It had to of had some other twin setup on it to make that power. Factory twins will only breathe enough to make around 375-380whp on a good setup. With that redline it was a well balanced engine. What type of fuel setup did it have? Meth/gas, straight meth, or race fuel?
Definitely not. Especially in the summer I think many of the shops bump up their grade anyways. I know mine is running heavier grade Yamalube by the barrel in everything. They won't even use Honda. I'm not going to tell anyone to use this but damn I love how it is in mine. I haven't had time today to check with my warranty guy I will tomorrow for sure but it's all I had at let's say "slightly over" that 100 mark and I'm not wanting to go back. It's huge! Clicks have almost totally gone away and it shifts nice. I mean nice!!! It's way better at 450 then my last at 4 times that. I wasn't going to do it yet but...I would have called bs but it's true.
) and have it readily available all the time. I over extended my mileage and at that point I believe any oil is better but I'm just not buying the fact that synthetic is doing any damage to the clutches anymore there is nothing to support that as well as the cases have greatly diminished meaning to me it was a manufacturing error. I think fresh oil in general is a good thing and without a doubt the rig feels better in all aspects. If it's "legal" to run I'm going to continue use. All the jitter is gone,smooth very solid shifts,seems to grab better even if you are in high when you shouldn't be(watch one of our last weekends videos on the hill btw oops) and clicks are all but gone. Even the engine is super smooth and quiet. I'm amazed. I waited almost a year between the two pioneers because of everything. I'm not suggesting other then gn4 but it sure feels good. I know even the specialized 800$ auto wet clutch in my bike (that was installed in 07 with 12k miles requires Rotella for warranty that's what turned me on originally.
Yes I would, ran it in 2 Honda Rincons (original 630 then a newer 680 version like P700) for a combined 9 years and over 10K miles without issue, only had to let it warm up properly then everything was golden.
It's the diesel motor oil I use in my tractor. I only use t4 Mobile one motorcycle oil in the Pioneer that is great oil, but I would never use it in my car or truck. When Rotella t6 says on the bottle it's motorcycle oil than I may use it in my bike. I use gasoline in my car and diesel fuel in my tractor. This is not rocket science people. Pick the best oil designed for the application.
Thank you for checking into this. Now after the fact feel a bit foolish for not doing that myself, have called for other issues & always got an answer to my question from AmsOil - very good customer service. Will be rolling up on the 600 mile service soon & w/ this news plan to do the same.
but also curious to what you all are doing? (I am running T6 exclusively since my first service, OEM filters). Most of my use is at 8500' elevation or above, machine runs "cool", lots of dust/particulate. I drive like an old man (so I am told). We follow Honda's recommended drain intervals - which IMHO believe is over-kill w a synthetic oil?) Am I wasting oil?
Follow the intervals. Honda Engineers spend years testing engines and intervals to get the longest life out of the engines. Oil changes are relatively cheap compared to potential engine problems due to engine oil. 1200mile intervals will be roughly a years use depending on your situation. Even if you do not accumulate 1200 miles in a year, you should still change it once per rolling calender year.Gents!
I am curious as to what your oil change intervals are using synthetics? Are you following Hondas OEM oil intervals? Longer intervals? I understand the only true and best way to guarantee protection is via an oil analysis. I'm cheap too cheap for such
Some of the motorcycle crew (touring bikes/Goldwings) are using T6 and running 5k drain intervals. I know comparing the two machines (and their use/application) isn't quite comparing apples to apples.
