P1000 Leaking Sub Trans Fluid

[Wellzy]

Hello wolfpack,

So earlier this year I had completed my second oil change, 1,200 miles area. I took off the skid plate for that one and when I did I observed a drip on the bottom of the sub trans, along where the two cases come together. I wiped it off, tried not to freak out and continued changing the fluid. This sub trans fluid was from factory and I changed it just for break in, get out the old and put new in. I added Mobil 1 10w-30 as I like the idea of having synthetic in there as it gets drained every two years.

Present time, I just took the skid off for my third oil change (2,800ish) and when I looked, the oil drip was there again, with evidence on the top of the skid the oil is dripping and getting the skid top oily. I also noticed the breather tube has a drip on the end.

I checked the oil level and it read high. I checked it several times and it was high. I looked into the owners manual and see that Mobil 1 is not recommended as it is a Resource Conserving oil. The bottle does not have the recommended SJ API Service, but I checked on the website and it meets SJ on the website. So I though, get that out and switch back to GN4. I filled it to be full EXACTLY on the dipstick.

I took photos which are included, and wiped off the skid plate and bottom of the casing to see how long before it drips again. I am in warranty until December and can take it in if needed. Has anyone seen this on their machine?

 

[bumperm]

I don't have a lot of experience with my P1000-5 yet, but on aircraft engines I do. An oil leak anywhere can show up anywhere or dang near everywhere. Air currents, turbulence, can pick up oil in one spot and put it in several other spots. The same, probably to a lesser extent, will happen on your sxs.

The fact that it was overfilled is a strong hint that the oil came from the breather. It's also possible, though probably unlikely, that the oil foamed, contributing to the problem. I think cracks in the casting are not so likely if there was no impact there, but casting lines from the mold are common in many products (not sure about on the Honda sxs though. So, what to do.

1) Clean it up and run it. Check it after a short run. If clean, continue with life and pretend it never happened.

2) If it continues to leak and oil gets all over again, you can add some florescent "engine oil dye", available at most any auto parts or Amazon. Add it to your oil and do a short run, then check with a LED UV light* and the dye will show you where the oil is coming from. Make the first run short so the oil doesn't get all over - if there's no trace, run a bit longer and check again.

In the old days, before LED UV lights, we'd use a incandescent or fluorescent "black light " bulb, though it was mostly impossible to see the dye fluoresce in sunlight, much easier when it's dark. That works better, even with strong LED UV bulbs too. Use caution and don't look directly at light source.

 

[slowdryrider]

First off that tube your referring to isn't the vent tube for the sub trans. It's the water pump weep tube. In the owners manual it says it's common to get a little bit of seapage from the tube. The vent tube for the sub trans is near the top ,and it has a hose on it that runs into the frame.
Maybe it's just me but I would say that the oil is possibly coming from that bolt and running along the case to the seams. If it was me I would pull that bolt out clean it up and put some sort of sealant around that area. If your still on warranty show the dealer the pics and let them deal with it. FYI the oil will find the lowest point to run to and drip from there .so the leak can come from higher up !!!

 

[Wellzy]

First off that tube your referring to isn't the vent tube for the sub trans. It's the water pump weep tube. In the owners manual it says it's common to get a little bit of seapage from the tube. The vent tube for the sub trans is near the top ,and it has a hose on it that runs into the frame.
Maybe it's just me but I would say that the oil is possibly coming from that bolt and running along the case to the seams. If it was me I would pull that bolt out clean it up and put some sort of sealant around that area. If your still on warranty show the dealer the pics and let them deal with it. FYI the oil will find the lowest point to run to and drip from there .so the leak can come from higher up !!!

I thank you members for helping me with ideas, but as Slowdryrider mentioned, the vent tube turned out to be coolant.

I went out tonight to check for any new drips. I rubbed my finger on the vent tube and the fluid on my finger was blue. From above, the tube obviously goes to the water pump. So let's eliminate the tube from my sub trans drip.

I ran a dry paper towel across the bottom of the casing and it did not collect anything. I will keep checking on it and report back after a longer ride.

 

[slowdryrider]

I ran a dry paper towel across the bottom of the casing and it did not collect anything. I will keep checking on it and report back after a longer ride.

Be interesting to see/hear what you find.

 

[Wellzy]

I was able to take this in for a diagnosis. They said they found the leak at the rear driveshaft seal on the rear of the subtransmission. So the seal needs to be replaced. Sounds like a big deal. Every time I check the subtrans fluid it has not gone down at all. The drip on the bottom is getting the skid oily as it is blowing off as I ride, it's more of an annoyance right meow.

I want to have it repaired, it is not supposed to be leaking, but the idea of my Honda getting a major surgery by an unknown guy is not thrilling to me either. They are going to call when the driveshaft seal is in. I was told it will be a one day service, a long day, but I can bring it back home the same day = no down time.

I swear if I didn't have bad luck I'd have no luck at all! 😩

 

[CID]

At least they found the source of the leak and it isn't the sub trans. A driveshaft seal is a fairly noninvasive surgery so they won't be deep into your buggy and I understand your concern about an unknown guy - my Talon was outfitted by the dealership and their 'tech' did a s***ty job on about everything he touched (and it's a large dealer, not some hole in the wall ).

 

[Wellzy]

Well, this has been repaired. I took the machine in last Thursday evening so they had it first thing Friday morning to start the repair. It took about the 5 hours as estimated, and after speaking with the mechanic, it was not that difficult and should no longer be an issue. I was shown the round doughnut seal/gasket that was leaking and why it was doing it. So let's see how it goes as now that cold weather is here I have little time to test the repair before storage. I was told if it was still an issue once I got it out in the spring, they would take care of it. Good to hear!

 

[brettc]

This is exactly what mine looks like, except the rear driveshaft looks good. I'm gonna keep monitoring.