P1000 Light bar opinions/ recommendations

Caddy

Caddy

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I've been shopping for a 50-54" curved light bar to mount at the base of the windshield. I have to admit I'm beginning to get overwhelmed. I've been searching the forum for a couple of days now and having trouble finding a thread for this info.... So, figured I would start one... What have you used, like, recommend? Please include brand, price range, would you buy it again, and where purchased (if you can remember)... Maybe some pic's of it on your machine, at night without and with the light on?
 
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JTW

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Started out with one big 52” bar across the bottom of the windshield... I ended up switching to better, smaller lights for redundant systems. It’s a real b**** when you’re in Moab and your damn lightbar goes out because it’s pulling too many amps and smokes a relay.
 
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jajohn00

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Nov 16, 2018
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Started out with one big 52” bar across the bottom of the windshield... I ended up switching to better, smaller lights for redundant systems. It’s a real b**** when you’re in Moab and your damn lightbar goes out because it’s pulling too many amps and smokes a relay.
I agree. I have two 12" spot/flood combo bars on the bumper. One 20" bar would suffice but I like redundancy. A set of cubes on the pillars by the windshield. Another set of cubes on the rear sides for a better angle, keeps the spooks from sneaking up on you at night. LOL. And a set of rear pods.
I like Rough Country lights and GG lights.
Just my preference.

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Pilotadam

Pilotadam

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I have a 52" curved Rough Country mounted were you are talking about. I can say it is way better than the cheap Amazon light bars I have had in the past. Sorry no night shots but here are a couple of pictures installed. I would buy it again compared to the cheaper ones I have had. I do carry a spare relay just in case, I also had to make some modifications to the pod brackets to make it work. 1c04576e3c160a00f027f89c281efedd658dc8f5781e26983cde499eeeaf6c8aB8fac8b7660423a0e6c4d1411fb83bb4

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michdave

michdave

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Heads up.....some people may not like hearing this info. I'm not trying to insult, I'm just crunch number.

I'm a huge fan of Rigid Ind lights after running them for years, so there is some bias.


But...be weary of the "Lumens claim", thermal loss, and optical & assembly loss. With the cheaper lights on the market, a light bar that claims it's 40,000 lumens is often referring to it's "raw lumens" number, so it's effective lumens is actually 16,000 lumens (which is still very bright, but significantly less).

If the optical (the glass) is poor design and the assembly is too shallow, you can loose up to another 20% of that value. That brings your 40,000 claimed lumens light bar down to 12,800 effective lumens.

If the housing is poorly designed and using cheap materials, the thermal loss will grow significantly after 10 minutes - 30 minutes of use as the LED heats up...usually a 10-20% loss of effective output. After optical/assembly lose plus thermal loss, now your 40,000 claim lumen light bar is only throwing out 11,520 - 10,240 effective lumens.

So, in the end, you paid for a 40,000 lumen light bar but you're only getting 10,240 lumens of light output after 10-15 minutes of use. Still much brighter than the stock headlamps by far!

Now don't get me wrong, you can get a 40,000 claim lumen light bar for $100-150 which ends up putting out the 10,240 effective lumens...you're still getting a lot of light for your money. It's just not the amount of light you thought you were getting. A higher quality light such as Rigid Industries, Baja Designs or others will end up still costing you significantly more for that much light. But you will notice that their housing are much larger, the assemblies are deeper, and they'll utilize a high quality optic. They will often provide you both the raw lumens and effective lumens count as well as what you can expect from, if any, thermal losses. You will, without a doubt, have a much better and useful beam of light as the cheaper LEDs tend to throw light in every direction whereas the major manufactures will focus their light where it's needed.

On a personal note, I've used the Rigids and cheaper lights and compared them myself, and with others throughout the years on Jeeps, bikes, and now SxS. Every time, the Rigid's, even with smaller lights, projected a much more useful light. I've been with guys who had massive light bars and they end up throwing most of that light in the trees above them because the housings and optics were s***. A pair of my Rigid D2 Dually Pro lights put more useful light down the trail than a 52 inch light bar, but they also cost more. Few of my friends said they didn't care because they still liked the look of the huge light bar over a bunch of pods.

I have 3 sets of pods on my machine for a few reasons. 1) Because I recycle my lights. They were installed on other vehicles and when I sell the vehicle, I replace them with cheap lights so I can keep the ones I spent the money on. 2) Pods allow me to put the light right where I need it. In my case, 2 forward facing, 2 at 30º angled out, 2 at 70º angled out. Providing me with full range light coverage.

Just my two cents. Good luck on the purchase!
 
J

JTW

Guest
I have a 52" curved Rough Country mounted were you are talking about. I can say it is way better than the cheap Amazon light bars I have had in the past. Sorry no night shots but here are a couple of pictures installed. I would buy it again compared to the cheaper ones I have had. I do carry a spare relay just in case, I also had to make some modifications to the pod brackets to make it work.View attachment 206008View attachment 206009View attachment 206010

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Rough country for the win! At least that was the case when they offered the X5 line. I have a chrome series and its not really any better than the cheap amazon bars.
 
H

HondaTech

Guest
Heads up.....some people may not like hearing this info. I'm not trying to insult, I'm just crunch number.

I'm a huge fan of Rigid Ind lights after running them for years, so there is some bias.


But...be weary of the "Lumens claim", thermal loss, and optical & assembly loss. With the cheaper lights on the market, a light bar that claims it's 40,000 lumens is often referring to it's "raw lumens" number, so it's effective lumens is actually 16,000 lumens (which is still very bright, but significantly less).

If the optical (the glass) is poor design and the assembly is too shallow, you can loose up to another 20% of that value. That brings your 40,000 claimed lumens light bar down to 12,800 effective lumens.

If the housing is poorly designed and using cheap materials, the thermal loss will grow significantly after 10 minutes - 30 minutes of use as the LED heats up...usually a 10-20% loss of effective output. After optical/assembly lose plus thermal loss, now your 40,000 claim lumen light bar is only throwing out 11,520 - 10,240 effective lumens.

So, in the end, you paid for a 40,000 lumen light bar but you're only getting 10,240 lumens of light output after 10-15 minutes of use. Still much brighter than the stock headlamps by far!

Now don't get me wrong, you can get a 40,000 claim lumen light bar for $100-150 which ends up putting out the 10,240 effective lumens...you're still getting a lot of light for your money. It's just not the amount of light you thought you were getting. A higher quality light such as Rigid Industries, Baja Designs or others will end up still costing you significantly more for that much light. But you will notice that their housing are much larger, the assemblies are deeper, and they'll utilize a high quality optic. They will often provide you both the raw lumens and effective lumens count as well as what you can expect from, if any, thermal losses. You will, without a doubt, have a much better and useful beam of light as the cheaper LEDs tend to throw light in every direction whereas the major manufactures will focus their light where it's needed.

On a personal note, I've used the Rigids and cheaper lights and compared them myself, and with others throughout the years on Jeeps, bikes, and now SxS. Every time, the Rigid's, even with smaller lights, projected a much more useful light. I've been with guys who had massive light bars and they end up throwing most of that light in the trees above them because the housings and optics were s***. A pair of my Rigid D2 Dually Pro lights put more useful light down the trail than a 52 inch light bar, but they also cost more. Few of my friends said they didn't care because they still liked the look of the huge light bar over a bunch of pods.

I have 3 sets of pods on my machine for a few reasons. 1) Because I recycle my lights. They were installed on other vehicles and when I sell the vehicle, I replace them with cheap lights so I can keep the ones I spent the money on. 2) Pods allow me to put the light right where I need it. In my case, 2 forward facing, 2 at 30º angled out, 2 at 70º angled out. Providing me with full range light coverage.

Just my two cents. Good luck on the purchase!

It's the Walmart mentality, why pay $1000 for that when I can buy this one for $100 and replace it 10 times.
 
Caddy

Caddy

Member
Jun 14, 2019
43
56
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Rosewood, Ohio
Ownership

  1. 1000-5
Heads up.....some people may not like hearing this info. I'm not trying to insult, I'm just crunch number.

I'm a huge fan of Rigid Ind lights after running them for years, so there is some bias.


But...be weary of the "Lumens claim", thermal loss, and optical & assembly loss. With the cheaper lights on the market, a light bar that claims it's 40,000 lumens is often referring to it's "raw lumens" number, so it's effective lumens is actually 16,000 lumens (which is still very bright, but significantly less).

If the optical (the glass) is poor design and the assembly is too shallow, you can loose up to another 20% of that value. That brings your 40,000 claimed lumens light bar down to 12,800 effective lumens.

If the housing is poorly designed and using cheap materials, the thermal loss will grow significantly after 10 minutes - 30 minutes of use as the LED heats up...usually a 10-20% loss of effective output. After optical/assembly lose plus thermal loss, now your 40,000 claim lumen light bar is only throwing out 11,520 - 10,240 effective lumens.

So, in the end, you paid for a 40,000 lumen light bar but you're only getting 10,240 lumens of light output after 10-15 minutes of use. Still much brighter than the stock headlamps by far!

Now don't get me wrong, you can get a 40,000 claim lumen light bar for $100-150 which ends up putting out the 10,240 effective lumens...you're still getting a lot of light for your money. It's just not the amount of light you thought you were getting. A higher quality light such as Rigid Industries, Baja Designs or others will end up still costing you significantly more for that much light. But you will notice that their housing are much larger, the assemblies are deeper, and they'll utilize a high quality optic. They will often provide you both the raw lumens and effective lumens count as well as what you can expect from, if any, thermal losses. You will, without a doubt, have a much better and useful beam of light as the cheaper LEDs tend to throw light in every direction whereas the major manufactures will focus their light where it's needed.

On a personal note, I've used the Rigids and cheaper lights and compared them myself, and with others throughout the years on Jeeps, bikes, and now SxS. Every time, the Rigid's, even with smaller lights, projected a much more useful light. I've been with guys who had massive light bars and they end up throwing most of that light in the trees above them because the housings and optics were s***. A pair of my Rigid D2 Dually Pro lights put more useful light down the trail than a 52 inch light bar, but they also cost more. Few of my friends said they didn't care because they still liked the look of the huge light bar over a bunch of pods.

I have 3 sets of pods on my machine for a few reasons. 1) Because I recycle my lights. They were installed on other vehicles and when I sell the vehicle, I replace them with cheap lights so I can keep the ones I spent the money on. 2) Pods allow me to put the light right where I need it. In my case, 2 forward facing, 2 at 30º angled out, 2 at 70º angled out. Providing me with full range light coverage.

Just my two cents. Good luck on the purchase!
That is all good information! Thanks for the time you put into that post! Unfortunately for me, money doesn't grow on trees and the places I go with my pioneer, someone would just end up stealing it anyway.... I could see getting the top of the top of the line if I was racing, it's just too much money...
 
Ohio4x4

Ohio4x4

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Some of these lights are far too expensive to chance ripping off in the Woods. I break about one a year and even the price a single pod of expensive brands will buy most if not all of the Amazon bars on my buggy. If I was riding open terrain at higher speeds I could see the need.
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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RC is light years better than Amazon but still not a Rigid. Price point is right though. I have a 20” single Row RC and it is measurable brighter and also more usable than the $40 40” dual row Amazon bar I threw on there.

It’s plenty up to about 40mph on a gravel trail.

Use the quality pods to supplement and you’ll be fine.

I’m the opposite the huge lightbars are ugly to me they don’t blend into the lines of the machine. They also stick out and get caught on limbs and vines that are inevitable across the trail.
 
BigOL3

BigOL3

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Some of these lights are far too expensive to chance ripping off in the Woods. I break about one a year and even the price a single pod of expensive brands will buy most if not all of the Amazon bars on my buggy. If I was riding open terrain at higher speeds I could see the need.
Yep. If my needs dictated the requirement to have absolutely the brightest/best light available, then the higher priced lights would have to be my choice. Thankfully, although I need good light to see by, it does NOT have to be top of the line. Even with OLD eyes, the cheap ones seem to do the job for me.
 
ToddACimer

ToddACimer

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RC is light years better than Amazon but still not a Rigid. Price point is right though. I have a 20” single Row RC and it is measurable brighter and also more usable than the $40 40” dual row Amazon bar I threw on there.

It’s plenty up to about 40mph on a gravel trail.

Use the quality pods to supplement and you’ll be fine.

I’m the opposite the huge lightbars are ugly to me they don’t blend into the lines of the machine. They also stick out and get caught on limbs and vines that are inevitable across the trail.

Definitely tough to beat the price vs light output on the Rough Country lights

I have 2 8" single rows for front light and reverse light. A 6" single row in the front bumper and the X5s on the B-pillar. I agree up to 40 mph is similar visibility to day light.

IMG 20200603 215311
 
Caddy

Caddy

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Rosewood, Ohio
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Rough Country is on my list of ones I'm looking at! Probably the top end of what I'm looking at but I am definitely considering it!

I'm also considering...
and...
 
J

JTW

Guest
Rough Country is on my list of ones I'm looking at! Probably the top end of what I'm looking at but I am definitely considering it!

I'm also considering...
and...
With a 52” bar.. it’s not going to matter as much if it’s the RC or not. When you figure out that bar is pulling too much and you decided to redo your setup and have fewer, better lights. The RC should be your first choice!
 
michdave

michdave

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  1. 1000-5
That is all good information! Thanks for the time you put into that post! Unfortunately for me, money doesn't grow on trees and the places I go with my pioneer, someone would just end up stealing it anyway.... I could see getting the top of the top of the line if I was racing, it's just too much money...

LOL. I understand that! Like I said...I've recycled/reused many of my lights. My oldest set is nearly 11 years old but still my favorites because they're Rigid's old high/low driving beams. I had them first mounted on my Jeep in 2009, then the MotoVan later in life, and now the Pioneer. I've been careful to mount them in locations where they're protected. I know that many of the companies test their lights rigorously but only so much can protect them if they get crushed on the rock face or tree. The other set's I found as left-overs on Flea-Bay after Rigid updated their line.

But, I totally get it. These side-by-sides are almost as big money pits as the Jeep was. I'd have so much more money if I didn't play in motor sports! LOL
 
J

JTW

Guest
LOL. I understand that! Like I said...I've recycled/reused many of my lights. My oldest set is nearly 11 years old but still my favorites because they're Rigid's old high/low driving beams. I had them first mounted on my Jeep in 2009, then the MotoVan later in life, and now the Pioneer. I've been careful to mount them in locations where they're protected. I know that many of the companies test their lights rigorously but only so much can protect them if they get crushed on the rock face or tree. The other set's I found as left-overs on Flea-Bay after Rigid updated their line.

But, I totally get it. These side-by-sides are almost as big money pits as the Jeep was. I'd have so much more money if I didn't play in motor sports! LOL
This last statement is soooo f***ing true!!
 
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