P1000 Broken Bolt mount to A-Arm. 2018 Pioneer 1000-LE

R

rwils19

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Hi, I was wondering if you ever got this resolved? I just did a similar thing to my 2021 1000-5. I hit a bigger ditch though. about 4ft deep...it came out of no-where. it did a lot of other damage to the control arms and axle . and turned the tie rod into an S shape. But most importantly it ripped the tabs right off the frame. I have it turned into my insurance and I'm waiting on the damage estimate, but i don't know if they will total it just for that?
 
Adam490

Adam490

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Hi, I was wondering if you ever got this resolved? I just did a similar thing to my 2021 1000-5. I hit a bigger ditch though. about 4ft deep...it came out of no-where. it did a lot of other damage to the control arms and axle . and turned the tie rod into an S shape. But most importantly it ripped the tabs right off the frame. I have it turned into my insurance and I'm waiting on the damage estimate, but i don't know if they will total it just for that?
They more than likely will total the machine since it requires the frame to be replaced if done by the dealer/Honda.
 
P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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I've replaced the frame on a 3 seat LE that was in the same boat. Insurance didn't total it, they paid for the repairs.

We've done 3 Talon frames so far as well.

Are you guys replacing the whole frame? I would assume so...

I wish someone would step up and manufacture just the front clip, a lot stronger than stock. I think it would sell.
 
H

HondaTech

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Are you guys replacing the whole frame? I would assume so...

I wish someone would step up and manufacture just the front clip, a lot stronger than stock. I think it would sell.

The last Pioneer yes, we have cut deals on just the front half for less labor and we keep the rear 2/3s of the frame or whatever.

Talon frames are one piece and usually take 4 days, we charge around 35 hours for a Talon.

Ive got an atv to do next, 19 hours for a bent A-arm mount. Unit has under 100 miles and no insurance.
 
bumperm

bumperm

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I was quoted nine hundred and something for comprehensive insurance (with deductible). I passed. Now I see why it was so high. I weld and will fix it myself in the unlikely event . . . . (I'm 76, no need to go too fast!)
 
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ToddACimer

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I run a polaris bolt on mine too. It's a course thread and it terminates the shank well within the a-arm. My thought is with stiffer tabs and weld washers the coarse thread bolt is more likely to break than the OEM Honda bolt with fine thread and the high torque is no longer needed because the tabs aren't being torqued /bent to clamp the bushings in place. My bushings are tight and I've basically created a pin joint
Update on this. I've now broken 2 of the Polaris bolts and bent 2 more. I switched to m10x1.5 x 240 mm Grade 12.9 Allen head cap screws from McMaster. No miles with the new bolts but the Polaris bolt did not work for me and I even tried a second but, red lock-tite and retorque between rides. It gets a click to it as the bushings pivot with Superatv arms and breaks shortly after. Next option is 2 bolts or 12mm bolts, both are a lot more work
 
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Adam490

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Update on this. I've now broken 2 of the Polaris bolts and bent 2 more. I switched to m10x1.5 x 240 mm Grade 12.9 Allen head cap screws from McMaster. No miles with the new bolts but the Polaris bolt did not work for me and I even tried a second but, red lock-tite and retorque between rides. It gets a click to it as the bushings pivot with Superatv arms and breaks shortly after. Next option is 2 bolts or 12mm bolts, both are a lot more work
That'll be the next thing I do. Go to a double shear upper.
 
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tbwolf

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Update on this. I've now broken 2 of the Polaris bolts and bent 2 more. I switched to m10x1.5 x 240 mm Grade 12.9 Allen head cap screws from McMaster. No miles with the new bolts but the Polaris bolt did not work for me and I even tried a second but, red lock-tite and retorque between rides. It gets a click to it as the bushings pivot with Superatv arms and breaks shortly after. Next option is 2 bolts or 12mm bolts, both are a lot more work
This thread is a bit older but I'm in the process of installing the SATV arms now and also reinforcing the upper forward tab like everyone else has done. My passenger side upper was magically torn off the frame a while back when the boys were driving it.
Is the 12.9 bolt from McMaster Carr holding up?
 
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Marcel

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My 2018 broke with six or seven hundred kilometres on it. The dealer recommended a welding shop/fabricator nearby. It cost around $400 to fix if I recall correctly, but I have over 7000 km on it now with some rough hits over the years and it held up perfectly.
 
ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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This thread is a bit older but I'm in the process of installing the SATV arms now and also reinforcing the upper forward tab like everyone else has done. My passenger side upper was magically torn off the frame a while back when the boys were driving it.
Is the 12.9 bolt from McMaster Carr holding up?
I havent had any issues with the bolt since switching to the 12.9 and adding double nuts. I did have the driver's side nut come loose twice with just a nut and lock tire. I put on 1000 trouble free miles last year.
 
Neohio

Neohio

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This kit will help.

 
Scoop

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This kit will help.

My brother is a welder/fabricator by trade (40+ years), including running a mobile welding side business (MIG & TIG, mostly).

Since I'm installing the SATV a-arms on my '21 1000-5 Deluxe between now and the end of the month, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to have him over.

Is this kit sufficient, or should I have him fab up some gussets/support tabs as well and/or instead? I did read this entire thread, but I'm only a novice fabricator at best.
 
CID

CID

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My brother is a welder/fabricator by trade (40+ years), including running a mobile welding side business (MIG & TIG, mostly).

Since I'm installing the SATV a-arms on my '21 1000-5 Deluxe between now and the end of the month, I'm thinking it would be a good idea to have him over.

Is this kit sufficient, or should I have him fab up some gussets/support tabs as well and/or instead? I did read this entire thread, but I'm only a novice fabricator at best.
The kit is good but additional gusseting by an experienced fabricator is much better IMO. The kit uses the stock mounting tabs which are the weak point, regardless of how strong the bolts are.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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The kit is good but additional gusseting by an experienced fabricator is much better IMO. The kit uses the stock mounting tabs which are the weak point, regardless of how strong the bolts are.
So doing BOTH is best then?
 
Scoop

Scoop

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Since your brother is available and Neohio linked the kit, that's what I'd do.
Danke, sir!

Can't say enough how much I've come to appreciate the WOTF (wisdom of the forum) since buying my first SXS and joining up here in 2021.
 
CID

CID

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Danke, sir!

Can't say enough how much I've come to appreciate the WOTF (wisdom of the forum) since buying my first SXS and joining up here in 2021.
I can say the same thing, bought my first SxS in Feb. 2020 and WOTF has saved me a lot of time and cost me a lot of money. :oops:

And, yer welcome.
 

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