P1000 Dual Battery Question?

[Sparky74]

Trying to figure out if I really need to add a second battery or not. I am planning on adding the following items:

1) 1 - 6 ft. Lighted Whip
2) 2 Rear Flood Lights, 4" LED, 18 Watts total
3) 2 Front Facing, 4" LED, Spot/Flood Combos.
4) 1 Dome Light LED
5) Debating about adding turn signals. This is still undecided!

It's not like all are going to be on at the same time. At night the Lighted Whip for sure and the Front LED Spot/Flood Combos. The rest will just be used occasionally or as needed. Any help and assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Scott

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondoman]

For what you have listed I probably would not. If adding a winch and/or stereo (amp) then I would.

Although it is nice having a second battery backup being out in the boonies away from camp.

 

[Neohio]

Trying to figure out if I really need to add a second battery or not. I am planning on adding the following items:

1) 1 - 6 ft. Lighted Whip
2) 2 Rear Flood Lights, 4" LED, 18 Watts total
3) 2 Front Facing, 4" LED, Spot/Flood Combos.
4) 1 Dome Light LED
5) Debating about adding turn signals. This is still undecided!

It's not like all are going to be on at the same time. At night the Lighted Whip for sure and the Front LED Spot/Flood Combos. The rest will just be used occasionally or as needed. Any help and assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Scott

If you choose to only run with the factory battery, I suggest having one of those pocket boost packs with you. Never know when you may inadvertently run the battery too low to start your machine.

 

[JTW]

Yes.. yes you do. If you’re going to add that stuff, you’ll end up adding more. Like a winch after the first time you get stuck in a 2000lbs machine. The transmission is finicky about voltage.

 

[Sparky74]

Right now I have NO plans on adding a winch or stereo. This should be the limit of my electrical add-on's.

 

[JTW]

You’re going to want/need a winch..

 

[RedFred1]

Here is my thought... Why not just upgrade the stock battery? Such a small added load would not be a problem for a battery with a little extra capacity. If you ever did the winch... you would be in good shape for adding a second battery if needed.

This is what I am using...

Old Battery GYZ16H = 16AH, New Battery VMax V30-800 = 30AH

Right now I am in the process of adding a winch, fan and a few lights. I am going to make the new large capacity battery the main and the original battery the 2nd circuit for lights, fan, etc. Winch is on the main battery.

HTH...

FredD

 

[JTW]

Here is my thought... Why not just upgrade the stock battery? Such a small added load would not be a problem for a battery with a little extra capacity. If you ever did the winch... you would be in good shape for adding a second battery if needed.

This is what I am using...

Old Battery GYZ16H = 16AH, New Battery VMax V30-800 = 30AH

Right now I am in the process of adding a winch, fan and a few lights. I am going to make the new large capacity battery the main and the original battery the 2nd circuit for lights, fan, etc. Winch is on the main battery.

HTH...

FredD

Some do run a single optima battery under the seat.

 

[RedFred1]

Thanks JTW! I saw several threads about that... I don't want to go that route. I am using the Honda mounting wiring for the winch and it all routes to under the front hood cover nicely. I am going to install my larger battery in the deep well on the top left side area under the hood... that battery I mentioned fits that area perfectly. I will add some wire extensions to the wiring harness to attach the new battery and will install new wiring and an isolator, relay, fuse panel, etc. to allow use of the original battery for the second circuit.

FredD

 

[RedFred1]

Scott...

Sometimes you can get a feel for what you want to, or need to, do by calculating the load (power usage) you are adding to the battery. You can use this formula to calculate the amps of each circuit, useful to select the correct fuse size, and add that to the total amps already demanded by the electrical system. You also need amps to determine the proper wire size for the circuit you are installing.

amps = watts / volts

Many handy calculators can be found online... here is one.
Calculate/Convert Watts, Volts, Amps & Ohms - Electrical Usage Calculator

This one is good for determining wire size based on amp draw.
American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

As you stated, these are not full time loads and you probably wont use them all at once, but your peak power demand, everything on, should be used as part of your calculations when figuring current requirements.

HTH!

FredD

 

[Sparky74]

Scott...

Sometimes you can get a feel for what you want to, or need to, do by calculating the load (power usage) you are adding to the battery. You can use this formula to calculate the amps of each circuit, useful to select the correct fuse size, and add that to the total amps already demanded by the electrical system. You also need amps to determine the proper wire size for the circuit you are installing.

amps = watts / volts

Many handy calculators can be found online... here is one.
Calculate/Convert Watts, Volts, Amps & Ohms - Electrical Usage Calculator

This one is good for determining wire size based on amp draw.
American Wire Gauge Chart and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits table with skin depth frequencies and wire breaking strength

As you stated, these are not full time loads and you probably wont use them all at once, but your peak power demand, everything on, should be used as part of your calculations when figuring current requirements.

HTH!

FredD

Fred, Thanks for the information and help. Knew someone would provide the info and advise I needed. These forums are Great!!

Thanks Again, Scott

 

[RedFred1]

No worries! I am new to this forum as well... but not new to electrical/electronics or automotive stuff. Glad you found it useful.

FredD

 

[mjn]

I'm adding the second battery this week. I'll end up with the following for acc's;

*front LED spot/floods (either a pair of smaller, or the 24" rigid bar I already own)
*rear LED's for backing up
*Bilge fan under the seat
*side lights
*interior lights
*winch
*Possibly tunes at some point..

My personal opinion is the winch is the #1 most important add-on you can do for a side by side. Unlike my ATV, I can't get off and simply lift the front or back up to get unstuck. You get stuck in a 1600+ lb machine, and you are going to need either a winch, or a buddy with a tow rope. My wife and I ride a lot by ourselves, so a winch is a must.

Keep in mind, my M.O. is "overkill". But that mindset has always proven helpful..

 

[OnTheJob]

My advice if you're not going to use a second battery with a winch: When winching yourself out, don't try and power out with the throttle or your electronic DCT transmission may not respond well to potential voltage drops/draws/demand from the winch. Keep an eye on your voltage meter and you should be fine. The winch has a thirst for volts/amps/watts

 

[Tigermark]

Yes.. yes you do. If you’re going to add that stuff, you’ll end up adding more. Like a winch after the first time you get stuck in a 2000lbs machine. The transmission is finicky about voltage.

You’re correct sir! Voltage drop/ fluctuations can cause lots of issues with the machine , especially if you connected a winch to the primary battery. The charging system cannot keep up with the amp draw.

My advice is Do Not connect anything to the factory electrical system. Go with a dual battery setup with an isolator. It will help prevent issues and keep you from getting stranded

 

[RedFred1]

My thought is that I have used the Honda winch installation kit and wiring harnesses. I am installing it as stated in the honda provided installation guides. I also installed the horn and back up alarm using their kits and wiring harness. Also as stated by them in their guide. The only change I have made to the stock wiring is that it now goes to a deep cycle 300ah battery. I am using battery cables to move the battery connections so they reach my battery placed on the top left side of the wiring bay in the deep hole provided for it by them in their design.

In theory, their design should work using the stock battery... if not they would/should have made that comment in their installation guides and I would have grounds to give them the raft of sh!t they would so richly deserve if it is problematic.

Now, because I am a pragmatist, I can see that might just cause me some issues under heavy load and extreme conditions. That little ~150ah battery and ~45 amp alternator is now fully loaded with very little room for any extra draw. Something has gotta give, most likely the battery voltage, under full current draw. Not good. So the new deep cycle battery should handle all that load including the winch.

So, to continue to cater to my pragmatic side, I am leaving the original battery in its stock location and adding the breakers, isolator, relays and 10 position fuse block to power my engine cooling fan, lights, radio, etc. including switches and battery volt meters as others have done.

If this arrangement should prove insufficient, it will be an easy matter to change one battery's function for another with a few wires.

Also, consider this... I do not drive hard or long distance. I do not run in mud or water. Just around my 20 acre farm. I would prefer that the bigger battery be engaged all the time and not held back as reserve for a few small accessories and part time winch duty or fail over duty should the main battery become drained.

Your comments are appreciated!

FredD

 

[trigger]

If this arrangement should prove insufficient, it will be an easy matter to change one battery's function for another with a few wires.

I'd start by leaving the starter function on the stock battery. That AGM you posted has a CCA of 280 which makes it a boat anchor in cold weather.

Also, consider this... I do not drive hard or long distance.

Short rides with an isolator means the second battery won't see much charge time unless you use a manual switch and keep both circuits open. In that case you're better off just wiring them in parallel but then they are not LIKE batteries and will charge/discharge at different rates.
Either way you go, I'd keep a tender on it. FWIW

 

[RedFred1]

Exactly... they are not alike so I want that isolator. Also, I have ordered a dual channel charger/tender as well. As you say, that lonely batter sitting idle will not get much of a workout with a fan and some lights. Not terribly cold here in NC in the winter, so no worries about "only" 280 cranking amps for cold starting. I started my Harleys and Indian on a whole lot less... especially from the garage or barn.

Thanks for the comments!

FredD

 

[Smitty335]

I'd start by leaving the starter function on the stock battery. That AGM you posted has a CCA of 280 which makes it a boat anchor in cold weather.



Short rides with an isolator means the second battery won't see much charge time unless you use a manual switch and keep both circuits open. In that case you're better off just wiring them in parallel but then they are not LIKE batteries and will charge/discharge at different rates.
Either way you go, I'd keep a tender on it. FWIW

The only thing I have on the primary battery is what came stock, The rest of the stuff is on the secondary battery with an isolator connecting the two batteries. I mess around the yard at night taking the pups for short rides with the whips and light bar going and have two separate voltage meters, at first I monitored them closely, the primary runs at 13.1 volts, the secondary runs a 13.0 volts with every thing on. I'm not experiencing the issues you are worried about?????

 

[OnTheJob]

My thought is that I have used the Honda winch installation kit and wiring harnesses. I am installing it as stated in the honda provided installation guides. I also installed the horn and back up alarm using their kits and wiring harness. Also as stated by them in their guide. The only change I have made to the stock wiring is that it now goes to a deep cycle 300ah battery. I am using battery cables to move the battery connections so they reach my battery placed on the top left side of the wiring bay in the deep hole provided for it by them in their design.

In theory, their design should work using the stock battery... if not they would/should have made that comment in their installation guides and I would have grounds to give them the raft of sh!t they would so richly deserve if it is problematic.

Now, because I am a pragmatist, I can see that might just cause me some issues under heavy load and extreme conditions. That little ~150ah battery and ~45 amp alternator is now fully loaded with very little room for any extra draw. Something has gotta give, most likely the battery voltage, under full current draw. Not good. So the new deep cycle battery should handle all that load including the winch.

So, to continue to cater to my pragmatic side, I am leaving the original battery in its stock location and adding the breakers, isolator, relays and 10 position fuse block to power my engine cooling fan, lights, radio, etc. including switches and battery volt meters as others have done.

If this arrangement should prove insufficient, it will be an easy matter to change one battery's function for another with a few wires.

Also, consider this... I do not drive hard or long distance. I do not run in mud or water. Just around my 20 acre farm. I would prefer that the bigger battery be engaged all the time and not held back as reserve for a few small accessories and part time winch duty or fail over duty should the main battery become drained.

Your comments are appreciated!

FredD

Boy this thread got hijacked!

Freddy boy sounds like your set up will be better than most on here. I thought about a much bigger second battery like what your describing because I thinks it's a smart idea. I went cheap to start off just to check things out. The OEM starting battery is embarrassingly weak, just the bare minimum for the job. The beauty of the isolator and battery tender is it will efficiently charge both batteries. Like Smitty, all my factory stock stuff is off the OEM battery. All my add ons are run by my second battery. It's nearly impossible to kill my OEM battery unless I do something really dumb like leave the lights/ignition etc on for an extended period. Back to the battery tender, it'll maintain both batteries. if you want to give the second battery a workout what about a marine battery switch: Batt 1, Batt 2, Both, off. Keeps them both charged and you can pick who gets to work today. If one drains, the other is available.

My set up: P1000 - OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near"