P1000 Holy wheel hop Batman!

[Superthrill]

We got a little over a foot of snow, so I load the P1000 up to go check out the roads. Rather steep where I live.

Man this thing has wheel hop something terrible! It goes well, but any amount of spinning, induces wheel hop.

 

[Admin]

 

[ToddACimer]

We got a little over a foot of snow, so I load the P1000 up to go check out the roads. Rather steep where I live.

Man this thing has wheel hop something terrible! It goes well, but any amount of spinning, induces wheel hop.

Lowering tire pressure and removing the rear sway bar helps a lot. I had similar complaints the first few rides in deep sand.

 

[JTW]

I had that issue the first wet snow I was in... I assumed it was just snowpack in the wheels.

 

[Plumber32]

We got a little over a foot of snow, so I load the P1000 up to go check out the roads. Rather steep where I live.

Man this thing has wheel hop something terrible! It goes well, but any amount of spinning, induces wheel hop.

Alot has to do with tires I've found a less aggressive tire doesn't seem to hop as much.

 

[ToddACimer]

Alot has to do with tires I've found a less aggressive tire doesn't seem to hop as much.

I haven't really had any hop since I switched from the Big Horns but I switched to Fox Shocks around the same time. I was curious if the load leveling shocks responded to wheel hop as a change in ride height and the valving caused tire hop. Either way I'm a lot happier now than with stock tires and shocks. Wheel hop drove me nuts stock

 

[Superthrill]

It is all stock. I did have about 200lbs in the bed. Wheel hop generally is a suspension design issue. In my offroad racing days and with my Rock Crawler, it has to do with antisquat and the suspension design. My rock Crawler can surf full power on and rockface with 42 inch tires and no hop.

 

[ODAMO]

I think that the wheel hop is the result of driveline windup. Any torsion seen in the driveline as it gets loaded gets released upon movement and starts to cycle. The more traction you have the more likely it is to occur. Stronger driveshafts and halfshafts can reduce or eliminate most of the wheel hop. Also if there are any rubber snubbers used in the driveline to reduce shock loading in the gears that helps propagate wheel hop also.

 

[Smitty335]

I think that the wheel hop is the result of driveline windup. Any torsion seen in the driveline as it gets loaded gets released upon movement and starts to cycle. The more traction you have the more likely it is to occur. Stronger driveshafts and halfshafts can reduce or eliminate most of the wheel hop. Also if there are any rubber snubbers used in the driveline to reduce shock loading in the gears that helps propagate wheel hop also.

You guys must not keep the MO up to maximum speed, no wheel hop here! HA!

 

[Superthrill]

Day 3 with no power and the only road in has been unpassable by vehicle. I made it out and back with chains at all 4 ends, spinning 3-4k rpm in my Cherrokee.

I get home, load up the wife and 2 neighbors in the P1000 to check on the people in our neighborhood. We are talking 1200 ft elevation change in 1 1/2 miles.

I finally figured out the P1000 and the wheel hop! Deepest snow was at my knees and we were pushing snow. In some of the wetter stuff at the bottom of the mountain, the wheel hop is worse.

Very little wheel hop in low, even at higher speeds. In high, it is like their is not enough torque to spin, so it loads up the suspension , then spins and unloads.

In low, it is like it loads up the suspension less and has enough torque to simply turn the tires.

I do believe better shocks would help with the loading and unloading of the suspension.

After I learned how to drive..... This thing was unstoppable in the snow! Made several runs to help people with gas for generators. Now half the neighborhood wants a Honda Pioneer!

 

[Smitty335]

I think that the wheel hop is the result of driveline windup. Any torsion seen in the driveline as it gets loaded gets released upon movement and starts to cycle. The more traction you have the more likely it is to occur. Stronger driveshafts and halfshafts can reduce or eliminate most of the wheel hop. Also if there are any rubber snubbers used in the driveline to reduce shock loading in the gears that helps propagate wheel hop also.

Really didn't understand all the wheel hop talk, All I have ever experienced is passenger hop. HA!!!!!

 

[Choogsbro]

I keep my hops in my cooler

 

[Superthrill]

I keep my hops in my cooler

Best place for them!

 

[Jiggs]

I agree, the Red Dog was unstoppable. We ran through 12" to 20" of fresh snow and a base of 5" or so. Ran it in Low with very little wheel hop. Love this P1k.

 

[BVerhulst]

It is all stock. I did have about 200lbs in the bed. Wheel hop generally is a suspension design issue. In my offroad racing days and with my Rock Crawler, it has to do with antisquat and the suspension design. My rock Crawler can surf full power on and rockface with 42 inch tires and no hop.

This is correct, but it's "Step 2", so to speak.
Step 1, the origin of wheel hop, is loss of traction. This is obviously caused by more power delivery than the tire/traction surface can sustain. The most exacerbated example of this condition is in sand, where your tires are sunk in, you gain subtle traction and begin to climb out of the hole, and then fall back into the hole when traction is lost. It's an excruciating slow-speed "hop". Yeah, also the bane of a rock crawler.
However, Step 2, even if traction is most excellent (e.g. a drag racer with pre-warmed tires on an ideal surface) yet you still break loose and experience wheel hop, this is because your engine is effectively "too powerful" (I know, I know, no such thing, but this is simply relative to the traction surface). Not so grossly overpowered that you do a full wheels-spinning-rooster-tail-flying take-off, but enough to get traction, break traction, regain traction, break traction, repeating cycle.
To fix the loss of traction with a low-power drivetrain (e.g. the Honda Pioneer), use low gear as many people have illustrated in this thread, or try a different tire that may perform better in snow, sand, or whatever medium gives you trouble.
To fix "too much power", suspension designs can remedy problems (e.g. bushings with less deflection, or geometry changes). Street 'rodders do this a lot, at the cost of harsh ride. Bear in mind, tires are part of the suspension system, so sidewall stiffness has an influence (watch a drag race car take off in slow motion, and observe the tire deflection).

 

[ODAMO]

All materials exhibit some degree of resistance to torsional twist when a rotational force is applied. Also, each material has a point, a moment if you will, which movement within the material starts to take place. In addition each material has an amount of movement within the material that can be tolerated before breaking. When traction comes and goes as it mostly does off road it causes the material ( shaft twist, gear deflection & backlash,) to accelerate and decelerate around the actual speed of rotation. This causes a hysteris and then as BVerhulst points out the type and amount of suspension helps add to it with flex in components, bushings and tire squish.
If the frequency of each components hysteris is similar it can add up to wheelhop or carnage.
Superthrill has the good fortune to be able to introduce enough torque to not just break free his traction, but be able to run right thru the point of adhesion and keep the drivetrain extremely torsionally loaded.
I currently don’t even own a Pioneer 1000 so I have to experience my wheelhop vicariously thru you guys. Thanks for that.