P500 Engine Oil

[hambone]

Hello,
I was pondering on engine oil. I saw on forum it recommends 10W30.
I have always used Valvoline ATV oil 10W40.
Any thoughts?

 

[Admin]

 

[ohanacreek]

The thicker oil makes the 700 shift incorrectly until up to full operating temp.

Use what Honda recommends they engineered it that way for a reason. I use the Honda oil, the reason being Honda is known for longevity why would they undermine this reputation in any way?

 

[Rex Herring]

My Honda book shows 10W30 for normal, 5W30 for real cold and, 10W40 for real hot weather.

 

[bigc]

i would use the honda hp4s oil its worth the price

 

[hambone]

I looked at manual, for temperature range I am in it says 10W40 is fine.
I used the Valvoline ATV oil like I have always used in my Honda products.
I road well over 100 miles on trails in southeast Kentucky now and haven't had any issues.
I have well over 6,000 miles on my Rubicon using that same oil with same result.
Just my opinion, doesn't reflect the views of the staff and/or management

 

[Montecresto]

I looked at manual, for temperature range I am in it says 10W40 is fine.
I used the Valvoline ATV oil like I have always used in my Honda products.
I road well over 100 miles on trails in southeast Kentucky now and haven't had any issues.
I have well over 6,000 miles on my Rubicon using that same oil with same result.
Just my opinion, doesn't reflect the views of the staff and/or management

10-30 Mobile 1 or Rotella synthetic.

 

[Crookedcreek]

10-30 Mobile 1 or Rotella synthetic.

I used Rotella T6 5w-40. As I have read in many other "discussions" on the use of T6 in cycle products, I noticed an immediate change in the smoothness in shifting gears, no more "clunk".

 

[Montecresto]

I used Rotella T6 5w-40. As I have read in many other "discussions" on the use of T6 in cycle products, I noticed an immediate change in the smoothness in shifting gears, no more "clunk".

That sounds good too. Is T6 synthetic?

 

[sthomp54]

Im using T6 as well, its fully synthetic. I do notice some minor ticking of the valves during cold startup but it goes away after the engine warms up. Not sure if the valves need adjusting or just the 5w when cold...

 

[joeymt33]

That sounds good too. Is T6 synthetic?

Rotella T6 can be labeled as a synthetic thru a loop hole. But it's not truly a synthetic oil. Only oils tier 4 and higher are true synthetics. T6 is a tier 3 oil which is highly refined crude oil that can be labeled "synthetic".

Tier 4 oils are made by companies like Amsoil.

Here is an interesting thread I made a while back if you're curious:

Oil education

 

[Montecresto]

Rotella T6 can be labeled as a synthetic thru a loop hole. But it's not truly a synthetic oil. Only oils tier 4 and higher are true synthetics. T6 is a tier 3 oil which is highly refined crude oil that can be labeled "synthetic".

Tier 4 oils are made by companies like Amsoil.

Here is an interesting thread I made a while back if you're curious:

Oil education

Wow! Just read your op in the linked to thread. Very impressed, excellent right up and obviously very useful information. I too have heard mechanics say that such in such weight is too thin, lol. Uhg, this is why I drive new vehicles. But we probably have some mechanics here, So to cut to the chase, what do you run in your P-500, 5W-30/5W-40 true synthetic?????

 

[joeymt33]

I use Honda HP4S which is a tier 3 oil but still very good. It's a 10-30 wt.

I don't believe that for our application the tier 4 oils are worth the price. There are many applications where those high priced oils should be used though. I like to use tier 3 oils in my vehicles and change them often. That way I'm performing vehicle inspections more often and will catch water in oil or low fluid somewhere etc.

 

[Montecresto]

I use Honda HP4S which is a tier 3 oil but still very good. It's a 10-30 wt.

I don't believe that for our application the tier 4 oils are worth the price. There are many applications where those high priced oils should be used though. I like to use tier 3 oils in my vehicles and change them often. That way I'm performing vehicle inspections more often and will catch water in oil or low fluid somewhere etc.

So then a 10W-30 Mobile 1 synthetic is fine after all??

 

[sthomp54]

So then a 10W-30 Mobile 1 synthetic is fine after all??

Needs to be JASO MA spec, I dont think regular Mobile 1 is, but they do make motorcycle oil that is I believe.

 

[Montecresto]

Needs to be JASO MA spec, I dont think regular Mobile 1 is, but they do make motorcycle oil that is I believe.

Indeed, they do and claim that it exceeds Japanese automotive standards organisation specs.

 

[Gem99Ultra]

Rotella T6 can be labeled as a synthetic thru a loop hole. But it's not truly a synthetic oil. Only oils tier 4 and higher are true synthetics. T6 is a tier 3 oil which is highly refined crude oil that can be labeled "synthetic".

Tier 4 oils are made by companies like Amsoil.

Here is an interesting thread I made a while back if you're curious:

Oil education

Very good article - written in a language that even I can understand! From what I get, AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils would be the preferred oil. Is that what you pick up out of the article?

 

[joeymt33]

So then a 10W-30 Mobile 1 synthetic is fine after all??

It's a good oil, I use it often when Walmart has a sale on it. I just don't use it in my pioneer.

Needs to be JASO MA spec, I dont think regular Mobile 1 is, but they do make motorcycle oil that is I believe.

He speaks he truth!

 

[joeymt33]

Very good article - written in a language that even I can understand! From what I get, AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils would be the preferred oil. Is that what you pick up out of the article?

If you don't care about cost and only want the best, that is true.

I put almost 300,000 miles on my last ford truck using only conventional oil or tier 3 oils. I never spend the money for the Amsoil. That engine was perfect, not even a slight ticking sound. No leaks, anywhere and I never had to remove the valve cover or oil pan. I sold it to someone that is still driving it today.

Now, over that same amount of miles I could have used a tier 4 oil and got the same results but I would have spent an additional ~$1500 for the price of their oil. To me, I don't see the benefit.

I recommend that you do what I have done. Choose a oil that is in your budget and after that oil is drained from your vehicle, send a sample to Blackstone Labs for a an oil analysis. I was told that by changing oil every 5000 miles on that particular vehicle is causing no wear. Therefore, Amsoil would not have been better. Now if they told me that the traces of metal are too high which means my oil was not doing its job, I would have chose a different oil or shortened my oil change interval. Where tier 4 oils shine is when you decide to go way over your oil change interval. There are also special condition like motocross when they do dry starts at the gate and launch immediately with zero idle time, tier 4 oils should be used.

If you are worried about sever riding conditions and think your tier 3 oil won't hold up, just check the manufactures viscosity charts. You will find the viscosity rating for 150°C for most oils. If you get your engine oil up to 150°C or 302°F you will probably have more issues to worry about. But, you can choose a oil that has a higher viscosity at those higher temps.

 

[Montecresto]

It's a good oil, I use it often when Walmart has a sale on it. I just don't use it in my pioneer.



He speaks he truth!

I can't even find it at Walmart, lol.

 

[RODNUT]

If you don't care about cost and only want the best, that is true.

I put almost 300,000 miles on my last ford truck using only conventional oil or tier 3 oils. I never spend the money for the Amsoil. That engine was perfect, not even a slight ticking sound. No leaks, anywhere and I never had to remove the valve cover or oil pan. I sold it to someone that is still driving it today.

Now, over that same amount of miles I could have used a tier 4 oil and got the same results but I would have spent an additional ~$1500 for the price of their oil. To me, I don't see the benefit.

I recommend that you do what I have done. Choose a oil that is in your budget and after that oil is drained from your vehicle, send a sample to Blackstone Labs for a an oil analysis. I was told that by changing oil every 5000 miles on that particular vehicle is causing no wear. Therefore, Amsoil would not have been better. Now if they told me that the traces of metal are too high which means my oil was not doing its job, I would have chose a different oil or shortened my oil change interval. Where tier 4 oils shine is when you decide to go way over your oil change interval. There are also special condition like motocross when they do dry starts at the gate and launch immediately with zero idle time, tier 4 oils should be used.

If you are worried about sever riding conditions and think your tier 3 oil won't hold up, just check the manufactures viscosity charts. You will find the viscosity rating for 150°C for most oils. If you get your engine oil up to 150°C or 302°F you will probably have more issues to worry about. But, you can choose a oil that has a higher viscosity at those higher temps.

I have used amsoil 0-40 4 stroke (code AFF) full synthetic in all my off road vehicles, including my pioneer 500. Started using it in my 2002 forman 450 when it was new and has been in everything i've had. Great oil, totally sold on it, reduces required maintenance time as it lasts twice as long. Gives superior protection. Cost is about double but is offset due to the fact it lasts twice as long..