P1000 Dealer Installing Dual Battery System, BUT....

[Nvrgiveup]

After reviewing videos for over a month (I'm mechanically and electrically retarded), I finally decided to have the dealer install the dual battery system. He advised he only installs what he sells, which is the Moose Utility Battery Isolator Kit, and instead of wiring to a fuse panel, he uses the "Terminal Tender" to connect accessory wires directly to the auxiliary battery. This means all connections to the auxiliary battery are constantly hot.
While this isn't a huge deal for me, I know that I will be adding a switch panel (preferably with illuminated rockers) in a couple of months. This means those rockers will be illuminated even with the key off.
Here's my question.....Am I able to add a stinger relay and an auxiliary fuse box after the fact so that everything running off the auxiliary battery are only powered when the key is on?

 

[Admin]

 

[bumperm]

After reading the ad copy for Moose, I could not find the installation instructions to verify, it looks like the Moose is more of a load regulator than an isolator . . . though it obviously is providing at least some degree isolation too. What I read suggests the Moose's purpose is to allow the aux battery to augment the needs of the main battery system (when the current draw is more than the electric generation system can provide). This is basically allowing two dissimilar batteries to function, on demand, as if they were connected in parallel.

My recommendation would be to find someone else to do the work. It's more desirable to move all the accessories, including the winch etc., to the aux battery. Also to have both key-on and always on fused circuits available.

 

[Scoop]

I hope you have not authorized this moron of a dealer to work on your bike. You're paying someone - likely an inflated rate - to do something to your bike that you will not be satisfied with.

I'm sure there are folks who live near who would be more than happy to lend a hand. Heck, if we lived closer to one another, I'd do it for nothing more than a few beers.

 

[TxDoc]

Just a suggestion.

Look around for a reliable, well respected audio installer. Someone who does cars, boats, RVs.

Either they can do it as they understand the same idea that's used on cars and boats running auxiliary batteries with their sound and video systems.

We have a local specialist that does cars, boats, RVs, planes, and UTVs from locals to ask over the United States and Canada.

A Fed Ex executive flew two brand new SxS from Alaska to Dallas and trucked them here. They did over $100,000 in upgrades, including a $35,000 sound system with custom boxes built with a system that is a 3D or 4D CNC saw system. I've seen the results, but not watched it run. Then they were crated back up and returned them to Alaska.

It's just a matter of asking around and you'll find a knowledgeable, competent person who will do you a job that's not a rat's nest, but rather looks factory original or very custom.

Good luck on your project

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[StewB]

What they all said above.

You'll be far happier with the setup you want, rather than what that guy tells you he'll do. I'll bet it's cheaper, too.
There must be a boat, RV shop, or other UTV dealer around who can do the work you want. I understand you don't feel it's your thing, but it is not a big deal for boat, RV or UTV mechanics. It's pretty straightforward.

Wholly agree you should have all add ons run off the auxiliary battery from a fuse box with an isolator. I thought I was done with my adds, then I decided I wanted back up lights. It was great to have a fuse box for the easy add.

But who the hell flies SxS's from Alaska to Texas for over $100,000 in upgrades? If he'd have called, I would have driven the parts to Alaska and done it for $95,000, plus 3 weeks housing and a fishing license.

 

[Hillbillytnt]

Adding an extra battery to these things is one of the easiest mods you can do to anything with one of the kits. Don’t overthink it. Go under the hood use the factory 2 nd ground. And then it’s 3cables

 

[Hondasxs]

Adding an extra battery to these things is one of the easiest mods you can do to anything with one of the kits. Don’t overthink it. Go under the hood use the factory 2 nd ground. And then it’s 3cables

Yes.. exactly.

That's what drives me nuts... lol.

Consider it TWO systems. And install it as TWO systems.

1- the dual battery system. (Battery & isolator)

Then
2 - the accessory system. (Fuse block, stinger, relays, switches.)

Otherwise you are adding to the confusion that you yourself create.

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[Hondasxs]

Sorry for my short rant. Lol

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[Nvrgiveup]

Yes.. exactly.

That's what drives me nuts... lol.

Consider it TWO systems. And install it as TWO systems.

1- the dual battery system. (Battery & isolator)

Then
2 - the accessory system. (Fuse block, stinger, relays, switches.)

Otherwise you are adding to the confusion that you yourself create.

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Geez! I apologize for being so mechanically retarded.


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[Hondasxs]

Am I able to add a stinger relay and an auxiliary fuse box after the fact so that everything running off the auxiliary battery are only powered when the key is on?

I'm sorry.. i know it gets confusing. I apologize. I was just excited to see the other posters reply that I always try to say when discussing these systems.

To answer this. Yes. You can install a large relay, such as a stinger, inbetween the second battery and the fuse box. You can then choose to trigger it via key-on always, switched, or both.
Then the fuse box would only have power when told to. This is how most do it.

 

[Nvrgiveup]

Oh I know bud. You don’t have to apologize. Trust me, I wish with everything within me that I’d paid attention when my dad was working on cars in the driveway and tried to teach me stuff. I was too interested in getting finished so I could borrow the car, pump $5 with of gas in it, and chase wimmen all weekend!
Now he’s gone and is no longer a phone call away.
I took the stuff back to the dealer today and canceled the installation there. I am ordering the kit from y’all and will do that first, then it’s back to Robert Sparre’s YouTube video for the stinger and fuse box install.


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[Hillbillytnt]

Take it in steps. Do the isolator 1st. The true kit without the meter is one red cable from positive side of original battery to isolator and one from isolator to positive side of 2nd battery. One small ground from isolator to 2nd battery. Then hook the ground that came installed to 2nd battery. The kit includes all the cables ready made. If you want a meter you will need some way to control it. buy the plug and play key on harness from the club store and I’m sure someone will walk you through that. It’s just a few more wires.

 

[john790]

For those who cant dont worry about it find someone you can trust. Talk it over with them and see if they are good with it and let them do it.To much money in it plus might not be trail worthy.Joe

 

[Prntckt]

This forum has a wealth of information. There are many people here who can help you through installation issues.

 

[Scoop]

I took the stuff back to the dealer today and canceled the installation there. I am ordering the kit from y’all and will do that first, then it’s back to Robert Sparre’s YouTube video for the stinger and fuse box install.

Good choice. Not only will you end up with what you really want/need (eventually), you'll learn a lot about your bike.

Forget the Stinger - you'll have issues when the temps drop. Get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Nvrgiveup]

Good choice. Not only will you end up with what you really want/need (eventually), you'll learn a lot about your bike.

Forget the Stinger - you'll have issues when the temps drop. Get this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q8KONI?tag=sxsweb24-20

Thanks bud. Everything should be delivered this week so I can start installing it soon. Picked up the vent line extensions from a guy in here who sells them, too. Merry Christmas to me!


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[john790]

Well good for you.I dont know about the relay that scoop is using. But like a 30 amp relay used in most cars for running lights and other stuff you can lay it out on our table and see how it works with a 9 volt battery for a radio.Usally a 9 volt has enough power to pull your relays in to ck what your are doing. Just get a 12 volt test light and you should be good.Joe

 

[Scoop]

Well good for you.I dont know about the relay that scoop is using. But like a 30 amp relay used in most cars for running lights and other stuff you can lay it out on our table and see how it works with a 9 volt battery for a radio.Usally a 9 volt has enough power to pull your relays in to ck what your are doing. Just get a 12 volt test light and you should be good.Joe

It's better than the POS Stinger. Marine rated and won't freeze up.

 

[john790]

I just dont know if 9 volts will pull it in depends on the coil

 

[WagginTail]

It's better than the POS Stinger. Marine rated and won't freeze up.

Yep