P1000 Another Dual Battery and Fuse Panel question....

Neohio

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Thanks. Makes sense. It seems you are suggesting before the stinger (solenoid) and right off of a key-on lead. This makes intuitive sense to me as there is less between power-on and the winch; and the solenoid and fuse block would really be redundant to the contactor anyway. RIght?
Run the winch contactor directly off the secondary battery.
You will have one wire off your switch or remote wiring that receives key on signal.
Winch will not draw power until the remote/switch is activated.
 
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Daren

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I'm still kinda lost as to how using the stinger and activating it with "Key-on power" to power my fuse panel will not be using stock battery power for rocker switch illumination?!!! I get that there are 4 post on stinger. Power In from Aux battery, Power Out to fuse panel, Ground from Aux battery, and Key-on Power from 15acc wire. Do I just Posi-tap 15acc to stinger and then off same post on stinger to all my rocker switches for illumination?
 
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Tigermark

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Hook your rocker switches to your fuse panel. Don’t power anything directly off the stinger other than the fuse block. Just a suggestion, use a separate master switch to activate the stinger and don’t tie anything into the factory wiring.
 
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Cuoutdoors

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I'm still kinda lost as to how using the stinger and activating it with "Key-on power" to power my fuse panel will not be using stock battery power for rocker switch illumination?!!! I get that there are 4 post on stinger. Power In from Aux battery, Power Out to fuse panel, Ground from Aux battery, and Key-on Power from 15acc wire. Do I just Posi-tap 15acc to stinger and then off same post on stinger to all my rocker switches for illumination?
What are you after? Are you trying to figure out the illumination or the aux battery supply?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
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CFarrell71

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Hook your rocker switches to your fuse panel. Don’t power anything directly off the stinger other than the fuse block. Just a suggestion, use a separate master switch to activate the stinger and don’t tie anything into the factory wiring.


Just curious and trying to learn. I was planning to tie into the 15A Accessory fuse for a primary battery volt meter and to run to the solenoid for a 12V source(seen several folks doing that). Is that not a good idea? Also, I have a dual battery set up and separate fuse panel for all lights, radio,etc and will run winch off the 2nd battery as well. Was planning to have a volt meter for the 2nd battery run from the fuse panel too.
 
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mjn

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Just curious and trying to learn. I was planning to tie into the 15A Accessory fuse for a primary battery volt meter and to run to the solenoid for a 12V source(seen several folks doing that). Is that not a good idea? Also, I have a dual battery set up and separate fuse panel for all lights, radio,etc and will run winch off the 2nd battery as well. Was planning to have a volt meter for the 2nd battery run from the fuse panel too.
I just did this job tonite;
I hooked the primary battery to the six batt via a tru dual isolator. I hooked my stinger between the aux batt & the fuse panel. I grounded one aide of the stinger, & hooked the other side to a “key on power” wire jacked from the loom.
At this point, the only thing I have hooked to the fuse panel is the pwr lead for the aux battery.
Everything seems to work perfectly.
 
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Tigermark

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Just curious and trying to learn. I was planning to tie into the 15A Accessory fuse for a primary battery volt meter and to run to the solenoid for a 12V source(seen several folks doing that). Is that not a good idea? Also, I have a dual battery set up and separate fuse panel for all lights, radio,etc and will run winch off the 2nd battery as well. Was planning to have a volt meter for the 2nd battery run from the fuse panel too.
Yes, you can set it up that way. Sounds like you have good plan going! Post some pics when your done.
 
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CFarrell71

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Yes, you can set it up that way. Sounds like you have good plan going! Post some pics when your done.
Can you recommend the best way to run two things from the 15A accessory fuse on the Honda fuse panel. I see 2 black&white wires coming out of it. Can I run the volt meter on one and splice into the other one for the 12v source for the solenoid?
 
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mjn

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Can you recommend the best way to run two things from the 15A accessory fuse on the Honda fuse panel. I see 2 black&white wires coming out of it. Can I run the volt meter on one and splice into the other one for the 12v source for the solenoid?

I tapped into one blk/wht wire & took off with two wires from there. One powers the switch panel, the other goes to the Stinger.

And I have my second battery volt meter running off my aux fuse panel. Seems to work fine.

IMG 3625
 
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BlueBadger05

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Instead of using the "Key on" power to trigger the Stinger relay in the OP setup, I would like to just have a master switch on my dash that turns on my ability to turn on my accessories. Is this possible? These are the switches I am using. Would I connect directly from the second battery to the master power switch with an inline fuse to pole 2, then from pole 3 to the Stinger relay? Here is the switch diagram.

I think where I am getting confused is I need power coming to the switch, then to the Stinger. Where should I be getting the power from that goes to the switch?

Another couple questions:
1. What gauge wire should I be running from my second battery to the Stinger and from the Stinger to the Aux Fuse Panel?
2. Do I need an inline fuse between the Stinger and the fuse panel? If so, what size?
 
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OnTheJob

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Instead of using the "Key on" power to trigger the Stinger relay in the OP setup, I would like to just have a master switch on my dash that turns on my ability to turn on my accessories. Is this possible? These are the switches I am using. Would I connect directly from the second battery to the master power switch with an inline fuse to pole 2, then from pole 3 to the Stinger relay? Here is the switch diagram.

I think where I am getting confused is I need power coming to the switch, then to the Stinger. Where should I be getting the power from that goes to the switch?

Another couple questions:
1. What gauge wire should I be running from my second battery to the Stinger and from the Stinger to the Aux Fuse Panel?
2. Do I need an inline fuse between the Stinger and the fuse panel? If so, what size?

I am not aware of a Honda circuit that is hot all the time so you would likely have to tap directly from the positive of the second battery. I used 14 gauge wire for my switches and 6 gauge wire from the main battery to the True Isolator and then the second battery. From there, to the Stinger then to a 100 amp circuit breaker and then final to my fuse panel. If you decide to wire a winch, do that directly from the pos/neg of the second battery.
 
BlueBadger05

BlueBadger05

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Thanks for the info!

Is the 100 amp circuit breaker required or only recommended so you can "shut down" the fuse panel to work on it?

Isn't a 6 gauge wire supposed to be protected with a 60 amp fuse? I feel like what I have researched 80 would be the maximum. I might be missing something, but just thought I would mention it.
 
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OnTheJob

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Thanks for the info!

Is the 100 amp circuit breaker required or only recommended so you can "shut down" the fuse panel to work on it?

Isn't a 6 gauge wire supposed to be protected with a 60 amp fuse? I feel like what I have researched 80 would be the maximum. I might be missing something, but just thought I would mention it.

Depends on the length and what % voltage drop you are willing to give up. I used these 12 volt West Marine charts when I size my wires:

Marine Wire Size and Ampacity | West Marine
 
BlueBadger05

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Hook your rocker switches to your fuse panel. Don’t power anything directly off the stinger other than the fuse block. Just a suggestion, use a separate master switch to activate the stinger and don’t tie anything into the factory wiring.

So are you saying the master switch would trigger the stinger to activate? Basically a wire going from the aux battery to the switch, then from the switch to the stinger. When this switch is flipped, the rest of the aux items would receive power?
 
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Tigermark

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So are you saying the master switch would trigger the stinger to activate? Basically a wire going from the aux battery to the switch, then from the switch to the stinger. When this switch is flipped, the rest of the aux items would receive power?
That’s correct.
 

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