P1000 Macs Double Stud Anchors on Aluminum Trailer

[MortForShort]

IF the axle strap D-rings will fit through your spokes, this has worked well for me.

Pictures of your method on a few other trailer posts is what put me on to this method. The trailer I'm looking at is a different design but it does have a front and side retaining rail. But being aluminum rather than steel, I have no idea how strong it is. Is it reasonable to believe it can secure a 1600 pounder strapped at 4 corners and hold it in a SHTF situation? I'm also going to see if the dealer can send me some pictures of the underside to see if maybe I could strap to the frame with chain extensions and secure it that way.

One other question that will put my ignorance on full display. The easiest/quickest way to get me out on the trail is if I can use the existing tie loops and I think I can do this with the axle straps. I also saw a video where they removed the strap from the ratchet, looped the strap through the wheel and then the D-ring, and then put it back on the ratchet and tied it down. The way I see it this eliminates the issue with it fitting through the rim. So here's my question. The trailer bed is 12 feet long and the tie loops are 1 foot from each corner and the PK3 wheelbase is around 6.6 feet. I don't own the trailer yet so I don't know exactly where I'll position it for the correct tongue weight. So my concern is the factory loops may not be far enough fore and aft to lock things down. It seems the normal approach is to strap the LF tire to the LF of the trailer, LR tire to the LR of the trailer, etc. If this doesn't work for me, will it work to reverse the straps? In other words, does it work if I strap the LF tire to the LR tie loop (pulling the front tire backwards), LR tire to the LF tie loop (pulling the rear tire forward), etc.? If so and I can do it where the straps don't rub where they cross, I think I can get rolling.

 

[MortForShort]

Whatever you do take pics and post em up on here. Remember you started the thread😉
You haven't even posted pics of your ride yet so…POIDH

Here ya go, Sheriff.

Not great pics but what I have at the moment. I understand from other posts that it'll be a fast one! That may or may not be true. I bought it because at the time, it was the only 3-seater base or deluxe that I could find within 4 hours of me. Really looking forward to being able to take it out and use it.

 

[Remington]

Here ya go, Sheriff.

Not great pics but what I have at the moment. I understand from other posts that it'll be a fast one! That may or may not be true. I bought it because at the time, it was the only 3-seater base or deluxe that I could find within 4 hours of me. Really looking forward to being able to take it out and use it.

View attachment 421082 View attachment 421083

Beautiful machine. Your gonna love it

 

[CID]

Pictures of your method on a few other trailer posts is what put me on to this method. The trailer I'm looking at is a different design but it does have a front and side retaining rail. But being aluminum rather than steel, I have no idea how strong it is. Is it reasonable to believe it can secure a 1600 pounder strapped at 4 corners and hold it in a SHTF situation? I'm also going to see if the dealer can send me some pictures of the underside to see if maybe I could strap to the frame with chain extensions and secure it that way.

One other question that will put my ignorance on full display. The easiest/quickest way to get me out on the trail is if I can use the existing tie loops and I think I can do this with the axle straps. I also saw a video where they removed the strap from the ratchet, looped the strap through the wheel and then the D-ring, and then put it back on the ratchet and tied it down. The way I see it this eliminates the issue with it fitting through the rim. So here's my question. The trailer bed is 12 feet long and the tie loops are 1 foot from each corner and the PK3 wheelbase is around 6.6 feet. I don't own the trailer yet so I don't know exactly where I'll position it for the correct tongue weight. So my concern is the factory loops may not be far enough fore and aft to lock things down. It seems the normal approach is to strap the LF tire to the LF of the trailer, LR tire to the LR of the trailer, etc. If this doesn't work for me, will it work to reverse the straps? In other words, does it work if I strap the LF tire to the LR tie loop (pulling the front tire backwards), LR tire to the LF tie loop (pulling the rear tire forward), etc.? If so and I can do it where the straps don't rub where they cross, I think I can get rolling.

If you're fastening to welded on side rails you should be good in just about any situation. If not, you have bigger problems. Quick connect ramps that are used as side rails could be iffy.

Shock Therapy has a strap system that have a 'free end' that will fit through any wheel. Probably spendy but so are our buggies.

My opinion on tying front to rear and rear to front, I'm not sure I can get this across in text but here goes -
Try to picture extreme conditions. If you're tied like you suggest - will the front or rear of the buggy stay down in an extreme situation? This scenario is easy to see if you take the time to picture it. There are utoob videos showing why NOT to tie across the front or rear like we've all seen and think is the best way, Same goes for tying front to rear and rear to front. It seems, in extreme conditions, that either end can lift - using your imagination. It seems to me that tying the front DOWN to the front and the rear DOWN to the rear will prevent either end from lifting in those extreme conditions that we all hope never happen but hope we're secured IF they do.

I can picture this in my head but I could explain it better in person. It's not possible to explain my life's experiences in one post.

 

[MortForShort]

If you're fastening to welded on side rails you should be good in just about any situation. If not, you have bigger problems. Quick connect ramps that are used as side rails could be iffy.

Well I guess you could say it's welded. I've got no experience with aluminum or welding aluminum so I have no idea if this is good enough. If I can rely on the rail and if I can fit the strap through my wheel, I think I'm in good shape. But they seem lighter on the welds than I think I would do if I was a welder, which I'm not. Thanks for taking all my questions!

And I think I can see the issue you're describing with the front to rear / rear to front straps.

 

[CID]

Well I guess you could say it's welded. I've got no experience with aluminum or welding aluminum so I have no idea if this is good enough. If I can rely on the rail and if I can fit the strap through my wheel, I think I'm in good shape. But they seem lighter on the welds than I think I would do if I was a welder, which I'm not. Thanks for taking all my questions!

And I think I can see the issue you're describing with the front to rear / rear to front straps.

View attachment 421127

Aluma has a good reputation for their aluminum trailers but those welds look like crap to me. That small tie down loop is welded to the side of that thin extrusion, no way I'd tie anything to it. I'm not a weldor (person) and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night either. lol

Look at the second photo in post 20, that's how I'd tie my buggy to an alum. trailer - run a length of chain with a hook to the stake pockets with a 2" ratchet strap to tighten. Be sure to loop the chain once through the stake pocket so the hook is pointing down, being held in place by gravity if the chain were to go completely loose. If the hook is pointing up and the chain goes slack, it will drop out of the pocket. Sorry, I can't find a photo to show the idea.

 

[CID]

Here's an example of what I'd be looking at. Unfortunately, he doesn't show the hook hanging down like I suggested. These would also run through the spokes if that's the way you wanted to go.

Too much talkin' but ...

 

[CID]

I found a pretty good photo of hanging the hook down. Here, it's hooked to the rub rail, you would be going to the top edge of the stake pocket.

At 9:23, the rusty chain, not the clean, silver one -

 

[MortForShort]

Aluma has a good reputation for their aluminum trailers but those welds look like crap to me. That small tie down loop is welded to the side of that thin extrusion, no way I'd tie anything to it. I'm not a weldor (person) and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night either. lol

Look at the second photo in post 20, that's how I'd tie my buggy to an alum. trailer - run a length of chain with a hook to the stake pockets with a 2" ratchet strap to tighten.

My thought as well. I've admired Aluma trailers from afar for probably seven or eight years. A couple of years ago I saw one outside a restaurant while Jeeping in Colorado and wandered over to take a look. I was truly surprised by the welds given all of the good things I've heard. At the time I figured maybe it was a pandemic thing but I guess it is just how they are. But I've talked to several Aluma owners since then and they all are sold on them. They are the only aluminum trailer readily available in my area so this is where I'm at.

Your description makes sense and the videos confirm it for me. Thanks for putting in the effort to find and include them. The dealer I've been working with has the tilt version of the trailer I'm interested in and that's what I've been going off of. They are bringing in the version I actually want from their other location and it should be here by Friday. I'm told the only difference is it doesn't tilt and has a bi-fold gate. I think your stake pocket approach is a good one that I expect I'll rely on. Once they get it in, I also want to see if I can connect a second straps to the frame without it coming loose. I think having 2 straps on the front (1 on each front wheel pulling forward and out) and 4 straps on the back (1 on each back wheel pulling back and out and 1 on each rear control arm pulling back to different tie points should spread the load by more than enough to be safe. Not sure if that makes sense but I know what I mean.

Thanks again for hanging with me on this and providing all the good pics and videos. Hopefully by this weekend I'll either have a new Aluma trailer or I'll be deciding what I can budge on to land on a different trailer that will work for me.

 

[CID]

I enjoy brainstorming, sharing as many ideas as possible before you make a purchase. That way you go in with some ideas and have a clue of what you're going to want to use for years to come. It's unlikely that I'll be the guy saying - well, you should have done this, that and the other thing, after you bring home a new 'whatever'.

I have ideas, some good, some bad and I lay them out on the table. You're free to pick up the ones that work for you and ignore the rest.

Post up some photos when you have them.

 

[Buckshot07]

Use axle straps on the square tubing rails of that Aluma.

 

[BigDeeeeeeee]

I have three pairs of the double studs and one pair of singles on my 10’ Featherlight. It worked but in was too cramped, hence the single points mounted to the rail. I never felt like it wasn’t secure just too small.

When I upgraded to the 14’ Aluma I had Mac’s cut me some 13’ L track so I have more options.

 

[MortForShort]

When I upgraded to the 14’ Aluma I had Mac’s cut me some 13’ L track so I have more options.

Hey BigDeeeeeeee, Thanks for the response and the pictures! Hopefully you'll take a couple questions.

On the double stud anchors, were you just using the Mac's-supplied backing plates or did you provide extra bracing? While using them, did you recall ever having to do any quick stops? I'd think they'd be fine for just towing down the road. What I'm less sure of what might happen in a scenario where I have to stand on the brakes. I called Mac's and the guy I talked to was very helpful. He insisted that there are a lot of these in use on Aluma trailers with just the supplied backing plate with no issues but I can't help wanting to hear real world experiences.

How is the L channel (or whatever it is called) bracing the front tires installed? It looks like it is connected to the L track but I can't tell what type of connector it uses.

What are you using as backing for the long L track? Is there a chance you can post an underside view? Thanks!

 

[BigDeeeeeeee]

I just used the Mac’s backing plates. On the rear most pair I have them mounted right on the frame of the Featherlight, stout as hell. I had some hard stops, never budged, I always felt it would take a hell of a wreck to separate Honda from trailer.

On the track I had them drill it every 2”, it doesn’t have a bolt every 2” because the extrusions get in the way in spots but it has more than enough to be solid, the stock track only gets drilled every 6” IIRC. I only used the large fender washers and nylock nuts on each 1/4-20 bolt. Link to hardware. Although I used enough nuts and bolts that instead of getting it all from Mac’s I went down to Fastenal and picked up all the stainless stuff for a fraction.

My angle stop is mounted with a couple of their versatie threaded studs.

You can see on the track that every hole didn’t get a bolt but more have them than don’t.

 

[Rayger143]

I have three pairs of the double studs and one pair of singles on my 10’ Featherlight. It worked but in was too cramped, hence the single points mounted to the rail. I never felt like it wasn’t secure just too small.

When I upgraded to the 14’ Aluma I had Mac’s cut me some 13’ L track so I have more options.

View attachment 421512 View attachment 421513 View attachment 421514 View attachment 421515 View attachment 421516

Nice!

 

[MortForShort]

I just used the Mac’s backing plates. On the rear most pair I have them mounted right on the frame of the Featherlight, stout as hell. I had some hard stops, never budged, I always felt it would take a hell of a wreck to separate Honda from trailer.

On the track I had them drill it every 2”, it doesn’t have a bolt every 2” because the extrusions get in the way in spots but it has more than enough to be solid, the stock track only gets drilled every 6” IIRC. I only used the large fender washers and nylock nuts on each 1/4-20 bolt. Link to hardware. Although I used enough nuts and bolts that instead of getting it all from Mac’s I went down to Fastenal and picked up all the stainless stuff for a fraction.

My angle stop is mounted with a couple of their versatie threaded studs.

You can see on the track that every hole didn’t get a bolt but more have them than don’t.

Thanks, this is very helpful.

That's a nice trailer. I considered a Featherlite early in my search but it seems the dealers within a couple of hours of me only carry stock trailers. Thanks again!