P700 Camshaft replacement help

[HondaTech]

I have a question if anyone can help. Does the 2013 MUV700 have a decompression part on the camshaft?

Yes, its the piece that moves slightly, you can see a spring under it.

 

[Admin]

 

[Samre]

Thank you, I don't know why I could not find that anywhere.

 

[Samre]

I replaced the cam and it fixed the problem....Now the transmission seems to jerk or something about every 200 feet, shift lever really jerks. Does it in 2 or 4 wheel drive... Does not do it in reverse. Please comment.
Thanks

 

[mtn]

Could someone please help me out with this camshaft install on my 700-4? Looking for:

Torque spec for cam holders (not listed in service manual, as it says just ‘tighten’.

I have the big, bottom line on the cam sproket lined up parallel with the cylinder surface as best I can tell. The manual says to line them up with the holder plate edge, which they don’t. See attached pic.

And there is a fair amount of gunk on top of the piston. I cleaned a bunch off, but some still remains. How do I clean the rest off? The correct term is escaping me.

 

[Neohio]

Could someone please help me out with this camshaft install on my 700-4? Looking for:

Torque spec for cam holders (not listed in service manual, as it says just ‘tighten’.

I have the big, bottom line on the cam sproket lined up parallel with the cylinder surface as best I can tell. The manual says to line them up with the holder plate edge, which they don’t. See attached pic.

And there is a fair amount of gunk on top of the piston. I cleaned a bunch off, but some still remains. How do I clean the rest off? The correct term is escaping me.

View attachment 389719

The service manual tends to have torque values for fasteners in the first few chapters of the book. I would look there for the proper torque value you want. If none still listed. Find common torque values listed for that bolt diameter and use your judgment.

I believe the term you are looking for is carbon on top of the piston.

 

[mtn]

I’m really about to lose it with this project. I cannot get anything to line up perfectly and am scared that I put this back together and it will have to be taken apart again. So much for a learning experience.

I have attached a picture of the TDC mark, the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, and the stupid timing marks on the camshaft that won’t like up excact. About 1/16” off from side to side, even after trying to hold the chain while releasing the tensioner.

Edit: i did move the chain back one tooth and it is much further off, so this mustvbe the correct solution pictured.

 

[DG Rider]

I’m really about to lose it with this project. I cannot get anything to line up perfectly and am scared that I put this back together and it will have to be taken apart again. So much for a learning experience.

I have attached a picture of the TDC mark, the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, and the stupid timing marks on the camshaft that won’t like up excact. About 1/16” off from side to side, even after trying to hold the chain while releasing the tensioner.

Edit: i did move the chain back one tooth and it is much further off, so this mustvbe the correct solution pictured.

View attachment 390838 View attachment 390839 View attachment 390840

Is this a new chain? A worn chain would throw it off...

I've not done much in the way of timing on powersport stuff, but I can tell you that in the automotive world, timing marks rarely line up perfectly. You have to visualize (or actually check) what it would be like one tooth in either direction and pick the closest. Aftermarket stuff adds some variables as well.

 

[Mudwisel]

I’m really about to lose it with this project. I cannot get anything to line up perfectly and am scared that I put this back together and it will have to be taken apart again. So much for a learning experience.

I have attached a picture of the TDC mark, the piston at TDC on the compression stroke, and the stupid timing marks on the camshaft that won’t like up excact. About 1/16” off from side to side, even after trying to hold the chain while releasing the tensioner.

Edit: i did move the chain back one tooth and it is much further off, so this mustvbe the correct solution pictured.

View attachment 390838 View attachment 390839 View attachment 390840

make sure you are checking alignment while pushing the chain on the tensioner

 

[mtn]

Is this a new chain? A worn chain would throw it off...

I've not done much in the way of timing on powersport stuff, but I can tell you that in the automotive world, timing marks rarely line up perfectly. You have to visualize (or actually check) what it would be like one tooth in either direction and pick the closest. Aftermarket stuff adds some variables as well.

That is the existing chain in the machine. I have to imagine that this is the only way as I had also tried the other sprocket tooth that it could’ve been. I didn’t even bother with a picture since it was about 3/16” off on the other tooth. Maybe the mark isn’t lined up exactly right on the crankshaft. Idk.

Definitely moving to the next step which is these valve stem seals. I’ll get a pic uploaded for opinions on what I should do in regards to cleaning the carbon up and/or lapping.

 

[mtn]

make sure you are checking alignment while pushing the chain on the tensioner

Yes, tensioner was fully engaging the chain when checking the alignment.

 

[Neohio]

We can see the carbon on the top of the piston. Personally I would leave it as is.

 

[HondaTech]

The piston looks clean enough for me to put it back together.

The line on the cam is finicky, and can be even with a new a chain.

What you have pictured is good to go in my book.

 

[mtn]

And here’s the other issue: I still want to replace the stem seals just out of precaution. I’m thinking leave the carbon deposits alone and just put each valve back in their respective locations without lapping them? I took it to a machinist today and mentally blanked so I didn’t even ask if I should lap them.

 

[mtn]

Going to pick up some acetone from the store tomorrow to get the remainder of the gasket off as well.

 

[mtn]

Soooo....

The head studs are m10x265. Anyone know the proper timesert to order? Thread pitch and hole depth are the factors. It's the passenger rear stud in question.

And yes, I was torqueing to the proper spec in increments as disclosed in the service manual.

 

[Muggster71]

Soooo....

The head studs are m10x265. Anyone know the proper timesert to order? Thread pitch and hole depth are the factors. It's the passenger rear stud in question.

And yes, I was torqueing to the proper spec in increments as disclosed in the service manual.

Hello, I’m a new member here but have been reading on here for a few years now. It seems I have the same camshaft issue and had a couple of questions if you don’t mind. What year is your machine? Mine is a muv700 2009 model (big red) I’m trying to figure out exactly what I need to order to get this job done. At this point I know I need a camshaft, buckets, chain and tensioner. Are there any gaskets or seals that will need to be replaced? Also, part numbers would be greatly appreciated, if our machines are the same. Thanks for any feedback. Did you get the repair completed?

 

[Swamper2fly]

Plenty of them go far, far over 6000 miles and never have an issue. It's unfortunate that this happens, but the majority are just fine. What I'd like is a definitive answer from Honda as to why it happens, so we can take steps to avoid it.
Valve adjustment is a normal maintenance item. There are still a lot of cars out there that are supposed to have adjustments. Nobody ever does them.

Most cars have hydraulic lifters and don't need adjustments.

 

[Remington]

Most cars have hydraulic lifters and don't need adjustments.

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You are right, most currant stuff has hydraulic lifters. I work on Genera Gens and they just moved this year to Hydraulics on there air cools

 

[DRZRon1]

Hello, I’m a new member here but have been reading on here for a few years now. It seems I have the same camshaft issue and had a couple of questions if you don’t mind. What year is your machine? Mine is a muv700 2009 model (big red) I’m trying to figure out exactly what I need to order to get this job done. At this point I know I need a camshaft, buckets, chain and tensioner. Are there any gaskets or seals that will need to be replaced? Also, part numbers would be greatly appreciated, if our machines are the same. Thanks for any feedback. Did you get the repair completed?

my advice is to go on Ron ayers website - pump in your model info - there is a complete breakdown of every seal and gasket and part numbers

besides what you listed above of course all the gaskets to rebuild the top and valve seals would be on my list.

 

[Muggster71]

my advice is to go on Ron ayers website - pump in your model info - there is a complete breakdown of every seal and gasket and part numbers

besides what you listed above of course all the gaskets to rebuild the top and valve seals would be on my list.

Thanks for the reply. Do these things have a VIN number? If so, where is it located? I have a pic of some info I found but nothing that looks like a VIN number.