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P1000 Another Dual Battery and Fuse Panel question....

Daren

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May 16, 2016
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Hello everyone. I know there are various threads about this, but I need a little help and clarification. I have a 2016 Honda Pioneer 1000. I am wanting to do the dual battery upgrade with True Dual Battery Isolator Kit along with Odyessey PC925 battery. Along with dual battery setup I want to use the Blue Sea systems fuse panel. With this fuse panel getting power from seconds battery to run a few accessories I.E. winch, radio, light etc....
I have attached a few pictures to aid in my thinking. Please let me know if this is correct or totally Effin' wrong.

Step 1) Dual Battery and Isolator, see pic #1
Negative from each Battery ties together. Positive from each Battery ties into Isolator, with the small black wire on Isolator tying back into either Battery to complete grounding.

Step 2) Winch and contactor, see pic #2
Pos and Neg from winch into contactor, Pos and Neg from second Battery into contactor.

Step 3) Fuse Panel with "Key on power" with Stinger 80a Relay, see pic #3
Taping into factory 15acc wire for "key on" power goes to bottom of relay. Pos from second battery to top pos terminal on relay, other pos terminal on relay to pos of fuse panel. Neg from second battery to neg on fuse panel.

By using the 15acc power into relay should give me "key on" power to fuse panel. Allowing me to only utilize my accessories with the key on or machine running. Killing and accessories of key is removed so no dead battery with accessories left switched on.
Please help me and let me know if this or right or wrong. Thanks in advance.

IMG_6721.JPG IMG_6722.JPG IMG_6723.JPG
 
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Vikes79

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Hello everyone. I know there are various threads about this, but I need a little help and clarification. I have a 2016 Honda Pioneer 1000. I am wanting to do the dual battery upgrade with True Dual Battery Isolator Kit along with Odyessey PC925 battery. Along with dual battery setup I want to use the Blue Sea systems fuse panel. With this fuse panel getting power from seconds battery to run a few accessories I.E. winch, radio, light etc....
I have attached a few pictures to aid in my thinking. Please let me know if this is correct or totally Effin' wrong.

Step 1) Dual Battery and Isolator, see pic #1
Negative from each Battery ties together. Positive from each Battery ties into Isolator, with the small black wire on Isolator tying back into either Battery to complete grounding.

Step 2) Winch and contactor, see pic #2
Pos and Neg from winch into contactor, Pos and Neg from second Battery into contactor.

Step 3) Fuse Panel with "Key on power" with Stinger 80a Relay, see pic #3
Taping into factory 15acc wire for "key on" power goes to bottom of relay. Pos from second battery to top pos terminal on relay, other pos terminal on relay to pos of fuse panel. Neg from second battery to neg on fuse panel.

By using the 15acc power into relay should give me "key on" power to fuse panel. Allowing me to only utilize my accessories with the key on or machine running. Killing and accessories of key is removed so no dead battery with accessories left switched on.
Please help me and let me know if this or right or wrong. Thanks in advance.

View attachment 82720 View attachment 82721 View attachment 82722
Pretty close, I have two suggestions:

First you need a terminal strip for your component grounds or frame ground your lights (not preferred by me). Your negative wires don’t normally return to the fuse block unless it includes a ground strip.

Secondly I prefer to place my inline fuse to my fuse block between the battery and the relay vs how you have it placed.
 
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Smitty335

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Pretty close, I have two suggestions:

First you need a terminal strip for your component grounds or frame ground your lights (not preferred by me). Your negative wires don’t normally return to the fuse block unless it includes a ground strip.

Secondly I prefer to place my inline fuse to my fuse block between the battery and the relay vs how you have it placed.
My Blue Sea has the positive connection on one side and the ground strip on the other side under a nifty cover. Ground the Blue Sea and your set, makes the wiring a little neater.
 
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OnTheJob

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Qualifier: I am not an electrical expert/engineer/electrician.

When I did my second battery, I didn't want the stock battery to have anything to do with the second battery and accessories except running a a positive wire to the true isolator to feed the second battery and this included the ground. I ran a dedicated second ground wire for the second battery to the engine block ground location so the stock battery had enough ground to do it's job and the second battery it's own ground to do it's important job. I feel grounding two batteries through the same 6 AWG ground wire to the same engine ground is insufficient. The stock battery only runs stock stuff. The second battery and ground only runs stuff I added on.

Here is my attempt at a second battery that I mostly copied off others here:

P1000 - OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near"

It's working well for me after many lessons learned.
 

Smitty335

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Qualifier: I am not an electrical expert/engineer/electrician.

When I did my second battery, I didn't want the stock battery to have anything to do with the second battery and accessories except running a a positive wire to the true isolator to feed the second battery and this included the ground. I ran a dedicated second ground wire for the second battery to the engine block ground location so the stock battery had enough ground to do it's job and the second battery it's own ground to do it's important job. I feel grounding two batteries through the same 6 AWG ground wire to the same engine ground is insufficient. The stock battery only runs stock stuff. The second battery and ground only runs stuff I added on.

Here is my attempt at a second battery that I mostly copied off others here:

P1000 - OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near"

It's working well for me after many lessons learned.
I'm plumber, so wiring isn't my thing! I didn't run a separate ground, cause, I figured if both batteries had issues at the same time, it would be the ground and easy to fix and diagnose. But I'm a plumber! You all know about the three things all plumbers know, right? Well here's a news flash for you, there's been an amendment, if you have enough money, I can make it go up hill, HA!
 
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OnTheJob

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I'm plumber, so wiring isn't my thing! I didn't run a separate ground, cause, I figured if both batteries had issues at the same time, it would be the ground and easy to fix and diagnose. But I'm a plumber! You all know about the three things all plumbers know, right? Well here's a news flash for you, there's been an amendment, if you have enough money, I can make it go up hill, HA!
HA! That's why I threw out the disqualifier. I maybe totally full of poop when it comes to electrical and plumbing. I'm a hack but I try to see how others do it.

My guess:
1. s*** doesn't flow uphill
2. If it's broke don't fix it.
3. Friday is payday
 

Smitty335

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HA! That's why I threw out the disqualifier. I maybe totally full of poop when it comes to electrical and plumbing. I'm a hack but I try to see how others do it.

My guess:
1. s*** doesn't flow uphill
2. If it's broke don't fix it.
3. Friday is payday
 

Neohio

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I'm plumber, so wiring isn't my thing! I didn't run a separate ground, cause, I figured if both batteries had issues at the same time, it would be the ground and easy to fix and diagnose. But I'm a plumber! You all know about the three things all plumbers know, right? Well here's a news flash for you, there's been an amendment, if you have enough money, I can make it go up hill, HA!
1. Hot on the left
2. Cold on the right
3. s*** flows downhill?
 
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Cuoutdoors

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Make sure you have a good ground to the frame. You can put a single post to put all your grounds on or set up a bar. I have all mone going to one bolt. It looks like hell. I plan to get a bar with multiple posts to ground to so it cleans it up a bit.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

BKelly

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May 7, 2018
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Great question and thread. Thank you! Not an electrician here either. I'm working through this too on my new P700. I think I understand and agree with the OP and comments that others made too and its basically what I am planning to do; but I'm confused on the need for the stinger. As I think I understand it, including the stinger allows you to wire a switch to turn on/off second battery power. But if you don't do that is it necessary to wire one in if you pull power from a key on source?
 
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Cuoutdoors

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Great question and thread. Thank you! Not an electrician here either. I'm working through this too on my new P700. I think I understand and agree with the OP and comments that others made too and its basically what I am planning to do; but I'm confused on the need for the stinger. As I think I understand it, including the stinger allows you to wire a switch to turn on/off second battery power. But if you don't do that is it necessary to wire one in if you pull power from a key on source?
You shouldn't really be "pulling" any power from a keyed source, i.e. the wire coming out of the harness should not be used as a power supply for accessories. Rather, the keyed wire should activate a solenoid which will supply power and carry the load.

Power should flow from battery through solenoid to fuse panel then to individual accessory circuits from there. The solenoid can be activated by keyed wire or by a separate switch.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

BKelly

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Thanks. Is there an advantage to wiring in winch contactor before or after the stinger solenoid (i.e., connecting it to fuse panel versus right off a key-on lead) when the winch power will be wired to the second battery that is activated but the stinger? I've seen folks do both. Is one "better".
 
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Neohio

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Thanks. Is there an advantage to wiring in winch contactor before or after the stinger solenoid (i.e., connecting it to fuse panel versus right off a key-on lead) when the winch power will be wired to the second battery that is activated but the stinger? I've seen folks do both. Is one "better".
To protect your assets when out riding around and ensure proper charging while the winch is in use. I would wire it to the secondary battery, but hook up switch ignition wire to the winch contactor. This will ensure the key is on, and hopefully engine running while winching.
Although with the winch being attached to the second battery, voltage drops are not much of an issue anymore. I prefer to have my engine idling while winching. just a personal preference.
 

BKelly

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To protect your assets when out riding around and ensure proper charging while the winch is in use. I would wire it to the secondary battery, but hook up switch ignition wire to the winch contactor. This will ensure the key is on, and hopefully engine running while winching.
Although with the winch being attached to the second battery, voltage drops are not much of an issue anymore. I prefer to have my engine idling while winching. just a personal preference.
Thanks. Makes sense. It seems you are suggesting before the stinger (solenoid) and right off of a key-on lead. This makes intuitive sense to me as there is less between power-on and the winch; and the solenoid and fuse block would really be redundant to the contactor anyway. RIght?
 
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