P1000 Dual battery setup

[A_Sutley]

hey everyone just wondering how I'm going to get everything to fit under the hood. Has anyone ever Velcro'd the fuse block to the second battery? Any issues anyone could think of doing this?? Also, for a master on-off-on switch where to the power leads come from? The stinger? Thanks in advance.

 

[Admin]

 

[TripleB]

View attachment 143083 View attachment 143082 hey everyone just wondering how I'm going to get everything to fit under the hood. Has anyone ever Velcro'd the fuse block to the second battery? Any issues anyone could think of doing this?? Also, for a master on-off-on switch where to the power leads come from? The stinger? Thanks in advance.

I used a dremel and ground off the plastic fins on the air intake box and screwed it down there.

 

[A_Sutley]

I used a dremel and ground off the plastic fins on the air intake box and screwed it down there.

I was just rolling that thought around in my head.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I used 3m double side tape to hold my fuse box on top. No movement, no issue.

 

[sharp]

View attachment 143083 View attachment 143082 hey everyone just wondering how I'm going to get everything to fit under the hood. Has anyone ever Velcro'd the fuse block to the second battery? Any issues anyone could think of doing this?? Also, for a master on-off-on switch where to the power leads come from? The stinger? Thanks in advance.

I velcro'ed mine to the battery, its perfect. Use the waterproof velcro if you do.

 

[Tigermark]

View attachment 143083 View attachment 143082 hey everyone just wondering how I'm going to get everything to fit under the hood. Has anyone ever Velcro'd the fuse block to the second battery? Any issues anyone could think of doing this?? Also, for a master on-off-on switch where to the power leads come from? The stinger? Thanks in advance.

The master switch is what you will use to power on the stinger , activating it to power your auxiliary fuse block. I ran the power lead for the master switch directly to the primary battery.

 

[A_Sutley]

I velcro'ed mine to the battery, its perfect. Use the waterproof velcro if you do.

That's what I bought. Didn't know if there would b a heat issue or not

 

[A_Sutley]

The master switch is what you will use to power on the stinger , activating it to power your auxiliary fuse block. I ran the power lead for the master switch directly to the primary battery.[/QUOT

So the top two terminals on the stinger, one will come from the secondary battery and the other goes to the positive on the fuse block. Then the two little terminals, one will be a ground and the other will go to the master switch? So how do u separate key on power and no key power with the switch?

 

[Tigermark]

On the my 3 seater I used a on-off rocker switch , on the 5seater I used a on-off push button switch. These switches had constant power from direct connection to the primary battery. I used these switches to activate the stinger to power the auxiliary fuse block used for your accessories. In this scenario, you don’t need a key on power source. Yes, you use the small terminals. One is ground, one is power from master switch. Master switch has constant power.

 

[Soaz1000]

I velcroed mine to the battery but I sure gave alot of thought towards cutting the fins off. Still might do that if I don't like where it's at now.

 

[A_Sutley]

On the my 3 seater I used a on-off rocker switch , on the 5seater I used a on-off push button switch. These switches had constant power from direct connection to the primary battery. I used these switches to activate the stinger to power the auxiliary fuse block used for your accessories. In this scenario, you don’t need a key on power source. Yes, you use the small terminals. One is ground, one is power from master switch. Master switch has constant power.

Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the dual batteries? If your drawing power from the primary for the secondary? In my mind, you system doesn't really need the switch or the
Stinger. Maybe I'm just confused.

 

[Tigermark]

Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the dual batteries? If your drawing power from the primary for the secondary? In my mind, you system doesn't really need the switch or the
Stinger. Maybe I'm just confused.

The power to the master switch is minimal. All it does is activate the stinger, all the power draw for the accessories comes from auxiliary fuse block. You are correct, you don’t necessarily have to use a master switch or stinger. The stinger is only used so you can deactivate the main switch panel so it doesn’t have constant power going to it.

 

[A_Sutley]

so I got everything in. (Except the dpdt master switch, gave up on it for now.) everything seems to work as far as I can tell except the blue light from the isolator remains on after the machine is s*** off. Any thoughts???

 

[Landman]

View attachment 143426 so I got everything in. (Except the dpdt master switch, gave up on it for now.) everything seems to work as far as I can tell except the blue light from the isolator remains on after the machine is s*** off. Any thoughts???

It stays on until the main battery drops low enough to close the connection in the isolator.

 

[A_Sutley]

It stays on until the main battery drops low enough to close the connection in the isolator.

Thanks!! I've had my voltmeter all over the place trying to figure it out.

 

[Landman]

Thanks!! I've had my voltmeter all over the place trying to figure it out.

I think it closes around 12.8 or 12.9 volts on the main, then the light will turn off.