Yes thats when I notice its way out. When looking at it before i take it for a ride it looks toed in. After the ride it looks toed out. Im going to try adjusting it all the way in and see what happens . Its odd that one side is only half way in but the other is screwed all the way in. If that doesnt work Ill give scott a call . They really do have pretty good customer service there.
Catvos builds good stuff and props to them for getting something out for the pioneer as quick as they did.
I'm definitely happy with the lift, just gotta figure this one thing out . They have great customer service.
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Did he say it would definitely make contact and only when fully compressed? I wonder what it would take to reach that point with 500 lbs of extra weight in the back ( couple of passengers and gear). I was planning on running the OEM wheels, new ones are not in the budget. Kit came in yesterday and I am dying to get it installed, having reservations with this wheel concern. Might just try the rear install and pull the shocks to check the clearance while fully stuffed.
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I'll end up getting spacers for all 4 corners. My problem is that the lift is in my possession, many of my riding partners come back for R&R today and I finish mine in a week ( we work 2 week on/ 2 week off schedules), I want to show off the Pioneer, but won't be able have wheel spacers delivered before I leave. Waited 2 weeks for the lift, another 3 before I can install it would kill me!
It should only rub under a heavy load or maybe jumping the rig where the ass-end hits hard or bottoms out, might scrape up the wheels and arms a bit, but I doubt it'll hurt them as long as you're relatively careful.
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Going to give it a shot. Just got all the silt off the machines from yesterdays ride. I'll find out on the next few rides if it will work without the spacers. If not, I'll have 2 weeks for spacers to be delivered before my next R&R.
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Decided to tinker in the garage and install the rear arms. Pretty straightforward. Little over an hour to get it installed. Trickiest part was getting joints into the pocket on the frame. All the holes lined up well. I'll get it aligned after the front install, then maybe pull the rear shocks and check for clearance issues.
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Didn't think to check the toe in or camber before the install. Any body know what those should be set at or are we just shooting for plumb and straight ahead?
joeymt33
i4WD=imitated 4WD
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I'm not sure what the OEM specs are as I haven't received my shop manual yet but I set camber straight and the toe is set very slightly in to prevent any "wandering" at high speeds.
Also, I didn't check mine either prior to the installation. I wouldn't be surprised if it was out of spec anyway from Honda.
Also, I didn't check mine either prior to the installation. I wouldn't be surprised if it was out of spec anyway from Honda.
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Did you get your issue resolved?
I noticed the same thing after I got the machine back on the ground. Also noticed the right rear was just about touching the rim. After a few attempts a trying to get the toe right, I made a call to Catvos.
Talked to Scott, hes says start with the hiem joint 3 turns out on the front and rear of the arms. You should only need to adjust camber, as the factory upper arms have no adjustments.
Explained the other issue I had. He says I have one of the kits from the first batch. My understanding is that mine is the last kit from the run, that was unaccounted for. He will be shipping me a new pair of rear arms in the morning, as it was late afternoon when I spoke with him.
I haven't done the front, put the stock rear arms back so I can ride. I asked about clamps for the front brake lines, he says most people use 175lb zip ties, but will be sending me clamps with the new rear arms.
Hats off to Scott and Catvos for their customer service. I was leery at first when I saw the free shipping, but placed my order anyway. Usually I would get a call or email saying "we can't ship it there" or " its going to cost you extra", at least $100 for a box that size. They held up to their end of the bargain.
What is different about the old rear a-arms and the new ones? I did get the left pretty close but the adjustment is screwwed all the way in The right side is only half way in. I dont think it will hurt anything being that way. I believe I'm the second kit they sold so I wonder if theres a issue with mine.
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Scott said the old jig didn't have stops for the outer bar, which allowed it to be welded a little farther forward or back. That shouldn't affect the toe, only the clearance with the wheels. All the mounting points had set points in the jig, so they should be right.
The bottom bar is the one that could have be welded too far forward or back.
Tflynn
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Tflynn
Not a liberal
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