P1000 Honda Pioneer 1000 m3 sluggish response!

[sxs1000]

It’s hard to figure out with no lights flashing. I’ve never pressed mine to the floor. Does it run normal when you don’t press it to the floor. They are a high tech piece of equipment. If it runs normal when you don’t press it to the floor you might not have a problem computer controls everything. Charge your battery overnight. Make sure entire air intake is clear, check your oil level, check ground wires, good luck and remember their not race cars

It does run mostly fine right off the bat it sometimes won't go into gear right away and right when you press on the gass it feels like it takes a lot to start it moving, we had a another pioneer and as soon as you touched the gas it would take off..

 

[Admin]

 

[sxs1000]

Gasoline fueled internal combustion engines are not rocket science. Three fundamental things are required to run. Air, fuel, and spark all in the proper amount and at the correct time.

Fuel must be introduced into the incoming air stream at a ratio of approximately 14:1 air to fuel.

Edit: I first wrote 14% fuel then realized that was wrong. It's been a long time since I've used math any more complicated than addition and subtraction but I think a ratio of 14:1 is about 7% not 14%.

Compression of the mix occurs as the piston rises in the cylinder with valves closed and a spark is introduced at or just prior to top dead center.

When you floor the accelerator pedal do you see black smoke from the exhaust?

If yes the engine is being over fueled or intake air is blocked.

If no, the engine is fuel starved.

This most often occurs due to machine being parked or not used for long periods of time with the braindead congressionally-mandated ethanol gasoline. The fuel tank, fuel lines, and injectors may be fouled or the fuel pump is not pumping adequate supply of gasoline, or fuel filters are blocked.

It could have been sitting for a while.. we bought it at a auction, and ill check to see about the smoke

 

[sxs1000]

Gasoline fueled internal combustion engines are not rocket science. Three fundamental things are required to run. Air, fuel, and spark all in the proper amount and at the correct time.

Fuel must be introduced into the incoming air stream at a ratio of approximately 14:1 air to fuel.

Edit: I first wrote 14% fuel then realized that was wrong. It's been a long time since I've used math any more complicated than addition and subtraction but I think a ratio of 14:1 is about 7% not 14%.

Compression of the mix occurs as the piston rises in the cylinder with valves closed and a spark is introduced at or just prior to top dead center.

When you floor the accelerator pedal do you see black smoke from the exhaust?

If yes the engine is being over fueled or intake air is blocked.

If no, the engine is fuel starved.

This most often occurs due to machine being parked or not used for long periods of time with the braindead congressionally-mandated ethanol gasoline. The fuel tank, fuel lines, and injectors may be fouled or the fuel pump is not pumping adequate supply of gasoline, or fuel filters are blocked.

there isn't a hint of smoke!

 

[Farmer]

After watching the video it really seems electrical. It just dies like you hit the key. I'm not seeing the bog or nothing...just dead as soon as you punch it???

 

[sxs1000]

Well sometimes it will bog down then start revving up

 

[HBarlow]

there isn't a hint of smoke!

I know. That's what I expected.

I am not a trained Honda tech, am not a real mechanic, have not heard your buggy run, but in my opinion the problem is fouling caused by old gasoline left in the tank and lines.

It's a very common occurrence but owners are often unable to accept that answer and try to blame everything else.

 

[sxs1000]

Yea it could be! what do you do about it? I just filled the tank up and added some 3m complete fuel system cleaner

 

[HBarlow]

When that happens or is suspected, most owners drain their fuel tank completely and refill with fresh fuel containing a strong fuel system and injector cleaner. Chevron Techron used to be good but there are probably better commercial products that shops have access to.

I'm not familiar with the 3M product you mentioned. I can't advise you on that.

If that doesn't work the injectors may have to be removed and cleaned.

I haven't experienced the problem so you need someone with greater knowledge and skill than I can offer.

 

[sxs1000]

Ok thanks I keep running it and see if it clears up!

 

[sxs1000]

One other quick question. When you put it into gear, and let off the brake without pressing the gas shouldn't it start slowly moving kinda like a car?

 

[sxs1000]

I am thinking maybe the idle is to low because you can let it in gear, and it won't move at least not very much

 

[Smitty335]

One other quick question. When you put it into gear, and let off the brake without pressing the gas shouldn't it start slowly moving kinda like a car?

No.

 

[HBarlow]

One other quick question. When you put it into gear, and let off the brake without pressing the gas shouldn't it start slowly moving kinda like a car?

Probably not. Honda's DCT is not the same design as an ordinary car/truck automatic transmission.

A conventional automatic transmission uses a torque converter which is a fluid coupling. You can think of it as a two fan blade or two paddle wheels one attached to the engine crankshaft and the other to the transmission input shaft, both spinning in oil. It is not harmed when at high idle and the brake pedal is pressed. When the designed "stalls rpm" is reached, the "fan blades" hook up and turn at the same speed. The transmission input shaft spins at or near the same speed as the engine.

A DCT uses steel gears and two small clutch assemblies with flywheel, clutch friction plates, and springs. If the engine is spinning fast enough for the computer to tell the #1 clutch to begin engaging, the clutch is wearing and cannot survive long periods of clutch slippage.

The Honda engine should idle slow so the computer does not begin clutch engagement.

What this means is never put your Honda in a situation where you are applying throttle, causing the clutch to begin engagement but is slipping and trying to move the buggy, but an obstruction or load is preventing buggy movement. This can happen if you're climbing over a rock or log across your path. It's a surefire way to quickly destroy the ##1 clutch.

I'm a big fan of the Honda DCT transmission but I have to say, to use the DCT an owner/driver needs a fundamental understanding of the DCT that is not provided by dealerships. My guess is maybe 5% of Honda salesmen understand this and explain it to customers.

 

[Smitty335]

Probably not. Honda's DCT is not the same design as an ordinary car/truck automatic transmission.

A conventional automatic transmission uses a torque converter which is a fluid coupling. You can think of it as a two fan blade or two paddle wheels one attached to the engine crankshaft and the other to the transmission input shaft, both spinning in oil. It is not harmed when at high idle and the brake pedal is pressed. When the designed "stalls rpm" is reached, the "fan blades" hook up and turn at the same speed. The transmission input shaft spins at or near the same speed as the engine.

A DCT uses steel gears and two small clutch assemblies with flywheel, clutch friction plates, and springs. If the engine is spinning fast enough for the computer to tell the #1 clutch to begin engaging, the clutch is wearing and cannot survive long periods of clutch slippage.

The Honda engine should idle slow so the computer does not begin clutch engagement.

What this means is never put your Honda in a situation where you are applying throttle, causing the clutch to begin engagement but is slipping and trying to move the buggy, but an obstruction or load is preventing buggy movement. This can happen if you're climbing over a rock or log across your path. It's a surefire way to quickly destroy the ##1 clutch.

I'm a big fan of the Honda DCT transmission but I have to say, to use the DCT an owner/driver needs a fundamental understanding of the DCT that is not provided by dealerships. My guess is maybe 5% of Honda salesmen understand this and explain it to customers.

I think your being very generous with the 5%! HA!

 

[sxs1000]

Probably not. Honda's DCT is not the same design as an ordinary car/truck automatic transmission.

A conventional automatic transmission uses a torque converter which is a fluid coupling. You can think of it as a two fan blade or two paddle wheels one attached to the engine crankshaft and the other to the transmission input shaft, both spinning in oil. It is not harmed when at high idle and the brake pedal is pressed. When the designed "stalls rpm" is reached, the "fan blades" hook up and turn at the same speed. The transmission input shaft spins at or near the same speed as the engine.

A DCT uses steel gears and two small clutch assemblies with flywheel, clutch friction plates, and springs. If the engine is spinning fast enough for the computer to tell the #1 clutch to begin engaging, the clutch is wearing and cannot survive long periods of clutch slippage.

The Honda engine should idle slow so the computer does not begin clutch engagement.

What this means is never put your Honda in a situation where you are applying throttle, causing the clutch to begin engagement but is slipping and trying to move the buggy, but an obstruction or load is preventing buggy movement. This can happen if you're climbing over a rock or log across your path. It's a surefire way to quickly destroy the ##1 clutch.

I'm a big fan of the Honda DCT transmission but I have to say, to use the DCT an owner/driver needs a fundamental understanding of the DCT that is not provided by dealerships. My guess is maybe 5% of Honda salesmen understand this and explain it to customers.

Hey thanks for the info! the reason I thought that was because the 5 seater we had before would move as soon as you left off the brake!

 

[Brandyalexander55]

I have a Honda pioneer 1000 m3, when you push the accelerator to the floor it just bogs down to idling rpm, and sounds rough!
when you slowly press it down it revs up just fine. it also isn't very responsive when starting off. Any ideas what would be causing this would be
Greatly appreciated!! Josh

Josh, I have the same machine, same problem. For me the battery was draining and low voltage caused this problem. I had one battery. This happened in two different situations. The first when I installed that fan system that draws heat away from the seat and runs off a thermostat, I read about the system on this site….once I disconnected it I had no more battery drain. Now that system ($400.) sits in my boneyard.. the second situation was in the cold weather
( 32 and below) Once I hooked up my battery to a trickle charger at night in the barn it ran fine . What I did was install a second battery and a battery isolator and it’s good to go. There is so much dependent on electric voltage in these things that if the voltage drops all kinds of crazy stuff happens. Try trickle charging the battery at night. I also got a battery voltage monitor that you plug into the 12 volt outlet on Amazon , about 10 bucks…really easy way to watch what’s going on without installing a full blown battery monitor and gauge . My Pio 1000 is a farm vehicle, it’s utilitarian and looks like hell and it’s not the biggest thing in my life… I just need it to run to move manure and the like , not into the souped up fancy stuff like the under seat fan system …

I have a Honda pioneer 1000 m3, when you push the accelerator to the floor it just bogs down to idling rpm, and sounds rough!
when you slowly press it down it revs up just fine. it also isn't very responsive when starting off. Any ideas what would be causing this would be
Greatly appreciated!! Josh

should have stuck to my own philosophy and not bought it… boy ! There’s a lot of people out there that want to separate you from your money !!

 

[BrianM]

My first guess is fuel pump pressure or a clogged fuel filter. Do they have fuel filters? Second thing is possibly a problem with the exhaust like a baffle that has broken loose in the muffler and causing back pressure. When you accelerate slowly the pressure differential isn't enough to reposition it but a quick pressure change is. I had this happen on a truck once so it is possible.

 

[Ozmojo]

My first thought was a plugged fuel filter. The hard start and bogging down when you floor it are symptoms. The fuel pump sock might be the problem or possibly a weak fuel pump. If you have a pressure tester you find out if the pump is weak.

 

[HBarlow]

I've read other similar posts laying blame for hard starting, and poor engine performance on electrical issues. Perhaps the fuel injection system in our Hondas, which is controlled by a mini-computer, is very sensitive to battery voltage.

The standard OEM battery is small and probably has a modest storage capacity. If your Honda is not connected to a battery maintainer when not in use the battery is slowly dying.

I use and recommend one of hese:

Robot or human?

www.walmart.com

There are dozens of brands offered but the "Battery Tender" brand uses a four-stage charge and maintain cycle to maintain but never overcharge a battery.

I have several of them and have used them for years with good results.

 

[sxs1000]

My first guess is fuel pump pressure or a clogged fuel filter. Do they have fuel filters? Second thing is possibly a problem with the exhaust like a baffle that has broken loose in the muffler and causing back pressure. When you accelerate slowly the pressure differential isn't enough to reposition it but a quick pressure change is. I had this happen on a truck once so it is possible.

Yea, I removed the muffler just to make sure, and it still did the same thing