a bird's nest behind the panel I think after doing a lot of shrink tubing and zip ties etc I got it cleaned up satisfactorily. I'm happy to get the dash panel buttoned up and I'll take it out for a few rides and do some reading to see what else I "need" to add. :D

Suggestions and comments welcome!
Looks good!! Wish mine looked that clean 🙄 nice set up so far 👍
 
Lady01

Lady01

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  1. 1000-3
Okay, almost two months into building out the buggy and several trials and errors let's take a look so far. ;) I'll include links to some of the stuff as well. MANY thanks to everyone that have answered questions, this is a great forum!

Here's what we look like under the hood. You can see my personal choices for component placement and wiring routes. I'm pretty happy with it as is and I feel like I was able to keep the area pretty clean. Included you'll see the True isolator, the stinger relay near the passenger side rear, it feeds a six circuit aux fuse box. The stinger is powered by a master switch on the dash. Right by the fuse block you can see the relays for the front and rear LED bars. The only thing I have on the accessory add a wire circuit are the turn indicators and horn. On the driver side is the winch controller and I will be adding the wireless winch controller this week or next and I'll likely make use of that factory cavity still available near the isolator.

View attachment 260443

From the front you can see the SE 6000 Viper Elite widespool, well you can see the fairlead anyway. Also the Zmoon 24K lumen light bars from Amazon (these things re bright!!!). Also the LED turn signals from the club store kit mounted in the headlight bezel.

View attachment 260450

Here's the winch link:


Here are the LED bars: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM4K4MG/?tag=sxsweb24-20

LED mounting brackets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XZZHFS2/?tag=sxsweb24-20

Mirrors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWWBV9G/?tag=sxsweb24-20

From the rear you can see the same LED bars mounted up near the OEM hard top roof. Tennessee saw fit for me to make this street legal as well for $20 a year. All wiring for the rear I ran through 3/8" split conduit through the frame area after removing the underside splash protectors. Did my best to hide the wiring without drilling into the frame and I'm happy with the result, you have to look pretty hard to see it.

View attachment 260455

Here's a shot of the panel provided by Crossroads 3D. Guy does a great job and the finish looks factory done. I liked the ability to add a cell phone holder near my charging ports. The dual voltmeter provided in my kit was problematic, it would backfeed and cause weird issues with the relay and acc. circuit in the dash. Was solved by just getting two voltmeters. The blue switch is the master that turns on the secondary stuff run by the aux battery. So far that includes the USB charging, the LED bars, and the winch.

Here's a link to the switch panel manufacturer. Pioneer 1000 Switch Panel | P1000 Dash plate - Crossroads 3D

View attachment 260456

I cut out near the headlight switch for the turn signals, just seemed like the natural spot for it.

View attachment 260457

Here's a quick shot showing the winch and the cable routing.

View attachment 260458

Well that's about it for now, everything is working well and after originally having somewhat of a bird's nest behind the panel I think after doing a lot of shrink tubing and zip ties etc I got it cleaned up satisfactorily. I'm happy to get the dash panel buttoned up and I'll take it out for a few rides and do some reading to see what else I "need" to add. :D

Suggestions and comments welcome!

Nice clean install... really like your set up!
 
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solrus

solrus

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Would you be able to provide links for
- fuse box
- what winch plate you used?
- turn signal kit
- battery ( does capacity matters or it should be same as OEM?)

thank you!

Just started to work on my "project" I got off auction :))
 
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solrus

solrus

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Awesome post!! I also got the viper elite 6000 and will have an install video in a few weeks on the topic. You have some great info here - well done!!
Rob, I have already existing voltmeter that came with my p1000-5 it was part of honda switch dash. should I just get another voltmeter single and toss away the dual that would come with true isolator kit?
 
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RobSparre

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Rob, I have already existing voltmeter that came with my p1000-5 it was part of honda switch dash. should I just get another voltmeter single and toss away the dual that would come with true isolator kit?
You could do that (just get another single VM). However, you could also just use the dual VM and only wire one side of it so you don't have to purchase another VM. It's also a function of using up dash space. If it were my decision, I would be tempted to pull out the existing VM and put the dual VM in it's place. Then you have both batteries monitored on one VM and don't take up any additional panel space and don't have to purchase the other VM.
 
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ACfixer

ACfixer

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N/E Tennessee
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  1. 1000-5
Would you be able to provide links for
- fuse box
- what winch plate you used?
- turn signal kit
- battery ( does capacity matters or it should be same as OEM?)

thank you!

Just started to work on my "project" I got off auction :))

I can't help you with the fuse box, it's a 6 circuit mini-fuse I got at Autozone.

The winch plate is the one they sent me when I bought the winch at the club store.

The turn signal kit right here: I did not opt for the plug-n-play option, if you're familiar with electrical it's pretty straightforward and making my own splices allowed me to shed any access wiring to clean up the install.


The battery is the Mighty Max many here suggested. It fits perfectly in the cavity and won't break your bank account.

 
RobSparre

RobSparre

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  1. 1000-5
Would you be able to provide links for
- fuse box
- what winch plate you used?
- turn signal kit
- battery ( does capacity matters or it should be same as OEM?)

thank you!

Just started to work on my "project" I got off auction :))
The fuse box I used is a 12 circuit model. I said in my video that I would never need more than 6 circuits, and I am already up to 9 - lol.... So 12 is good!

 
RobSparre

RobSparre

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Elaborate please!
Well you already clearly know what you are doing, so not sure what you want me to elaborate on.
I have attached a wiring diagram that has most of the items below.

In my dual battery video I show how to wire up the 1st 3 circuits
1 = dual volt meter - 5A fuse - no switch
2 = dual USB charging port - 5A fuse - no switch
3 = DC outlet (cigarette lighter) port - 15A fuse - no switch

Then in the 10 accessories video I added
4 = Light Bar - 5A fuse - with switch (has relay with 30A fuse)
5 = dual rear lights - 5A fuse - with switch
6 = dual interior dome lights - 5A fuse - with dimmer and dash switch
7 = foot well lights - LED strips change color to pimp out the ride - 5A fuse - with switch and remote control

Then I have a winch video coming in a few weeks that will add
8 = winch - 5A fuse - with switch (has relay with 30A? fuse)

Then I have a heater video which I have just started that will add
9 = heater - not sure what size fuse yet - with switch

That leaves me with 3 open spots....
 

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  • Honda P1K Rob Wiring diagram with relay dimmer and winch v206.pdf
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ACfixer

ACfixer

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  1. 1000-5
Well you already clearly know what you are doing, so not sure what you want me to elaborate on.

Hahaha well more along the lines of what you were adding circuits for that I haven't done yet Rob. :D

I think some interior lighting is probably next, thank you. I'm still undecided as far as a cab enclosure and heat, but the first time I freeze my nose off in the fall I'll probably be a day late and a dollar short.
 
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RobSparre

RobSparre

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  1. 1000-5
Hahaha well more along the lines of what you were adding circuits for that I haven't done yet Rob. :D

I think some interior lighting is probably next, thank you.
I did find the interior lights VERY helpful. The two dome lights were inexpensive and the dimmer was a great addition. The footwell lights seemed a bit silly, but really help with seeing inside the vehicle in the dark. I would rate both of those as must haves now that I have them - lol.
 
ACfixer

ACfixer

Global Warming Enthusiast
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Jan 22, 2021
218
840
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N/E Tennessee
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
I did find the interior lights VERY helpful. The two dome lights were inexpensive and the dimmer was a great addition. The footwell lights seemed a bit silly, but really help with seeing inside the vehicle in the dark. I would rate both of those as must haves now that I have them - lol.

Got links to the lighting you used Rob? Thank you.

By the way, your wiring diagrams are well done. Even a novice at doing electrical work should be able to understand and work with them.
 
RobSparre

RobSparre

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  1. 1000-5
Thank you - yes I can provide links to the lighting here. I also provide links to all products in the video descriptions.

Rough Country front light bar

Bumper Mounts for the light bar:

The two backup lights
HondaSxS Club Store - get the two pack kit, not the single Plug-n-play Auto Backup Light High Mount Kit for Honda Pioneer 1000

Dome lights

Dimmer for the dome lights

Footwell lights

And here is a link to the video that shows what they look like and how they all got hooked up
 
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