P1000 CATVOS Pioneer 1000, 3 Inch Lift Install!

joeymt33

joeymt33

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This is not a full step by step for the install but it should be a big help for anyone performing the task alone. Plan for 5-6 hours.

Unpack the box and check for everything. I was missing the instructions so they emailed me a copy.
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Jack it up and remove tires.
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I'll show the front first. Remove the lower shock bolt.
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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I then removed the hub nut. Throw away the cotter pin. Plan on using a new one.

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Let's start removing the brakes now. Remove the two caliper bolts and slid the caliper off.
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Store it in a place where it won't be hanging by the hose.
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Then remove the brake pads and be caliper bracket. These bolts are tight, Honda used thread lock compound.
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Here's what it looks like with the brakes out of the way. And with the caliper bracket removed, the hub will slide off.
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Next remove the lower A-arm from the frame.
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With the lower A-arm detached, you can swing it up high and they axle will come out of the knuckle. Now you can access the ball joint nuts.
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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After you remove the ball joint nuts, you will need to use a mini sledge to bang on the arms to free the ball joint from the knuckle. Don't hit the threads, just hit the arm close to the ball joint. Here's a pic of the lower arm removed and the upper arm detached from the knuckle. Leave the tie rod attached and swing the knuckle out of the way.
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Now remove the upper A-arm. It is held on by one long bolt that goes thru both joints.
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You will need to remove the upper ball joint and re-use it. A press will help greatly with this. A hammer could be used but it could be damaged.
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Press the joint into the new arm

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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Find ya some of this... You can see the left over red loc-tite that Honda used. I put some on all threads that Honda did.
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I used the thread locker on the upper arm frame mounts. Here's a pic of it installed.
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Now attach the upper arm to the knuckle
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Now attach the lower A-arm to the knuckle
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Use new cotter pins!
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Now you can slip the axle back into the knuckle by lifting the whole assembly up.
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Here's the lower arm attached to the frame.
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Now it's time to attach the shock to the upper A-arm. I had a problem here, the shock mount was too narrow for the shock. It was only like this on one side.
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A little massaging from a mini sledge and repainting, it fit ok.
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Now install the hub with a new cotter pin
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09d8c8a81787fd93ef4a1fe1ead0a41c
 
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Now you can install the caliper bracket with thread locker on the two bolts.
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Next is to install the brake pads.
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Then use medium strength thread locker for the caliper.
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3813501e73c700bbe3febaca85672417
 
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Next step is to secure the brake line. WHAT?! $1500 dollar lift and no way to secure the brake line. This is not good. I have plans to do something different but I really don't want to weld on the arms and weaken the metal since I can't heat treat it. I noticed that lowes has 175lb capacity cable ties. I may use those even though what I've got on there is pretty good.
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Now do all that work over again on the other side and the front will be done.
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Now time for the back. It should be easier.....yeah right.

Remove the bolt for the lower A-arm to knuckle.
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Remove lower shock bolt
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Remove the lower bolt for the sway bar
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Now remove the two bolts for the arm to the frame. It should come out pretty easy. Have a pry bar handy.
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Install the new lower arm onto the frame
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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While installing the lower arm, you may notice that it's too narrow. You can see in this pic that the joint doesn't line up with the frame. Only on one side, the other side was good. (Did I mention that this lift is $1500?) anyway, a little time in the press and the arm fits fine.

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Now you can swing the arm back to the knuckle. This is the next problem. The bolt holes don't line up.
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With a little prying and banging it went on.

Ok, now let's attach the shock to the lower arm. DAYUM! This bracket doesn't fit the shock. The holes are too low. I had to grind, drill, and cuss to get it to fit.

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Another pic from the other side
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joeymt33

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Ok, after a break, it's time to do the other side just the same way.

After getting both sides done, you can re attach the sway bar. Should be easy right? Nope, again one side was good and the other side was not good. The mounting tab was not positioned properly.

In these pics you can see that it is too close to the axle.
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I beat it into submission and then had to fix the threads.
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Here are the comparing measurements of both sides sway bar mount. They are 1/2" off!
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D42d5b05d1a4c87955c33aa994be96c9
 
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Here's some finished pics of the install.

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86a24ab8411a3f86863a35609dcaef9e
 
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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Now that the install is done, you get to ride for a short distance and settle the suspension. After returning, you may find that camber and toe need to be adjusted.

Front end is way out. On both toe and camber.
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The back is out too.
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Now you'll have to remove the lower arm from the frame on all corners that need camber adjustments. You can adjust the Heim joints to correct it. It may take several attempts at adjusting and riding to get it right.
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C5a9627be3d5741993b8219fe7f673d5
 
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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After several attempts, you'll get it right.

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Bb183620d553eca5c7466d99170fea02

Overall, I'm ok with the fitment because I'm equipped to jump hurdles along the way. For the lack of quality on the positioning of things, it should have been a lot cheaper. I thought I was buying a top end product with a top end price. Actually, I bought a middle of the pack product with high end pricing.

I can't comment on the performance as the whole family has a stomach bug so I'll have to report back later.

I do plan on sharing the pictures and problems with CATVOS in hopes that it will prevent someone else from having the same issues.
 
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Justin7372

Justin7372

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Excellelent write up Joey. Hopefully CATVOS fixes those issues. You shouldnt have to deal with problems like that for the kind of money they charge.
 
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Marine660

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Awesome write up!! I am shocked at all the issues and those are things that should never happen. I can see 1/8" off but inches!

Makes me not want to consider catavos at all. Please report ride quality and how catavos responds to these quality control and figment issues.
 
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joeymt33

joeymt33

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I will report back in a week or so. I'm in GA working all next week so it will be a little while.

I have driven it around my property for ~5 miles. Things I noticed are you can definitely tell the 30" tires zap power. However, it will still spin them on concrete. With these 8ply tires, the vehicle feels more stable despite it being taller. (I experienced the same thing going to 8ply tires on my P700)

Braking seems to be affected as well, it still brakes good though as the OEM brakes are strong.

There will be more to come as I get some more seat time.
 
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PioneerPete

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Awesome job @joeymt33 ! Thanks for taking one for the team! Can't wait to see it in action. You'll have to carve some time out to come up and ride AMA with us as soon as your family is well and the weather warms up a bit.
 
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AK_Centurion

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Great info! Bummer that the kit didn't fit perfectly. I guess there goes my plan of having it completely installed while the wife is at work. Machine is still new enough, I don't think she will notice the extra height. Mine should show up tomorrow.
 
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PioneerPete

PioneerPete

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Great info! Bummer that the kit didn't fit perfectly. I guess there goes my plan of having it completely installed while the wife is at work. Machine is still new enough, I don't think she will notice the extra height. Mine should show up tomorrow.
haha, I feel ya on the wife part. I have all my parts shipped to my buddy's house, and then do all my mods over there. She has no idea that all those lights and switches weren't stock. And most importantly, she has no idea how much they cost!lol
 
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