P500 Adding 2x8s under the rear wheels (on tailgate) good idea?

[Disco]

Hey all!

I have an F250 SB and not really excited about the weight of the rear wheels resting on the tailgate, esp off road (and the occasional cattle guard). I cut some 2"x8"x4' planks to rest under the rears to help distribute the weight, some off the gate and onto the bed.

The problem comes when loading in 4WD, the front tires grab the planks and slide them backwards. Doesn't matter if I put the ramp lips over or under the planks.

So, I'm looking at blowing off the planks and hoping bumping along doesn't destroy my tailgate (I have DGs as a backup) or load the P5 in 2WD. Any thoughts on these two courses? Thanks!

 

[trigger]

Use longer 2x8's maybe?

 

[13_xxc]

I have been carrying ATVS in mid size pick up trucks for 15ish years and have never had a tail gate problem but maybe I’m just lucky


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[Disco]

Use longer 2x8's maybe?

Won't matter if I use 4' or 7' boards-front tires are still going to slide them backwards when they start gripping.

 

[HUCK]

It won't hurt your tailgate .

 

[Mudder]

Consider a carriage bolt or pin thru center of each board plank, to fit down in slot between open tailgate and bed? That might keep them from sliding out, easy to pull pins out for storage . Also pinned ramps to boards to avoid slippage. Full lenght boards to front of bed might also allow a 6x6 block/wheel chock set back to stop the front wheels.

 

[sgerksinwi]

Hey all!

I have an F250 SB and not really excited about the weight of the rear wheels resting on the tailgate, esp off road (and the occasional cattle guard). I cut some 2"x8"x4' planks to rest under the rears to help distribute the weight, some off the gate and onto the bed.

The problem comes when loading in 4WD, the front tires grab the planks and slide them backwards. Doesn't matter if I put the ramp lips over or under the planks.

So, I'm looking at blowing off the planks and hoping bumping along doesn't destroy my tailgate (I have DGs as a backup) or load the P5 in 2WD. Any thoughts on these two courses? Thanks!

Try a sheet of plywood cut to fit under the whole machine.
Thicker the better..

 

[NitroxDiver]

I don’t see how a plank 4’ long will help transfer any weight. Now if the front tires set on the opposite end of the plank that may help. I personally don’t think there will be a problem it on the tailgate but if you are concerned you could load it in the truck then jack up the rear of the machine and slide a block under the rear of the frame right at the rear edge of the bed putting all the weight on the bed. You wouldn’t need to pick the tires all the way off the tailgate, just take the weight off.

 

[NitroxDiver]

I don’t see how a plank 4’ long will help transfer any weight. Now if the front tires set on the opposite end of the plank that may help. I personally don’t think there will be a problem it on the tailgate but if you are concerned you could load it in the truck then jack up the rear of the machine and slide a block under the rear of the frame right at the rear edge of the bed putting all the weight on the bed. You wouldn’t need to pick the tires all the way off the tailgate, just take the weight off.

The more I think about this you probably wouldn’t need to jack it up. Just slide a block under the frame that is just thick enough to slide in then use you ratchet straps to compress the springs. This way the load on the tailgate will not change when the truck bounced.

 

[Kracker]

Hey all!

I have an F250 SB and not really excited about the weight of the rear wheels resting on the tailgate, esp off road (and the occasional cattle guard). I cut some 2"x8"x4' planks to rest under the rears to help distribute the weight, some off the gate and onto the bed.

The problem comes when loading in 4WD, the front tires grab the planks and slide them backwards. Doesn't matter if I put the ramp lips over or under the planks.

So, I'm looking at blowing off the planks and hoping bumping along doesn't destroy my tailgate (I have DGs as a backup) or load the P5 in 2WD. Any thoughts on these two courses? Thanks!

I have a Duramax with the 6’ Bed, I have low tie points in cab side as well as rear..(ford may have them I don’t know).. but I’ve debated hauling mine in my truck as well instead of hauling trailer... anyhow I was goin to cut planks as u say the length of the bed to down tailgate... never thought of slipping backwards til saw ur post... but if I get to that point I think some short eyebolts secured about 2” or so from the cab side into the planks, then securing those to the tie points would hold them there... haven’t tried it yet may not work just a thought... ur tires won’t reach those bolts they’d hit the bedwall first due to tire arc...

 

[Kracker]

I also have after market rims tires so they stick out further than front bumper and would hit first... don’t know ur setup, but I know I don’t want to damage my tailgate with backup cams etc those things aren’t cheap and I won’t risk messing anything up....

 

[ShotgunClay]

Extreme Metal Products makes a possible fix.

Full Size Truck Tailgate Support for UTV's and ATV's

 

[Mudder]

I have a Duramax with the 6’ Bed, I have low tie points in cab side as well as rear..(ford may have them I don’t know).. but I’ve debated hauling mine in my truck as well instead of hauling trailer... anyhow I was goin to cut planks as u say the length of the bed to down tailgate... never thought of slipping backwards til saw ur post... but if I get to that point I think some short eyebolts secured about 2” or so from the cab side into the planks, then securing those to the tie points would hold them there... haven’t tried it yet may not work just a thought... ur tires won’t reach those bolts they’d hit the bedwall first due to tire arc...

How about one single strap set up stretched across rear tie downs, then secure to each board to prevent both sideways or rearward slippage. Loop strap around a secured bolt at wheel spacing. This approach would allow both boards to be stacked to carry to storage.
Just thinking out load, LOL.

 

[Kracker]

How about one single small chain with shackles or snap hooks stretched across rear tie downs, then carriage bolt/washer and nut thru links in middle of each board to prevent both sideways or rearward slippage where it matters most, closer to tailgate? Carriage head countersunk on bottom to avoid bed scratches. Just thinking out load, LOL.

Yep any of these ideas should work.. if I decide to load into back of truck... never done it but never know

 

[Buford]

It won't hurt your tailgate .

Maybe doesn't hurt the gate, but the pivots or the cables aren't really designed for supporting that much weight.

 

[AlR]

I have a Duramax with the 6’ Bed, I have low tie points in cab side as well as rear..(ford may have them I don’t know).. but I’ve debated hauling mine in my truck as well instead of hauling trailer... anyhow I was goin to cut planks as u say the length of the bed to down tailgate... never thought of slipping backwards til saw ur post... but if I get to that point I think some short eyebolts secured about 2” or so from the cab side into the planks, then securing those to the tie points would hold them there... haven’t tried it yet may not work just a thought... ur tires won’t reach those bolts they’d hit the bedwall first due to tire arc...

My D-max has a 6.5 ft box and I’ve hauled my P5 for thousands of kilometres. I look but haven’t noticed any change in the fit and closure of the tailgate. Many of these kilometres have been over pot-holed logging roads. Now... I can’t comment on the structural integrity of a Ford tailgate... but all these newer trucks have thinner tin.
Al

 

[NTCPrezJB]

In my experience tailgate supports don't slowly fail. They are "fine" and then they are broken. You asked if it is a good idea to try to distribute the weight...I'd say absolutely. A little wood is cheap insurance in my opinion. As with loading ramps though make sure you secure it. The two main planks, secured side to side with a 2x4 at the front and rear and strap the setup to the truck. Not really a lot of effort to prevent what could go wrong. Again... just my opinion for what it is worth.

 

[Mudder]

Wonder what the dynamic/momentum downward weight from a bump would be on that tailgate strap? Wish I had come up with the DG tailgate support idea. Bought a set, use the 45 degree often one to carry boards home from the store.

 

[NTCPrezJB]

Wonder what the dynamic/momentum downward weight from a bump would be on that tailgate strap? Wish I had come up with the DG tailgate support idea. Bought a set, use the 45 degree often one to carry boards home from the store.

I suspect the answer to that relies heavily on how the machine is strapped in. If it is just pulled forward with straps (cringes, but has seen plenty do it) it will allow far more bounce than if it pulled down with straps.

Keep in mind, I always have 5 straps on my pioneer. One over each tire and one through the cab over the floor board area. Oh and loosed ends tie the front bumper off to the front of my trailer too...just in case. I can laugh at myself, but I've also never lost anything I've ever loaded even though I've had straps break.

 

[Mudder]

Many good google results on tailgate ratings and hauling utvs. Smart people buy Polaris?.. “Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should”. LOL