Eltobgi
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Eltobgi
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Club Contributor
May I recommend...
It allows you to combine your batteries and it will kill all power to your Rig just in case there is a draw coming from somewhere...&
You'll be glad you did!
With both of these I guarantee your problems will be gone...happy fishing!
It allows you to combine your batteries and it will kill all power to your Rig just in case there is a draw coming from somewhere...&
You'll be glad you did!
With both of these I guarantee your problems will be gone...happy fishing!
C
caddyman
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Not saying this will cure any problems but i am a true believer in using battery tenders. Especially in the winter and extensive winch use. The computer is always drawing something off the battery as well. I would agree there is probably an issue with the battery or something else. Amsoil has 0W-40 oil. The 0W is supposed to work in place of anything calling for 10W rating. I used in my previous Grizzly 700 and had no issues and better cold weather starts. Not sure if you can use this type of oil in the pioneer. For the record I am not an amsoil dealer nor affiliated with them. Below is link to info on oil
Formula 4-Stroke Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil
Formula 4-Stroke Power Sports Synthetic Motor Oil
I agree with the Battery Tender comment. I think keeping the battery "smart charged" is healthy for them.
AKRider
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I keep a battery tender on all my machines year-round, and they are stored in the garage.
Just wanted to post what the Amsoil technicians said in response to what oils are recommended for the HONDA Pioneers....
AMSOIL recommendations for the 2016 Pioneer 1000 are:
· Motor: ATV/UTV 10W-40 Motor Oil (AUV40) approx. 5.8 qts.
· The secondary recommendation is Formula 4-stroke 0W-40 (AFF)
· Transmission: ATV/UTV 10W-40 Motor Oil (AUV40) approx. 1.26 qts.
Thank you for contacting us. If you have further comments or concerns, please contact us again.
Byron Selbrede
Technical Services
Now the info is listed for anyone that comes across this.
AMSOIL recommendations for the 2016 Pioneer 1000 are:
· Motor: ATV/UTV 10W-40 Motor Oil (AUV40) approx. 5.8 qts.
· The secondary recommendation is Formula 4-stroke 0W-40 (AFF)
· Transmission: ATV/UTV 10W-40 Motor Oil (AUV40) approx. 1.26 qts.
Thank you for contacting us. If you have further comments or concerns, please contact us again.
Byron Selbrede
Technical Services
Now the info is listed for anyone that comes across this.
In my limited experience
-25 no way (have to jump off my 17 YO power stroke which is GTG)
-14 kinda way ( a wiff of either helps)
0 every time no problem
Stock battery
Edit Sitting cold all night inside and outside
-25 no way (have to jump off my 17 YO power stroke which is GTG)
-14 kinda way ( a wiff of either helps)
0 every time no problem
Stock battery
Edit Sitting cold all night inside and outside
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Another quick thought on cold weather starting. Last year my wife's CRV suddenly quit being easy to start when outside temps dipped into the very low teens. We are off grid so no block heaters. Her Honda went from not an issue to start to "better get the jumper cables" overnight. After puzzling over this for a few days (and really getting tired of cranky starts) I started the what have you changed, if anything analysis. The answer was my wife started using a higher octane grade gas (less volatile) because it would be better in cold weather. We switched back to the cheapest grade and problem solved. It starts reluctantly down to -25 now.
I fuel my P1000 from locally pumped ethanol free hi test that goes in everything non automotive that I am betting makes it harder to start in cold weather.
I fuel my P1000 from locally pumped ethanol free hi test that goes in everything non automotive that I am betting makes it harder to start in cold weather.
Two more, completely disappointing starting days for me. Yesterday -2.5f* P1000 sat in unheated interior storage, for three, days. 45 minutes to start with adequate amperage to crank supplied with an alternate source. For reference, my diesel bobcat started with no problems that morning.This morning -12f* but ran all day yesterday so it was put to bed with a fully charged battery, another 45 minute ordeal. It sucks to have made a $20k plus investment to provide cold weather service that is such a complete failure in cold weather.I have a friend that used to work at Honda R&D in Torrance CA and am familiar with what standards that Honda (used to?) sets.I think the starter has inadequate cranking torque for the oil quantity and viscosity at these temps. If I keep this nonstarter (pun intended) I'm stock up on spare starters thats for sure. A business tool is now just a toy ; (
popeye
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Bigger battery, dual batterys, or a block heater might help.
Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk
Dual batteries are coming for sure. A block heater isn't of much use to me if I have to leave my P1k on a remote trailhead overnight rather than trailer it back to a warm shop. I made a mistake by assuming this Honda was engineered as well as my wifes car. My last two described starting attempts were with the starter having all the cranking amps it needed. I literally could have cranked it until the starter motor burnt out. It just can not seem to achieve the proper rpms to start when cold. Deeply disappointed. I discussed with my dealer, and he mentioned lower viscosity oil but didn't seem too sure. Changing from a winter oil to a summer oil is kinda like the 60s called and want their design tech back to me. My last hope is to go with a lower grade fuel.
Some success! Mixed about 1/2 regular pump gas (with the ethanol free premium in the tank) and she fired right up, at,-4.7f* this AM. Time for road patrol after yesterday's blizzard so I can get an idea of how many 1000s of cubic yards of snow need to be moved today.
Corona1
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E
ethanol.........had the same experience with my wifes CRV then she ran non ethanol premium. im guessing premium is not volatile enough at low temperatures. Thanks EPA.
As has been said before on this and many forums... higher octane gas is a waste of money on engines that don't specifically require it. Higher octane gas only means it withstands higher compression before detonation without spark. Whomever came up with the term "premium" for high octane should be drawn and quartered. High compression engines require high octane gas or they will experience pre-ignition detonation (knock). 87 octane gas is recommended for the P1000 (possibly even lower at high altitude).
the term "premium" SHOULD be used to describe ethanol-free gas, no matter the octane rating.. but sadly that's not the case.
the term "premium" SHOULD be used to describe ethanol-free gas, no matter the octane rating.. but sadly that's not the case.
Agree 100% I keep a supply of ethanol free around for gensets, welder, chainsaws etc. Unfortunately it is only available in premium. At 9000'ASL we get by with lower octane. Lesson learned......again.
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