Talon Initial Maintenance Parts and Instructions - Honda Talon 1000

[viceversa]

I thought I'd create a thread to cover all of the parts which are needed for one to perform the initial (100 mile) maintenance along with instructions from the Honda Service Manual. Hope all of us new Talon owners find this helpful!

The initial service involves the following:

• Changing Engine/DCT oil.
• New Engine filter.
• New DCT filter.
• Front differential oil change.
• Rear differential oil change.
• Check sub-transmission oil (replacement not required)
• Inspecting Side nets and mounting points.
• Inspecting valve clearance. *if needed, if noisy*
• Inspect idle speed.
• Check all brakes.
• Check shift lever adjustment

*Note that inspecting valve clearance is not necessarily required. The manual states to inspect clearance "if needed, if engine is noisy".

Parts list for oil changes:

• Engine and DCT oil - 08C35-A131M02
  Recommend buying 8 quarts of (GN4 10w30) or JASO T 903 standard SAE10w-30. API SG or higher.
• Oil replacement levels.
  • 6.1 US qt for Drain, oil and dct filter change
  • Drain only - 5.5 US qt
  • Disassembly 7.6 US qt
• Front / Rear diff oil (8z bottles QTY 3): 08208-0080
• Engine oil filter: 15412-HP7-A01
• DCT oil filter: 15412-MGS-D21
• Engine oil filter o-ring: 91301-107-000
• DCT oil filter o-ring: 91302-PA9-003
• Oil pan drain washer: 94109-14000
• Oil tank drain washer: 94109-12000
• Front / Rear diff fill o-ring (QTY 2): 91302-001-020
• Front / Rear diff drain and check washer (QTY 3): 90471-580-000

*Note that you will not fill the engine will all 8 quarts of oil...this is more so a list of what to order. 8 quarts will cover the oil change with extra to top off the sub-transmission oil if needed.

Instruction from Service Manual:

 

[Admin]

 

[Vondy]

Awesome. Thanks

 

[hondabob]

The front dif says about 13 oz. That may be an error. Try 6 oz in the front dif and about 4 oz in the rear dif.

 

[Hondasxs]

The front dif says about 13 oz. That may be an error. Try 6 oz in the front dif and about 4 oz in the rear dif.

The Pioneer LE calls for 13.4 in front also so it may be a i4wd thing.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[viceversa]

Just replaced my front diff oil and it was indeed around 13oz.

 

[stellarpod]

Just replaced my front diff oil and it was indeed around 13oz.

Mine as well.

Steve

 

[Vondy]

FYI, My owners manual says 3.9 in rear. Guessing that should be 13.9

 

[Hondasxs]

FYI, My owners manual says 3.9 in rear. Guessing that should be 13.9

View attachment 144073

No. Owners manual is correct.
Rear takes much less then the rear because it's just a simple gear.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Vondy]

FYI, My owners manual says 3.9 in rear. Guessing that should be 13.9

View attachment 144073

I see now! I was filling rear using the fill hole as hole it need to be level with like the front. I see there is a different check hole on rear. Wonder how many others will overlook and do same.
Guess I wasted some fluid, at least I didn’t run it that way.

 

[stellarpod]

I see now! I was filling rear using the fill hole as hole it need to be level with like the front. I see there is a different check hole on rear. Wonder how many others will overlook and do same.
Guess I wasted some fluid, at least I didn’t run it that way.

Yep. Bit confusing if you're not paying strict attention, which I wasn't my first go at it.

Steve

 

[rbtnt]

If you install the rear hitch plate it really hides the fluid check hole.

 

[HondaPower]

The owners manual says to change the sub transmission filter but not the oil.

 

[PaulF]

The owners manual says to change the sub transmission filter but not the oil.

There is no Sub Transmission Filter but there is a DCT (Dual Clutch Transmission) Filter.

The engine and DCT share the same oil sump but use oil somewhat separately. To drain the engine/DCT sump, there are 2 drain plugs and a 3rd one (completely separate sump) for the sub transmission. There is an engine oil filter and a DCT oil filter but there is not a sub transmission oil filter.

There are also 2 separate dipsticks, One near the left rear of the crankcase for the engine/DCT oil and another way up front on the right side for the sub transmission.

After reading about several machines coming from the factory and leaving the dealership with low sub transmission oil, I changed all oils (including the sub transmission) on my 100 mile service. Went synthetic on everything.

 

[HondaPower]

I will probably go with rotella t4 or Lucas diesel oil. I've been using those on my pioneer since the first oil change and it ran much quieter.

 

[PaulF]

I will probably go with rotella t4 or Lucas diesel oil. I've been using those on my pioneer since the first oil change and it ran much quieter.

What model of Pioneer? Is it a 1000 with a DCT or does it have a belt and CVT?

Honda (and other bike manufacturers too) are very specific on oil when it comes to a Wet Clutch and the Talon has 2 of them. If you use unapproved oil and have clutch problems, you may void your warranty. Will it hurt the DCT? Only time will tell but for now I would suggest that you use Honda GN4 (conventional) or HP4S (synthetic) to maintain your warranty. Manual says you can also use...

API SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
JASO T 903 MA

• Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your Honda SXS does not need oil additives. Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or “resource conserving” service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
• Do not use non-detergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils.

NOTE: Many automotive oils and almost all synthetics) are labeled as "Energy Conserving" or “Resource Conserving” so you may want to avoid those for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Rotella T4 is no longer rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Lucas DIesel is not rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.

 

[stellarpod]

What model of Pioneer? Is it a 1000 with a DCT or does it have a belt and CVT?

Honda (and other bike manufacturers too) are very specific on oil when it comes to a Wet Clutch and the Talon has 2 of them. If you use unapproved oil and have clutch problems, you may void your warranty. Will it hurt the DCT? Only time will tell but for now I would suggest that you use Honda GN4 (conventional) or HP4S (synthetic) to maintain your warranty. Manual says you can also use...

API SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
JASO T 903 MA

• Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your Honda SXS does not need oil additives. Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or “resource conserving” service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
• Do not use non-detergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils.

NOTE: Many automotive oils and almost all synthetics) are labeled as "Energy Conserving" or “Resource Conserving” so you may want to avoid those for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Rotella T4 is no longer rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Lucas DIesel is not rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.

I used Mobil 1 full synthetic on my 100-mile service, and will continue to use it, just as I do on ALL my vehicles. Mobil 1 meets (or exceeds) the specs required by Honda. I have ZERO concern about Honda honoring any warranty claim I make.

BTW - I, too, went ahead and changed the sub-transmission oil at that first change, even though the Honda shop manual does not require it.

Steve

 

[PaulF]

I used Mobil 1 full synthetic on my 100-mile service, and will continue to use it, just as I do on ALL my vehicles. Mobil 1 meets (or exceeds) the specs required by Honda. I have ZERO concern about Honda honoring any warranty claim I make.

BTW - I, too, went ahead and changed the sub-transmission oil at that first change, even though the Honda shop manual does not require it.

Steve

I think for the sake of all here, you should clarify which variety of Mobil1 you are talking about (there are 3 dozen different Mobil1 oils after all).

There are at least 36 different Mobil1 varieties but only one of them truly meets Honda's spec for oil. Honda specifically states...
"Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or “resource conserving” service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance."

Most of the Mobil1 oils are “resource conserving” and Honda specifically says DO NOT use these types of oil. The are other oils that are not “resource conserving” but they are the "High Mileage" varieties and some racing oils that are not rated at all. If you have a clutch problem and use one of these oils, you MIGHT run into warranty issues.

The only variety with the correct specs is Mobil1 Racing 4T Motorcycle Oil rated API SN, JASO MA 2016 and MA2 2016 and it only comes in 10W40. This oil probably will not cause any warranty issues in regards to the clutches.

 

[HondaPower]

What model of Pioneer? Is it a 1000 with a DCT or does it have a belt and CVT?

Honda (and other bike manufacturers too) are very specific on oil when it comes to a Wet Clutch and the Talon has 2 of them. If you use unapproved oil and have clutch problems, you may void your warranty. Will it hurt the DCT? Only time will tell but for now I would suggest that you use Honda GN4 (conventional) or HP4S (synthetic) to maintain your warranty. Manual says you can also use...

API SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
JASO T 903 MA

• Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your Honda SXS does not need oil additives. Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or “resource conserving” service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
• Do not use non-detergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils.

NOTE: Many automotive oils and almost all synthetics) are labeled as "Energy Conserving" or “Resource Conserving” so you may want to avoid those for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Rotella T4 is no longer rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Lucas DIesel is not rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.

It is a 2014 700.

 

[HondaPower]

The reason rotella t4 does not meet gasoline standard is because the phosphorus rating. It's not meant for vehicles with catalytic converters. The lubrication properties are not affected.

 

[ArkansasTalon]

Okay, so is everybody getting their filters from Honda? Rocky Mountain ATV has an oil change kit, but it doesn't show a DCT filter. For the first 12 months, I'm definitely staying with Honda oil. After that, we'll see how it's going with the other oils.