P500 Honda Accessory Subharness wiring question

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HP5NC

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I’ve got a question in relation to using the accessory subharness. I am about to wire my SuperAtv 3500 black ops winch up along with a digital volt meter. My question is, is an inline fuse needed when using the subharness? Or is there built in fuses already in place on the P5 when using the plug and play harness. The wiring coming off my solenoid to the subharness for key on power, would there need to be an inline fuse there? Also on the volt meter-two prongs off the back a positive and negative. Take the positive to one of the pig tales and ground the negative or run it to the battery. So in short with the subharness is an inline fuse needed when wiring into it or is it protected within the system already? Thanks....and sorry if some of my post and questions over lap. Just want to make sure I wire all this up correctly. Love hondasxs.com it’s a blessing.
 
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Accessory pigtail is fused from Honda, Not sure what rating you should fuse the winch.

Use a 5 amp fuse on voltmeter, use a common ground, or the same ground on winch contactor depending where you are mounting it.

I am not familiar with what is available under the 500 hood.
 
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Accessory pigtail is fused from Honda, Not sure what rating you should fuse the winch.

Use a 5 amp fuse on voltmeter, use a common ground, or the same ground on winch contactor depending where you are mounting it.

I am not familiar with what is available under the 500 hood.

Thanks for the reply. I’m putting a 150amp circuit breaker with a reset on the winch on the power cable from the solenoid to the battery, close to the battery as possible. The red wire coming off the solenoid is what will connect to the subharness pig tale for my “key on power” any need for a fuse on this wire? The digital volt meter also has two USB ports built in for a total of 5 volts I think it is. So should that positive wire coming from the meter have say a 10amp inline fuse going to another one of the available pig tales off the subharness? Does any of that make sense or am I over complicating this?
 
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Do your winch instructions specify a winch on the wire mentioned?
If I recall, I did not fuse the winch contactor wire.

On the usb hub, A 10 amp should be more than enough.
 
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HP5NC

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Do your winch instructions specify a winch on the wire mentioned?
If I recall, I did not fuse the winch contactor wire.

On the usb hub, A 10 amp should be more than enough.

According to the instructions on superatv website for the winch it says nothing about a fuse or circuit breaker in relation to wiring up their winch. Mind you it came with two six foot 8 gage sections of wire to wire it up with. I am replacing this wire with 4 gage and the lengths I need on the P5. So you think I need a fuse on the volt meter/usb hooking into the subharness
 
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According to the instructions on superatv website for the winch it says nothing about a fuse or circuit breaker in relation to wiring up their winch. Mind you it came with two six foot 8 gage sections of wire to wire it up with. I am replacing this wire with 4 gage and the lengths I need on the P5. So you think I need a fuse on the volt meter/usb hooking into the subharness
FUses are cheap insurance.
 
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HP5NC

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I agree, fuses are cheap insurance but that volt meter isn't pulling squat for power. If it didn't come with an inline fuse I wouldn't worry about it.

Yeah I was thinking it wouldn’t pull much power either. It didn’t come with any wires or fuses at all. Luckily I have the wire on hand for something like that. But I did buy some inline fuses on the way from work this evening. Got a 10amp mini fuse for the volt meter and a 30amp for the key on power wire for the wire coming from solenoid to subharness.
 
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I agree, fuses are cheap insurance but that volt meter isn't pulling squat for power. If it didn't come with an inline fuse I wouldn't worry about it.
The voltmeter has a USB charger integrated into it. It could put out as much as 2.1a per port.

Yeah I was thinking it wouldn’t pull much power either. It didn’t come with any wires or fuses at all. Luckily I have the wire on hand for something like that. But I did buy some inline fuses on the way from work this evening. Got a 10amp mini fuse for the volt meter and a 30amp for the key on power wire for the wire coming from solenoid to subharness.
I believe Honda has the sub harness protected with a 15 amp fuse. Using a 30amp is overkill and unless the wire dead shorts, I doubt it will ever blow. The 15a fuse will blow before the 30a.
 
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The voltmeter has a USB charger integrated into it. It could put out as much as 2.1a per port.


I believe Honda has the sub harness protected with a 15 amp fuse. Using a 30amp is overkill and unless the wire dead shorts, I doubt it will ever blow. The 15a fuse will blow before the 30a.

Ok good to know. I wasn’t sure if the accessory subharness was fused or not. I’ll just stick the inline 10amp mini fuse on the volt meter/usb to the subharness and call it good. The two USB ports are 2.1amps each so the 10amp should protect whatever I plug in an charge.
 
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Fuses or circuit breakers, or any other device which disconnects the power when there is an over current do not protect the appliance (winch, lights, gauges et cetera). The fuse protects The integrity of the insulation of the conductor for the section of the circuit it's protecting. If there is a fuse of appropriate size installed in series anywhere between the appliance and the battery there is no reason to install another one except as a means of disconnecting and therefore isolating an individual appliance.
Additional fuses do no harm, but if you have several fuses in series it may be a challenge to find the one that tripped if you loose power. If two or more tripped at the same time it could be very difficult.(do you remember the old fashioned Christmas tree light strings?)
It is important to have a fuse as close to the battery as possible as any wire between the battery and the fuse is not protected.
 

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