P1000 $&*#! Ball Joint Cotter Pins!

[elkaholic]

I’m in the process of installing the arched SuperATV front a arms on my P1K. I’ve got new Honda ball joints pressed into the new arms and I am in the process of removing the OE a arms.

The goal is to remove that a arms and replace with the new ones as described in the P1K service manual. This does not require disassembling the hub from the steering knuckle and the axle from the hub. However the DA that installed the front suspension on my P1K put the cotter pins on the upper ball joints in parallel to the axle: ie the folded apart ends are against the inner face of the knuckle and the closed end is facing the centerline of the rig .... bastages

See pic


I have spent the better part of three hours trying to extract the pin. I have managed to straighten the bent over part but I cannot nudge the pin. Yes I have tightened and loosened the castle nut. Yes I have used vent needle nose pliers to try to wiggle it out. Yes, I have tried gun cleaning hooks to try to start the thing out so I can grab it with pliers.

I called it quits before I got out the black powder and caps .....

I am open to suggestions before I tear everything down (which will delay me as I don’t have the seals for the wheel bearings). I thought about sticking mig wire on the pin (the pin is steel) but doubt I can be that precise. Have thought about industrial epoxying a fragment of an old cotter pin to the head.

I really want to run down to the plant (about an hour away) and find the SOB that was assembling front suspensions the day mine was built and kick is as- around the plant ....


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[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Lol. Been there. Done that.
If you have them worn down can you get a wrench on it? Then can you turn it so you can knock it out with a punch?

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[ohanacreek]

I’m in the process of installing the arched SuperATV front a arms on my P1K. I’ve got new Honda ball joints pressed into the new arms and I am in the process of removing the OE a arms.

The goal is to remove that a arms and replace with the new ones as described in the P1K service manual. This does not require disassembling the hub from the steering knuckle and the axle from the hub. However the DA that installed the front suspension on my P1K put the cotter pins on the upper ball joints in parallel to the axle: ie the folded apart ends are against the inner face of the knuckle and the closed end is facing the centerline of the rig .... bastages

See pic
View attachment 61321

I have spent the better part of three hours trying to extract the pin. I have managed to straighten the bent over part but I cannot nudge the pin. Yes I have tightened and loosened the castle nut. Yes I have used vent needle nose pliers to try to wiggle it out. Yes, I have tried gun cleaning hooks to try to start the thing out so I can grab it with pliers.

I called it quits before I got out the black powder and caps .....

I am open to suggestions before I tear everything down (which will delay me as I don’t have the seals for the wheel bearings). I thought about sticking mig wire on the pin (the pin is steel) but doubt I can be that precise. Have thought about industrial epoxying a fragment of an old cotter pin to the head.

I really want to run down to the plant (about an hour away) and find the SOB that was assembling front suspensions the day mine was built and kick is as- around the plant ....


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Dremel with a cutoff wheel.

 

[allgm1]

grab on to it lightly with a pair of dykes (side cutters) close to the nut and slowly move the handles in a way that pulls it out, kind of like you would with a claw hammer

 

[elkaholic]

grab on to it lightly with a pair of dykes (side cutters) close to the nut and slowly move the handles in a way that pulls it out

There is not enough sticking out for me to do that .....


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[elkaholic]

Dremel with a cutoff wheel.

I’ll give that a try ...


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[GlockMeister]

I used a small screwdriver to pry it out enough to get a set if side cutters on it. PITA but itll work.

 

[Tramguage1]

I helped replace an axleon the trail at the Overland Adventure, I just turned the nut and it cut the cotter pin flush with the bolt. Then used a punch to remove the remaining part in the hole before reinstalling

 

[Elkhunter]

If all else fails,If you can tap a socket or wrench on to the nut just loosen the nut. May have to put a breaker bar on it. 90% on the time it will shear off both ends of the pin. Then when you get it apart take a small pin punch and poke out the remaining cotter that’s left.


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[elkaholic]

I helped replace an axleon the trail at the Overland Adventure, I just turned the nut and it cut the cotter pin flush with the bolt. Then used a punch to remove the remaining part in the hole before reinstalling

If all else fails,If you can tap a socket or wrench on to the nut just loosen the nut. May have to put a breaker bar on it. 90% on the time it will shear off both ends of the pin. Then when you get it apart take a small pin punch and poke out the remaining cotter that’s left.


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I may give that a shot. Issue is clearances. The castle nut in question is the one on the right in the picture in my first post. There is so little room there that it is all I can do to get a 17mm combination wrench in there.


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[Elkhunter]

I helped replace an axleon the trail at the Overland Adventure, I just turned the nut and it cut the cotter pin flush with the bolt. Then used a punch to remove the remaining part in the hole before reinstalling

Sorry don’t know how I missed Tramguages post! Same thing


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[Smitty335]

Sorry don’t know how I missed Tramguages post! Same thing


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Just got done with the install of the arched a arms today, straightened out tail end of cotter pin, took an awl pried the loop end out of the castle nut slot, with a another screw driver pried the awl out with the cotter pin intact. Harbor Freight has a ball joint puller that doesn't ruin the ball joint for $ 19.50. Works great. Bottom ball joint came apart with out puller on both sides, top ball joints, a whole different story.

 

[ToddACimer]

Straighten the bent side a little bit, push it back just a bit and get a dykes on it. Squeeze the dykes and pry sideways. Just did mine last week. If you have no other choice remove them with a 6 point socket and just shear the pin off

 

[ohanacreek]

 

[elkaholic]

View attachment 61333

And when all else fails ....




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[elkguide]

And when all else fails ....

View attachment 61335

You can always get a Ford tool......

I mean a BIGGER hammer!

 

[JTW]

I’ve drilled them out before when I couldn’t get in there to them.. never fails. It’s always in the most awkward position.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

And when all else fails ....

View attachment 61335


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Think I found a legal solution for that today

 

[my99svt]

Just got done with the install of the arched a arms today, straightened out tail end of cotter pin, took an awl pried the loop end out of the castle nut slot, with a another screw driver pried the awl out with the cotter pin intact. Harbor Freight has a ball joint puller that doesn't ruin the ball joint for $ 19.50. Works great. Bottom ball joint came apart with out puller on both sides, top ball joints, a whole different story.

You did the install yourself? I thought you were having it done?

 

[Smitty335]

You did the install yourself? I thought you were having it done?

I watched Joe install Nicks rear A arms and it was bothering me how it went together, like I cleaned and greased every bolt that didn't have a grease zerk, made template for A arm guards and I really wanted to understand how they were made and adjustments, I've got a pretty good understanding now. Snuff's instructions are great, gets you real close, I got final adjustments to be made, camber front and rear and looks like I have toe in in the rear. Be kinda like you having someone do some wiring for you.