The switch illumination wire can go to the switched (key on) side and the accessory (light bar, etc) can go to the second battery. That's how mine is set up.
G
They make rocker panel with a on and off switch. This solve your constant power problem . I put a six panel on my Honda s x s and then run each of them to fuse panel. That was each item that I add will be fused. And yes mine is illuminated as well.
Scoop
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Except when you leave that on/off switch in the 'on' position, which means any accessories you have 'on' will continue to draw power. Relying on making sure a manual switch is in the "off" position every time you leave your bike is downright silly. We're human, we'll forget.
The optimal setup for powering and controlling your aftermarket accessories is a second battery, an isolator, and a key-on powered continuous relay (e.g., Stinger, Cole Hersee, etc.) that energizes a fuse block to which most every accessory is wired. The only accessories you don't wire to the fuse block are any high amp draw wires (e.g., winch), but you DO have the switch wire (on/off) for the high amp draw items wired to the fuse block.
Illumination should be wired from something that's energized only when the key is on. Ideally, everything else should be key-on powered as well, except if you absolutely want to power it 24x7. For example, some prefer to be able to run their winch even when the key-on power is off.
I'll add that if you have your winch power available key-off (a good idea IMO, and how my SE model came from factory - though I switched it over to the aux bat I added), AND you have a wireless receiver for the winch, it's a good idea to have panel switched power for that wireless receiver, the switch connected to always on power. The reason for this is there have been some reports of RFI (radio frequency interference) activating the winch un-commanded. This could obviously be a bad thing and could damage stuff. I used a small 3/4 round rocker switch for winch radio receiver power.
Scoop
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A
That’s great advice! Thanks.Just a suggestion.
Look around for a reliable, well respected audio installer. Someone who does cars, boats, RVs.
Either they can do it as they understand the same idea that's used on cars and boats running auxiliary batteries with their sound and video systems.
We have a local specialist that does cars, boats, RVs, planes, and UTVs from locals to ask over the United States and Canada.
A Fed Ex executive flew two brand new SxS from Alaska to Dallas and trucked them here. They did over $100,000 in upgrades, including a $35,000 sound system with custom boxes built with a system that is a 3D or 4D CNC saw system. I've seen the results, but not watched it run. Then they were crated back up and returned them to Alaska.
It's just a matter of asking around and you'll find a knowledgeable, competent person who will do you a job that's not a rat's nest, but rather looks factory original or very custom.
Good luck on your project
Sent from my moto z4 using Tapatalk
B
Anyboby think i can run a axuilary power to a RV type battery and delete the isolater and just charge after use like a RV house battery? and not use a isolater
Mark in Northern Iowa
Well-Known Member
Club Contributor
The easy answer is yes.
But with that yes, comes a question, Why?
You can get a cheap $20 VSR from Amazon and be done.
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Edit to add
You did not say what type of "RV type battery"
IF you run most batteries down to far, you will likely damage the battery.
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Have a good day
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