P1000 OnTheJob's P1K-3 Build: "The Pie-O-Near"

[mjn]

When I got her home, I took off the netting. I immediately started pouring through the second battery set ups. I went with the cheaper Mighty Maxx battery because up here in Upstate, NY the cold kills the batteries in 3-5 years unless you store them indoors. I can already tell I'm going to have to replace the main battery because it struggles on really colder days when it's in the single digits either side of zero degrees. Some of it was trial an error but here is my shopping list, all purchased on Amazon or eBay:
Mighty Maxx Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNM75Y/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Tru dual battery kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WRG2U58/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Bussman Circuit breaker 100 amp https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139FQSS/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Blue Sea fuse panel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Stinger relay switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HC6UJ0/?tag=sxsweb24-20
6 gauge copper wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MD1ZGKO/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Blue Sea Bussbar https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OTJ8A0/?tag=sxsweb24-20
Copper lugs 1/4" and #10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Y7H1DL/?tag=sxsweb24-20

More to follow. Time to cook burger on The Big Green Egg

@OnTheJob
Okay... yesterday, I ordered the Mighty Maxx battery, the tru dual battery kit, the Blue sea fuse panel, and the blue sea bussbar. I didn't see the need for the Stinger relay switch or the 100 amp circuit breaker.

Now, I see why the Stinger relay would be important... so the fuse panel doesn't have any power until the key is turned on, right? Did you tap into the same black/white wire out of the loom to power the Stinger?

I figure I can get the wire and copper lugs here in town, but @OnTheJob ,what is the reasoning for the 100 amp Bussman circuit breaker??

hopefully I'm doing this on Tuesday/weds this next week..

 

[mjn]

View attachment 66341

As you can see I had to move my battery tender. Running out of under hood mounting options. The wireless remote is kinda funny but now I get why they do it. Each time you want to use it, you have to hold both buttons down for 3+ seconds for it to turn on and connect. No accidental activations this way. It feels sturdy but there is a delay when using it. NO mater how quick you press the button you get more than 1.5" in either direction.
.......

@OnTheJob
Another question.. the winch switch on the right.. Power wire goes over to the Blue Sea fuse panel on the left.. ground wire over to the ground bussbar in the back left, correct?
what amp fuse is in that fuse box for the winch? (I just ordered the same fuse box)

Also, do you have your second battery grounded on that bussbar too?

Just trying to get all this sh!t straight in my head before I tackle this job.

 

[OnTheJob]

@OnTheJob
Okay... yesterday, I ordered the Mighty Maxx battery, the tru dual battery kit, the Blue sea fuse panel, and the blue sea bussbar. I didn't see the need for the Stinger relay switch or the 100 amp circuit breaker.

Now, I see why the Stinger relay would be important... so the fuse panel doesn't have any power until the key is turned on, right? Did you tap into the same black/white wire out of the loom to power the Stinger?

I figure I can get the wire and copper lugs here in town, but @OnTheJob ,what is the reasoning for the 100 amp Bussman circuit breaker??

hopefully I'm doing this on Tuesday/weds this next week..

#1 The 100 amp circuit breaker is not at all needed, just a convenience and safety thing for me. While working on the AUX side of the electrical I can turn it off from the under the hood without disconnecting anything. I can also shut of that side for long term storage so no can fiddle with the switches from the passenger compartment (small humans)

#2 The Stinger I have is powered from a 3 way switch on the dash panel. This way I can turn on the Stinger with either key on power or second battery alone or off whether key is on or not. It is grounded to the negative bussbar on the left. In your case you can connect the black/white ACC wire directly to the Stinger and the ground to the bussbar. When you key on, your Blue Sea will power up.

#3 The winch switch does NOT go through the fuse panel. Its purpose to cut power to the winch IN/OUT rocker switch so it is NOT live all the time in case that rocker is accidentally bumped by (insert: small humans or inebriated adults). So the winch switch just runs in between a power wire to the IN/OUT rocker switch. Again, not needed at all but just a redundancy safety measure. No ground wire for the winch switch (except if you want your switches lighted). The IN/OUT rocker switch is a plug and play connection to the winch solenoid.

#4 The second battery has its own single ground wire back to the engine. The bussbar ground back to the second battery.

Hope that helps! Good luck!

 

[mjn]

#2 The Stinger I have is powered from a 3 way switch on the dash panel. This way I can turn on the Stinger with either key on power or second battery alone or off whether key is on or not. It is grounded to the negative bussbar on the left. In your case you can connect the black/white ACC wire directly to the Stinger and the ground to the bussbar. When you key on, your Blue Sea will power up.

#3 The winch switch does NOT go through the fuse panel. Its purpose to cut power to the winch IN/OUT rocker switch so it is NOT live all the time in case that rocker is accidentally bumped by (insert: small humans or inebriated adults). So the winch switch just runs in between a power wire to the IN/OUT rocker switch. Again, not needed at all but just a redundancy safety measure. No ground wire for the winch switch (except if you want your switches lighted). The IN/OUT rocker switch is a plug and play connection to the winch solenoid.

#4 The second battery has its own single ground wire back to the engine. The bussbar ground back to the second battery.

Hope that helps! Good luck!

Thanks so much for the reply!

2.) I'm going to use the blk/wht acc wire to power my switch panel LED's & the lights in each switch, would you just tap into that same wire & run it over to the Stinger, or would you do a separate tap for it from the blk/wht wire?

3.) I miss spoke. I meant the winch power wire. Your winch wires (blue & yellow) go up into the underhood area to the winch relay(?) the red power wire goes from there over to the fuse box. I see now (after looking closer) that it isn't fused, it's hooked onto the same bolt as the fusebox power supply. Did you run the ground wire from that relay (?) to the ground bussbar?

4.) so if I get this right.. you have a ground wire from the second battery to the motor, and another ground wire from the grounding bussbar to the motor also?
Did you use the motor for ground like the OE battery does? if so, how much of a PITA is it to get to? & how much black wire will I need.. (6 guage?)

Again, Thank you!

 

[OnTheJob]

Windshield Wiper Installation

It's been a while since I've added anything. I know I'm going to want a powered windshield wiper because I plan on plowing in the winter and a couple times riding in the rain so far I kinda wish I had one. I also plan on adding fabric doors for the winter months to complete enclosing the cab. The wiper isn't cheap but what Honda accessory is.

Honda 0SE10-HL4-500 - Best Price on Honda WINDSHIELD WIPER KIT Parts at BikeBandit.com
$249 (OUCH!) The kits comes with a switch that is not lighted for the Honda Accessory Panel, which I don't have.

Rocker switch 544B2 12V Wiper Washer ON-OFF-ON blue 20A DPDT | eBay
$15 to match the other switches. I didn't need it to be an on-off-on, I am swapping out the face plates for just an on-off body.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NF0ICSO/?tag=sxsweb24-20
$9 It's a relay that parks the wiper for you when you turn the switch off. Worked perfectly.

The kit doesn't come with instructions so had to look them up on the Honda Accessory website and print them out. I started by mounting the wiper motor to my Honda glass windshield which was a piece of cake. I needed help from my 7 year old to hold the motor in place inside the cab while I put the washers and nuts on. That was the easy part.

I had to do some research on this website to see how this is wired without having the "required" Honda fuse/switch panel. Once again I have thanks those before me that figured this all out:

P700 - Wiper Wiring Diagram

That's where I found out I needed to purchase that relay above. That diagram is spot on.

The wiring took me just over an hour. I created a wire harness that went from dash switch, the relay, Blue Sea fuse panel and the wiper motor (I cut off the plug and worked with the bare wires). Believe it or not I got the whole thing done right the first time. One thing I did that I didn't see anyone do is I fused the wiper motor (10 amp fuse) and the power to the switch (7.5 amp fuse) separately at the fuse panel. Someone said the Honda fuse panel has a 7.5 amp fuse for the wiper but that is at the switch which opens the relay. The wiper motor is wired separately to 12v so I put a fuse there too. Not sure if it's needed or if that is the correct amp fuse. I couldn't find any info and what that motor draws. This was a pretty easy install at just over 2 hours.

 

[OnTheJob]

Thanks so much for the reply!

2.) I'm going to use the blk/wht acc wire to power my switch panel LED's & the lights in each switch, would you just tap into that same wire & run it over to the Stinger, or would you do a separate tap for it from the blk/wht wire?

3.) I miss spoke. I meant the winch power wire. Your winch wires (blue & yellow) go up into the underhood area to the winch relay(?) the red power wire goes from there over to the fuse box. I see now (after looking closer) that it isn't fused, it's hooked onto the same bolt as the fusebox power supply. Did you run the ground wire from that relay (?) to the ground bussbar?

4.) so if I get this right.. you have a ground wire from the second battery to the motor, and another ground wire from the grounding bussbar to the motor also?
Did you use the motor for ground like the OE battery does? if so, how much of a PITA is it to get to? & how much black wire will I need.. (6 guage?)

Again, Thank you!

#2 I don't see a problem using the same black/white ACC tap. I believe there are two black/white ACC wires but what you are describing will draw very little. I'm not certain how much juice the Stinger needs but switch LED's barely draw anything. I thing you are fine.

#3 Blue and yellow go from the winch relay directly to the winch up front. The winch relay/solenoid/switch on the far right is what all four big wires connect to and the smaller wires connect to the IN/OUT rocker. Red and black go directly to the pos/neg terminals of the second battery. In one of the first photos, I wired the red winch wire to the Blue Sea hot terminal (no fuse) but that was wrong. The winch would be limited to how much power it go so I directly connected it to the positive terminal post of the second battery so nothing between it and the winch for maximum available amps/watts from the second battery.

#4 Yes/No. Yes, a 6 ga grounding wire from the neg terminal of second battery to the engine grounding point shared by the main battery. Yeah, it was long, like 5-6 feet long down through the floorboards and under the seat. It wasn't that bad to run it, just had to pop put some plastic rivets for access. No, the grounding bussbar had a 6 ga. wire to the neg. terminal of the second battery. I bought 10' of red and 10' of black for my build and I still have a little leftover:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MD1ZGKO/?tag=sxsweb24-20

I hope this helps and I don't mind the questions at all. Have fun!

 

[mjn]

Awesome. Thanks again man!

 

[mjn]

@OnTheJob

What did you use to secure the second battery? I would imagine some thin foam of some sort would be smart on the bottom & sides (if there's room) then what did you use to hold the battery in place? I plan on continuing to use the plastic cover over the air inlet, as it has the bumper to support the hood. I see you've cut off the vertical "fins" on that cover for a place to mount the fuse panel.. I'll probably do the same..

 

[OnTheJob]

@OnTheJob

What did you use to secure the second battery? I would imagine some thin foam of some sort would be smart on the bottom & sides (if there's room) then what did you use to hold the battery in place? I plan on continuing to use the plastic cover over the air inlet, as it has the bumper to support the hood. I see you've cut off the vertical "fins" on that cover for a place to mount the fuse panel.. I'll probably do the same..

Sadly, I have not properly secured the second battery, yet. I know the importance, but I just haven't come up with a with an easy solution that I like. That being said, this is a farm/property rig. The wheels don't leave the ground and mostly I'm crawling along at 5 mph, with occasional bursts to 30 mph in open fields. I hit 45 mph once on the paved road. Let me know if you come up with a cool solution because I'm all game.

 

[mjn]

Sadly, I have not properly secured the second battery, yet. I know the importance, but I just haven't come up with a with an easy solution that I like. That being said, this is a farm/property rig. The wheels don't leave the ground and mostly I'm crawling along at 5 mph, with occasional bursts to 30 mph in open fields. I hit 45 mph once on the paved road. Let me know if you come up with a cool solution because I'm all game.

Roger that.

 

[OnTheJob]

Roger that.

How you liking the i-4WD? It was tempting but I got the ESP pretty cheap. That might be the next build.

 

[mjn]

How you liking the i-4WD? It was tempting but I got the ESP pretty cheap. That might be the next build.

I love it so far. Works flawlessly.

I haven't taken it on any real technical trails yet, but a few of the steep, rutted skid roads where I used to put the Viking in 4W lock.. this thing has walked up without an issue.

 

[mjn]

@OnTheJob

Just to confirm: Stinger is between the second battery and the fuse panel, correct?

 

[OnTheJob]

@OnTheJob

Just to confirm: Stinger is between the second battery and the fuse panel, correct?

Correct

 

[RedFred1]

Sadly, I have not properly secured the second battery, yet. I know the importance, but I just haven't come up with a with an easy solution that I like. That being said, this is a farm/property rig. The wheels don't leave the ground and mostly I'm crawling along at 5 mph, with occasional bursts to 30 mph in open fields. I hit 45 mph once on the paved road. Let me know if you come up with a cool solution because I'm all game.

I am going to use one of these and make a hook to attach the free end and just clamp or bolt the retained end... if it is good enough for a CBK, it is good enough for me!

GENUINE HONDA BATTERY BAND 'F' RUBBER 95012-17001 | eBay

 

[OnTheJob]

Engine Bilge Fan

Next on my list was a reversible engine fan. Upstate NY sees temps up in the mid 90's on a regular bases and down to the single digits to below zero occasionally. I have the heat shield kit under the seat when I did the vent line extensions.

" The Original " Honda Pioneer 1000 Heat Shield's 1&2 + Vent Extension Package | eBay

$22:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3T7IJU/?tag=sxsweb24-20

A couple times this summer the seat got warm but not unbearable. I like having an enclosure because of the of changing weather up here. I also plan on plowing this winter and enclosing the cab with fabric doors that I only intend on having on during the winter months. So I wanted to have an engine fan that was reversible: One way cools the engine, off, the other way heats the cab.

I was unsure about a marine bilge blower in the engine compartment because of the severe heat and moisture. I haven't seen anything about the engine melting a bilge fan yet but I wanted to try this when I found this cheap option. It keeps the fan motor in the cooler drier cab. This one also pushes 3X air than most bilge blowers and was half the cost so I thought I'd give it a try.

It sticks out into the cab about 2.5" but it's not a problem at all for me where it is. I sat in the middle to check it out and it wouldn't affect a third passenger. What I don't like is the ugly duct tape I had to temporarily use to close that gap. I'd like to come up with a better solution for that.

I bought a DPDT switch that I wired to be able to reverse the direction of the fan. Wiring the switch was actually pretty easy. I fused it at 15 amps because I saw somewhere they spike up to 120 watts at start up and then 80 watts continuously running normally.

The fan blades are directional so I flipped them so they push air towards the engine compartment. Wow it does push a lot of air. It is noisier than I'd hoped but once the engine is running you don't notice it. It'd be cool to put some sort of "dimmer switch" next to it to regulate the fan speed.

When I reverse the fan it blows plenty of air into the cab. I took it out for a hard ride in 75 degree weather and tried to get the engine hot. It does blow some pretty warm air into the cab. The seat never got warm at all. I'd like to try it out in some 90 degree temps and colder temps to see if this was worth it. I have a feeling it will do its job.

The positives are it blows a lot of air so no more hot seat and it was a cheap/easy mod. The negatives is it is noisy (but so is the whole machine) and ugly. If I get annoyed looking at it, I'm considering mounting/flipping it to the inside of the seat and putting a grille on the passenger side. Not sure how that would hold up exposed to heat/mud/water. Just a thought. I'll probably get use to it. Next I'm going to try and find a way to defrost the windshield for the coming winter months.

 

[RedFred1]

Well done Sir!

I mounted mine inside the seat frame... I made a few L brackets and attached my fan, similar to yours, to them.

Cooling fan

I purchased one of these to mount to the seat base...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NuTone-834-Round-Microwave-Range-Hood-Vent-Aluminum-Grease-Filter-Replacement/371145239260?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I am just going to drill some holes in the seat base to allow the air to come through... then mount the filter.

I, too, bought a switch to reverse as you have. My only concern there is the LED lights on the switch are tied to the switch lugs. If the polarity is reversed, those little LEDs will pass smoke.

I took the switch apart... hehheh, I just had too... inside the case the small LED circuit board is connected to the lugs by springs and not wires. I am pulling the springs to prevent the LEDS from lighting while I test it.

FredD

 

[OnTheJob]

Well done Sir!

I mounted mine inside the seat frame... I made a few L brackets and attached my fan, similar to yours, to them.

Cooling fan

I purchased one of these to mount to the seat base...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NuTone-834-Round-Microwave-Range-Hood-Vent-Aluminum-Grease-Filter-Replacement/371145239260?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I am just going to drill some holes in the seat base to allow the air to come through... then mount the filter.

I, too, bought a switch to reverse as you have. My only concern there is the LED lights on the switch are tied to the switch lugs. If the polarity is reversed, those little LEDs will pass smoke.

I took the switch apart... hehheh, I just had too... inside the case the small LED circuit board is connected to the lugs by springs and not wires. I am pulling the springs to prevent the LEDS from lighting while I test it.

FredD

Nicely done. I must've missed that post because I had not seen anyone try this same fan yet. My LEDs on the switch appear to be handling it so far. I ran the fan continuously for about 30 minutes yesterday trying both directions.

 

[RedFred1]

Can't take credit for the idea, I got that from someone elses post...

Good news on the switch, I will be a little less hesitant to try it!

Thanks,

FredD

 

[OnTheJob]

So didn't like looking at the duct tape so I put bead of black silicone in the gap and smooth it out. Looks much cleaner.

I posted this concept on the Pioneer Facebook page and a couple comments were made it would not survive water. I'm trying to upload the video of a water intrusion test I did to YouTube and I'll post the link in 2 hours and 29 minutes......

And then some said it would be too noisy so i did a sound test as well:

I'm happy with it so far.