P1000 Ball Joint Sheared

[P1K5Dave]

I sheared off my Right upper ball joint this weekend. All I was doing was turning off the trail into the bush and it popped. I went over a few smaller logs at zero speed a little earlier, but I don't know what made it break.

I have 30s on it, and I added 1.5" spacers a few months back. I've seen people curse the spacers, and now I'm starting to question my decision.

Searching all the threads here, people seem to like the oem joints. But I'm looking at those $80 SATV HD joints and thinking it may be worth the peace of mind.

The joint gave me no indication it was failing. No wobble, no noise - that's kind of discomforting. I'd hate to have one blow at speed!

So I'm looking for some feedback on the SATV HD joints vs standard, and whether it'd be necessary to replace all uppers and lowers or can I maybe just do the uppers for now? It seems like they're probably taking more pressure from the spacers, or am I wrong?

 

[Admin]

 

[bigshoe]

I'll be honest thats kinda impressive usually they rip the ball out of the socket not shear off . Are those after market control arms?

 

[DDDonkey]

Impressive I have wore some out but never sheared any. I have no experience with the SATV ones, I have found the OEM’s fine with my portals and 35’s.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I'll be honest thats kinda impressive usually they rip the ball out of the socket not shear off . Are those after market control arms?

Highlifter forward arms, 2.5 highlifter bracket lift.

 

[bigshoe]

Highlifter forward arms, 2.5 highlifter bracket lift.

That makes more sense i perfer oe suspension parts over aftermarket. More than likely a Chinese ball joint. Oe are always more trustworthy.

 

[bigshoe]

I've had customers leave mad at me because I will not install Amazon or ebay chassis parts. I've seen crap like that happen alot on trucks. Oe or moog on autos only!

 

[P1K5Dave]

That makes more sense i perfer oe suspension parts over aftermarket. More than likely a Chinese ball joint. Oe are always more trustworthy.

That's a thought. I assumed they were oem joints but I can't be sure what the po did when they put in the highlifter arms. I did put a new oem in to replace it so far.

I wonder if you can tell by any markings?

 

[Adam490]

I sheared off my Right upper ball joint this weekend. All I was doing was turning off the trail into the bush and it popped. I went over a few smaller logs at zero speed a little earlier, but I don't know what made it break.

I have 30s on it, and I added 1.5" spacers a few months back. I've seen people curse the spacers, and now I'm starting to question my decision.

Searching all the threads here, people seem to like the oem joints. But I'm looking at those $80 SATV HD joints and thinking it may be worth the peace of mind.

The joint gave me no indication it was failing. No wobble, no noise - that's kind of discomforting. I'd hate to have one blow at speed!

So I'm looking for some feedback on the SATV HD joints vs standard, and whether it'd be necessary to replace all uppers and lowers or can I maybe just do the uppers for now? It seems like they're probably taking more pressure from the spacers, or am I wrong?View attachment 234336

I'd be willing to bet whoever you bought it from pressed the joints in using a socket/pipe/etc on the outer lip of the OEM ball joint and stressed/cracked it. When I was pressing a new OEM joint into my SATV arms (I had just done the other side with no issue) the lip started to rip off which caused the joint to start to go in crooked. That's the only way I could see that shearing off like in your picture. They probably just mashed it on in there.

 

[Gabbas]

From everything I've read I would avoid SATV tie rods and ball joints. If you want a heavy duty one Keller makes an awesome set

Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

 

[Ohio4x4]

I'd be willing to bet whoever you bought it from pressed the joints in using a socket/pipe/etc on the outer lip of the OEM ball joint and stressed/cracked it. When I was pressing a new OEM joint into my SATV arms (I had just done the other side with no issue) the lip started to rip off which caused the joint to start to go in crooked. That's the only way I could see that shearing off like in your picture. They probably just mashed it on in there.

View attachment 234376

I did the same thing. I just figured it was me rushing through the install. I forced mine the rest of the way in and rode it a few times before it was falling apart and I had to change it again lol.

 

[P1K5Dave]

From everything I've read I would avoid SATV tie rods and ball joints. If you want a heavy duty one Keller makes an awesome set

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Tell me more...I haven't heard anything negative about the joints. Usually you see posts about avoiding hd tie rods, I agree.

Satv says their joints are stronger than keller

UTV Ball Joint Challenge—Who Has the Best?

How do we know that we have heavy-duty ball joints that rock? We test them! Tyler walks us through our testing process and the results in this episode of 2-Minute Tech Talk.

www.superatv.com

 

[Gabbas]

Tell me more...I haven't heard anything negative about the joints. Usually you see posts about avoiding hd tie rods, I agree.

Satv says their joints are stronger than keller

UTV Ball Joint Challenge—Who Has the Best?

How do we know that we have heavy-duty ball joints that rock? We test them! Tyler walks us through our testing process and the results in this episode of 2-Minute Tech Talk.

www.superatv.com

You could be right. I may be mistaken thinking of their tie rods. I know those are junk.

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[HondaTech]

Tell me more...I haven't heard anything negative about the joints. Usually you see posts about avoiding hd tie rods, I agree.

Satv says their joints are stronger than keller

UTV Ball Joint Challenge—Who Has the Best?

How do we know that we have heavy-duty ball joints that rock? We test them! Tyler walks us through our testing process and the results in this episode of 2-Minute Tech Talk.

www.superatv.com

Half the time the ball joints aren't even press fit, they just fall in the hole and are loose as hell. Don't know whether it's the hole in the arm is too big or the baljoint is undersized.

 

[SuperATV]

Those ball joints are stout. No worries there. We did a redesign on them a year or so ago, and they're the best out there for the Honda's. If the ball joint is loose in the hole, the hole is wallered out or just out of spec. We changed up the arms about 2 years ago and they all have chromoly ball joint hole plates now. Plus, they have a pretty good warranty. Hit me up of you need some. I'll get you the discount.

 

[P1K5Dave]

I circled the sheared off stud just because it's hard to make heads or tails of these pics sometimes.

You see the upper a-arm laying across the brake line, and the end of it ripped up the CV boot.

Total damage:
New upper ball joint
New brake hose
New CV boot kit

I actually went ahead and replaced the axle with a Rhino 2.0, so I can keep this axle as a spare next time I mess something up. It's an oem axle I just replaced 11 days before this incident.

 

[Timmy]

My p500 has 4,050 miles on it. 27” tires and 2” spacers on all four. About due for ball joints. They have some slop in them.