Talon Initial Maintenance Parts and Instructions - Honda Talon 1000

[Lil_Steve]

Okay, so is everybody getting their filters from Honda? Rocky Mountain ATV has an oil change kit, but it doesn't show a DCT filter. For the first 12 months, I'm definitely staying with Honda oil. After that, we'll see how it's going with the other oils.

I recently purchased a number of things from RMATV for my also recently purchased Talon R. I got their oil change kit, and your right, it does not come with a DCT filter and it also does not come with an OEM oil filter, it comes with the Tusk brand. I looked it up and the Honda DCT oil filter part # is 15412-MGS-D21 and it's $7.67. I found out that all OEM parts #'s don't come up while searching their site. I had to look it up through their OEM parts finder. You'll find the oil/DCT filters listed under the oil cooler tab in the parts schematic/fiche.
While I was finding that DCT filter, I looked up a few other common parts like the oil filter and air filter. Imagine my surprise when the prices were actually cheaper through their parts schematic vs the prices they list when you have your machine profile selected.

Here's a couple of examples...

Honda OEM oil filter MSRP $12.50
Honda OEM oil filter saved machines profile $10.09
Honda OEM oil filter OEM parts finder $8.83


Honda OEM air filter MSRP $47.25
Honda OEM air filter saved machine profile $42.99
Honda OEM air filter OEM parts finder $36.38

I have no idea why the prices would be different, they're the same exact part #'s but looking up the part through their OEM parts finder seems cheaper than what they list for saved machine profiles.

 

[Admin]

 

[ArkansasTalon]

Thanks for the info!

 

[bionicman]

most dealers give you a percentage discount on oils n stuff if you buy breakin fluids at time of purchase

 

[jamesh]

I trusted my dealer to gather all the supplies for first service. He shorted me oil and a crush ring.

Went to Autozone to get more oil, armed with the manual for the spec. They didn't have any that matched. Drove a couple miles down the road to a Honda dealer (different one) and got some GN4.

I changed the sub transmission oil too. But really only because I mistakenly drained it, thinking it was the engine oil plug I was pulling......

 

[2021ArthurGuinnessX4LV]

Kinda scary torquing the bolts down. I was going as slow and easy as possible, waiting for the pop. I finished it all up but I wish they would have designed the filter mounting a little different.. maybe like a car, that way we aren’t stressing about stripping that aluminum. Has anyone ever stripped the threads and if so, what gives first... the threads on the bolt or the threads on the case

 

[Udaman]

The case threads would strip before the bolts would. Just need to make sure you tighten each bolt equally a little bit at a time. I put the cap in the hole until the o-ring is flush then alternately tighten each bolt a half turn at a time until the o-ring is no longer visible. Then I push the cap in the rest of the way by hand and finish tightening the bolts. The threads would be easily repairable with a heli-coil insert if they do strip. I've found stripped threads here and there on just about every atv or dirt bike engine I've taken apart and worked on.

 

[CID]

Kinda scary torquing the bolts down. I was going as slow and easy as possible, waiting for the pop. I finished it all up but I wish they would have designed the filter mounting a little different.. maybe like a car, that way we aren’t stressing about stripping that aluminum. Has anyone ever stripped the threads and if so, what gives first... the threads on the bolt or the threads on the case

I never use a torque wrench on 6 mm bolts, the wrench is too long and you lose any sense of 'feel'. I always use my 'torque wrist' for small fasteners, you can feel when the fastener seats against its surface, just a nip past that and you're good.

Use a short 1/4" ratchet and choke up on it, you'll be good.

On my dirt bike oil filter cover (similar to the Talon), I replace the bolts with studs - now I don't have to worry about stripping the aluminum threads.

From bolts -

to studs. I'll be doing this on my Talon shortly. Details here :DR650SE Index Topic #15- LINKS, WRITE-UPS & PICTORIALS

 

[2021ArthurGuinnessX4LV]

I never use a torque wrench on 6 mm bolts, the wrench is too long and you lose any sense of 'feel'. I always use my 'torque wrist' for small fasteners, you can feel when the fastener seats against its surface, just a nip past that and you're good.

Use a short 1/4" ratchet and choke up on it, you'll be good.
View attachment 256263

On my dirt bike oil filter cover (similar to the Talon), I replace the bolts with studs - now I don't have to worry about stripping the aluminum threads.

From bolts -
View attachment 256259

to studs. I'll be doing this on my Talon shortly. Details here :DR650SE Index Topic #15- LINKS, WRITE-UPS & PICTORIALS
View attachment 256260

I almost did this as well. I think I’ll do it the next time around.

 

[Diaperdutydad]

I thought I'd create a thread to cover all of the parts which are needed for one to perform the initial (100 mile) maintenance along with instructions from the Honda Service Manual. Hope all of us new Talon owners find this helpful!

The initial service involves the following:

• Changing Engine/DCT oil.
• New Engine filter.
• New DCT filter.
• Front differential oil change.
• Rear differential oil change.
• Check sub-transmission oil (replacement not required)
• Inspecting Side nets and mounting points.
• Inspecting valve clearance. *if needed, if noisy*
• Inspect idle speed.
• Check all brakes.
• Check shift lever adjustment

View attachment 137303
*Note that inspecting valve clearance is not necessarily required. The manual states to inspect clearance "if needed, if engine is noisy".

Parts list for oil changes:

• Engine and DCT oil - 08C35-A131M02
  Recommend buying 8 quarts of (GN4 10w30) or JASO T 903 standard SAE10w-30. API SG or higher.
• Oil replacement levels.
  • 6.1 US qt for Drain, oil and dct filter change
  • Drain only - 5.5 US qt
  • Disassembly 7.6 US qt
• Front / Rear diff oil (8z bottles QTY 3): 08208-0080
• Engine oil filter: 15412-HP7-A01
• DCT oil filter: 15412-MGS-D21
• Engine oil filter o-ring: 91301-107-000
• DCT oil filter o-ring: 91302-PA9-003
• Oil pan drain washer: 94109-14000
• Oil tank drain washer: 94109-12000
• Front / Rear diff fill o-ring (QTY 2): 91302-001-020
• Front / Rear diff drain and check washer (QTY 3): 90471-580-000

*Note that you will not fill the engine will all 8 quarts of oil...this is more so a list of what to order. 8 quarts will cover the oil change with extra to top off the sub-transmission oil if needed.

Instruction from Service Manual:
View attachment 137304
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View attachment 137309

Awesome!! Thank You!!

 

[Doogle]

What model of Pioneer? Is it a 1000 with a DCT or does it have a belt and CVT?

Honda (and other bike manufacturers too) are very specific on oil when it comes to a Wet Clutch and the Talon has 2 of them. If you use unapproved oil and have clutch problems, you may void your warranty. Will it hurt the DCT? Only time will tell but for now I would suggest that you use Honda GN4 (conventional) or HP4S (synthetic) to maintain your warranty. Manual says you can also use...

API SG or higher except oils labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
JASO T 903 MA

• Suggested oils are equal in performance to SJ oils that are not labeled as energy conserving or resource conserving on the circular API service label.
• Your Honda SXS does not need oil additives. Use the recommended oil.
• Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives. They may adversely affect clutch operation.
• Do not use API SH or higher oils displaying a circular API “energy conserving” or “resource conserving” service label on the container. They may affect lubrication and clutch performance.
• Do not use non-detergent, vegetable, or castor based racing oils.

NOTE: Many automotive oils and almost all synthetics) are labeled as "Energy Conserving" or “Resource Conserving” so you may want to avoid those for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Rotella T4 is no longer rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.
NOTE: Lucas DIesel is not rated for gasoline (Only C rated now for diesels) so you may want to avoid this for warranty reasons until your warranty is up.

Excellent information.