P1000 Inner Fender Protection 16-21, Honda OEM fix

[Scamih]

I’m starting a new thread to report a fix for a common problem of sticks coming through the fender well. I’ll give the credit to @ODAMO, he noticed that the 22 and newer models had upgraded protection and suggested that as a fix. I purchased and installed and I think this is a good fix. Only time will tell if 22 and newer owners report sticks through the fender well. I think it smooths out the edges and will keep sticks from becoming wedged. The plastic is .140 thick which seems sturdy. The install was easy. Tucks under fender flare on driver side and goes over on passenger side. I compared to a buddie’s 22. I had to loosen my tusk skid plate to tuck under but didn’t have to cut anything. Since I replaced my floor I had a lot of pre made holes. Most of you will have to drill a few more holes.

I didn’t use the pan screws.

 

[Admin]

 

[Scamih]

Btw, while I was at it, I put Rough Country Vertex shocks on the front. I like them but haven’t abused them yet.

 

[WagginTail]

I’m starting a new thread to report a fix for a common problem of sticks coming through the fender well. I’ll give the credit to @ODAMO, he noticed that the 22 and newer models had upgraded protection and suggested that as a fix. I purchased and installed and I think this is a good fix. Only time will tell if 22 and newer owners report sticks through the fender well. I think it smooths out the edges and will keep sticks from becoming wedged. The plastic is .140 thick which seems sturdy. The install was easy. Tucks under fender flare on driver side and goes over on passenger side. I compared to a buddie’s 22. I had to loosen my tusk skid plate to tuck under but didn’t have to cut anything. Since I replaced my floor I had a lot of pre made holes. Most of you will have to drill a few more holes.

View attachment 436875

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I didn’t use the pan screws.


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Nice. Thanks for being the guinea pig. Think I'm going to do the same

 

[TripleB]

Nice. Thanks for being the guinea pig. Think I'm going to do the same

Me too

 

[Scamih]

I forgot to mention if your skid plate reuses factory holes at the front. You will have to drill though these new pieces so you can drive your bolt back. Tusk required this but most of you have super atv and I’m not sure if they reused those holes. It was easy

 

[Vikes79]

I’m starting a new thread to report a fix for a common problem of sticks coming through the fender well. I’ll give the credit to @ODAMO, he noticed that the 22 and newer models had upgraded protection and suggested that as a fix. I purchased and installed and I think this is a good fix. Only time will tell if 22 and newer owners report sticks through the fender well. I think it smooths out the edges and will keep sticks from becoming wedged. The plastic is .140 thick which seems sturdy. The install was easy. Tucks under fender flare on driver side and goes over on passenger side. I compared to a buddie’s 22. I had to loosen my tusk skid plate to tuck under but didn’t have to cut anything. Since I replaced my floor I had a lot of pre made holes. Most of you will have to drill a few more holes.

View attachment 436875

View attachment 436884
I didn’t use the pan screws.


View attachment 436878View attachment 436881View attachment 436883View attachment 436885View attachment 436886View attachment 436888

I wanted to ask in the other thread if the stick came up thru the a-arm or not? Maybe you backed up before checking?

From a physics point of view, imo, I’d argue that having 2 tubes semi parallel to the ground traveling forward would have a better probability of hooking and lifting sticks into the cabin vs an a-arm with a guard on it, or the stick going into the cab unassisted. IMO the tube on the bottom closest to the cab would make all the proper angles to catch a stick and make the angle into the cab.

This is why I run trail armor arm guards on my P1k5 especially because I spray pastures and its really hard to always really know what your driving over and I’m usually running speeds around 10mph or so loaded down with 80 gal of spray.

thanks for the info, I might just add them to the P1k5…

 

[Scamih]

I wasn’t backing up and I don’t remember if it came through the a arm. I should have taken a picture before I removed the stick. I hadn’t been able to find a arm guards for Superatv forward a arms.

 

[ODAMO]

@Scamih Thanks for the credit and thanks for the write up. I’m sure others will be following your lead and doing the same for some peace of mind. 👍🏼

 

[someguy1313]

interesting. I assume this is a full replacement part and requires a certain amount of disassembly and reassembly?
AND
Does this feel or seem more pucture resistant than the original parts?


ALSO: Considering ordering the part to see if it could be modified to be installed in the wheelwell over the existing panel with additional rivets... sort of a "consumable: part if you will... Had also considered riveting heavy rubber/cloth (like commercial conveyor belt material) into the wheelwell to stop punch through...

interested in your thoughts.


AND, I ordered a bunch of industrial kydex and will heat bond aramid kevlar to one side and heat shape it to the wheel well .

Planning to launch sticks at it from an air canon at 30mph to test puncture resistance.

Please comment on this. won't hurt my feelings.


ANYONE else that would like to commit to similar R&D, please do so...

this is a design flaw whose time has come and needs resolved.

I recall someone talked about heat bending HDPE and hope to hear some promising outcomes from that


j~

 

[Scamih]

On drivers side you have to take about 6 clips off to the get it tucked under fender flare. Remove one clip on passenger side. Skid plate had to be loosened up to allow this part to slide in under it. Pretty easy.

Regarding protection, it at least doubles the layers of plastic and fixes the sharp corners that allow sticks to get wedged. If you look at the original design with that waffle shaped flat surface it was almost like they were asking sticks to get wedged in there. I do think we should ask some 22-24 p1000 owners if they have had any sticks come through the fender wells. I’m also hoping that Honda did a little leg work when they designed this protector for the 22 and newer model.

I think this would kept the stick from coming through my floor board. I had a stick come through the floor board going about 5 miles an hour. I think your idea to test is a good idea. Let us know what you find out.

 

[Phantomhunter1]

Btw, while I was at it, I put Rough Country Vertex shocks on the front. I like them but haven’t abused them yet. View attachment 436899

I'm interested in these as well. Keep us updated. May be a good option to Fox's

 

[Vikes79]

interesting. I assume this is a full replacement part and requires a certain amount of disassembly and reassembly?
AND
Does this feel or seem more pucture resistant than the original parts?


ALSO: Considering ordering the part to see if it could be modified to be installed in the wheelwell over the existing panel with additional rivets... sort of a "consumable: part if you will... Had also considered riveting heavy rubber/cloth (like commercial conveyor belt material) into the wheelwell to stop punch through...

interested in your thoughts.


AND, I ordered a bunch of industrial kydex and will heat bond aramid kevlar to one side and heat shape it to the wheel well .

Planning to launch sticks at it from an air canon at 30mph to test puncture resistance.

Please comment on this. won't hurt my feelings.


ANYONE else that would like to commit to similar R&D, please do so...

this is a design flaw whose time has come and needs resolved.

I recall someone talked about heat bending HDPE and hope to hear some promising outcomes from that


j~

Design flaw? Really? Why stop with Kevlar, why not some 1/2” plate steel?

These ATVs, SXS’s and motorcycles aren’t cars nor tanks.

30 mph test? Ain’t nobody riding thru the woods on an unfamiliar trail at 30mph. If they are, they are insane and are much more likely to wrap themselves around a tree. 10 mph is much more likely…

Going balls out in a field you aren’t familiar with is frankly incredibly stupid and dangerous…even if you’re driving a tank.

While I could be convinced there is a risk, the ultimate responsibility imo is starting with the driver first. The warning tags are everywhere you look on my ATVs about riding safely and avoiding careless and reckless driving. This means knowing the environment and driving appropriately.

My apologies for calling it like I see it, but let’s be realistic.

 

[ODAMO]

Stick penetration can happen on any UTV, It even happens on Jeeps and pickups with metal firewalls.

 

[TripleB]

30 mph test? Ain’t nobody riding thru the woods on an unfamiliar trail at 30mph. If they are, they are insane and are much more likely to wrap themselves around a tree. 10 mph is much more likely…

Going balls out in a field you aren’t familiar with is frankly incredibly stupid and dangerous…even if you’re driving a tank.

I see you have never rode with @Hondasxs. All joking aside, it is a s***ty design. That was one of 3 main reasons I ended up buying a POS KRX.

 

[Scamih]

I'm interested in these as well. Keep us updated. May be a good option to Fox's

When I upgraded from stock to Rough country M1 they were 100% better than stock. I’ve been driving these Vertex around the field tonight and adjusting (1-13) over several good bumps. My initial evaluation is they are 53.978% better than M1. Im sticking with the M1 on the rear. I like them a lot. I haven’t hit the trails yet which I will in the next week. My local trails have a motorcross track and I usually bottom out once or twice. I’m interested to see what happens when I crank these babies up. I’m currently running them at 5 out of 13 so on the soft side.

 

[WagginTail]

Just ordered the parts. Thanks again @Scamih

 

[someguy1313]

Design flaw? Really? Why stop with Kevlar, why not some 1/2” plate steel?

These ATVs, SXS’s and motorcycles aren’t cars nor tanks.

30 mph test? Ain’t nobody riding thru the woods on an unfamiliar trail at 30mph. If they are, they are insane and are much more likely to wrap themselves around a tree. 10 mph is much more likely…

Going balls out in a field you aren’t familiar with is frankly incredibly stupid and dangerous…even if you’re driving a tank.

While I could be convinced there is a risk, the ultimate responsibility imo is starting with the driver first. The warning tags are everywhere you look on my ATVs about riding safely and avoiding careless and reckless driving. This means knowing the environment and driving appropriately.

My apologies for calling it like I see it, but let’s be realistic.

We agree! and 1/2 plate is a great idea. make it happen!

all your other points are spot on. but those things happen. and yep, driver responsibility matters.

and yes, the 'stick grabbing' waffle grid thin plastic fender piece is a poor design.
The smooth updated panel is a step in the right direction. Take the same smooth panel idea and make it stronger.
Combine that with driver responsibility, cab intrusion will go down.

party on!

 

[Scamih]

Random not related question, I sent note to Windrock but if he doesn’t get it I’ll ask here. When your setting the camber on super atv an arms it says to set at 0 or -1. Is -1 leaning in towards machine or out. I can’t find that answer in the threads.

 

[ChadD]

The warning tags are everywhere you look on my ATVs about riding safely and avoiding careless and reckless driving.

Until you put in your new switch panel 🙄🤣

 

[WagginTail]

Random not related question, I sent note to Windrock but if he doesn’t get it I’ll ask here. When your setting the camber on super atv an arms it says to set at 0 or -1. Is -1 leaning in towards machine or out. I can’t find that answer in the threads.

Should be the top of tire is in toward the machine