P1000 Macs Double Stud Anchors on Aluminum Trailer

[MortForShort]

I'm nearing the point of purchasing an Aluma 7712H trailer. The primary duty will be to haul my PK3 but it will also be used for hauling motorcycles, my mower, etc. Based on the feedback here, my current plan is to use Mac's tire nets to secure the PK3 to the trailer.

Does anyone have experience using Mac's Double Stud Anchor kits as tie down points on an aluminum trailer? The are spendy and don't offer some of the conveniences of e-track but they also take significantly less space, require drilling significantly fewer holes and will work better with many of my other planned uses for the trailer. Mac's claims the 3 small machine screws, locking nuts, and backing plate offer 5,000 lbs minimum break strength. This is even when installed through just the extruded aluminum trailer deck and not through stringers, frame rails, etc. Has anyone had experience using these in sudden stop or hard braking situations? If so, how did they hold up? Would you recommend them? I guess I'm surprised the small plate is enough to keep them from pulling through the extruded aluminum floor but I'll admit I'm nowhere near being an engineer.

Double Stud Anchor Plate Kit with Idler - 1" Fastener (4-Pack) | Mac's Custom Tie-Downs

Double Stud Anchor Plate Kit with Idler - 1" Fastener (4-Pack)

www.macscustomtiedowns.com

 

[NewHere2]

This is what Aluma uses for floor decking. (decking plank is upside down) That top thickness is approximately 3/32” , ya, just over a 1/16” ! I would definitely put a reinforcing 1/4” plate under the T ribs and bolt thru all of it.

I have no knowledge on those tie downs.

You might consider having them dealer installed just in case there is ever a problem.

 

[pappyo]

1st. Welcome from upstate central New York

Many good people and information on Honda Forum

fyi: A Few are more full of themselves than others

Using Aluma since 2010
78x16 ramps
82x18 power tilt
82x14 tilt 5200# axle ( 3 total </> 2 tilt & 1 with Ramps )

Added extra 6000# Recessed Swivel / D - Rings <> with 1/4" backer plates to each trailer

Take NO CHANCES </> the unpredictable
Can Happen be READY not sorry.

In My Opinion
No such thing as Over Kill Holding a Load on a Trailer or in a Truck.

Seen 3 people Burn to Death </> in proper load tie-down
Seen Several loads fall off trucks.

Nice ride keep it Safe
Enjoy the Toy and Make All Good Memories

 

[Remington]

The primary duty will be to haul my PK3

@NewHere2 knows what hes talkin about.
I personally like my 16’ steal tandem trailer. Had it over 10yrs and no reinforcement's needed. In other words, No worries when Im haulin many miles.

Whatever you do take pics and post em up on here. Remember you started the thread😉
You haven't even posted pics of your ride yet so…POIDH

 

[Vikes79]

I'm nearing the point of purchasing an Aluma 7712H trailer. The primary duty will be to haul my PK3 but it will also be used for hauling motorcycles, my mower, etc. Based on the feedback here, my current plan is to use Mac's tire nets to secure the PK3 to the trailer.

Does anyone have experience using Mac's Double Stud Anchor kits as tie down points on an aluminum trailer? The are spendy and don't offer some of the conveniences of e-track but they also take significantly less space, require drilling significantly fewer holes and will work better with many of my other planned uses for the trailer. Mac's claims the 3 small machine screws, locking nuts, and backing plate offer 5,000 lbs minimum break strength. This is even when installed through just the extruded aluminum trailer deck and not through stringers, frame rails, etc. Has anyone had experience using these in sudden stop or hard braking situations? If so, how did they hold up? Would you recommend them? I guess I'm surprised the small plate is enough to keep them from pulling through the extruded aluminum floor but I'll admit I'm nowhere near being an engineer.

Double Stud Anchor Plate Kit with Idler - 1" Fastener (4-Pack) | Mac's Custom Tie-Downs

Double Stud Anchor Plate Kit with Idler - 1" Fastener (4-Pack)

www.macscustomtiedowns.com

With etrack you have many holes and screws making for a robust method.

I’m not a fan of the puck type idea…that’s a ton of force on very few screws that appear to be quite small in diameter. I’d rather use a d-ring and robust backing plates myself. You can get ratchet straps with a snap hook to use with the d rings pretty easily.

 

[Remington]

With etrack you have many holes and screws making for a robust method.

I agree with this☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻☝🏻
I have it on my trailer

 

[MortForShort]

This is what Aluma uses for floor decking. (decking plank is upside down) That top thickness is approximately 3/32” , ya, just over a 1/16” ! I would definitely put a reinforcing 1/4” plate under the T ribs and bolt thru all of it.

I have no knowledge on those tie downs.

You might consider having them dealer installed just in case there is ever a problem.

Thanks NewHere2. 3/32" is actually 1/32" more than I figured as it does seem thin. But it doesn't look thick enough to provide me with much peace of mind. Thanks again for the information.

 

[MortForShort]

Added extra 6000# Recessed Swivel / D - Rings <> with 1/4" backer plates to each trailer

Thanks for the response pappyo.

I talked to the dealer about D-ring. I guess they install them on trailers with wood decks but not the aluminum trailers. I've considered adding them myself but found a video showing where a guy had to shave the ribs to have room for the d-ring. I may need to just buy one and take it to the dealer and see if it looks like it'll fit from underneath. Thanks again.

 

[MortForShort]

@NewHere2 knows what hes talkin about.
I personally like my 16’ steal tandem trailer. Had it over 10yrs and no reinforcement's needed. In other words, No worries when Im haulin many miles.

Whatever you do take pics and post em up on here. Remember you started the thread😉
You haven't even posted pics of your ride yet so…POIDH

Thanks for the response Remington. A tandem 16 footer would be sweet but not an option for me. The HOA makes me park it inside and I'm limited on available space.

Currently traveling but will try to get some pics when I return in a couple of days. Thanks!

 

[MortForShort]

With etrack you have many holes and screws making for a robust method.

I’m not a fan of the puck type idea…that’s a ton of force on very few screws that appear to be quite small in diameter. I’d rather use a d-ring and robust backing plates myself. You can get ratchet straps with a snap hook to use with the d rings pretty easily.

Thanks Vikes79.

Yeah, the size and few screws make it attractive since I don't want to poke too many holes in a shiny new trailer but it raises the concern of how it holds up when really needed. It seems underbuilt from what I expected. But they seem to be a popular option with good reviews so I figured it was worth asking here. I do like the etrack. I'll have to give the possibility of drilling more holes some additional thought. Thanks again!

 

[Remington]

Thanks for the response Remington. A tandem 16 footer would be sweet but not an option for me. The HOA makes me park it inside and I'm limited on available space.

Currently traveling but will try to get some pics when I return in a couple of days. Thanks!

Thays why Ill necer buy a home with an HOA
Its almost like living in Commiefornia

 

[pappyo]

Pictures Show Recessed D-Ring & piece cut out ( from Aluma Trailer ) Requires cutting ONE Rib.

1/4 inch Auminum plate used Underneath
SS Bolts </> 3/8 x 2-1/2 in.
Exten through </> D-Ring / Floor Past Ribes / 1/4 Plate

would definitely put a reinforcing 1/4" plate under the T ribs and thru all of it

 

[Jankyeye]

I know this isn’t what your asking but…

I have a sure-track aluminum deck trailer and installed e track using Aluminum L Chanel as a brace underneath to spread the load without cutting the corrugated flooring. Best pic I have at the moment.

 

[Jankyeye]

I also installed a single point motorcycle mount using 1/4” aluminum plate.

 

[DRZRon1]

I'm nearing the point of purchasing an Aluma 7712H trailer. The primary duty will be to haul my PK3 but it will also be used for hauling motorcycles, my mower, etc. Based on the feedback here, my current plan is to use Mac's tire nets to secure the PK3 to the trailer.

Does anyone have experience using Mac's Double Stud Anchor kits as tie down points on an aluminum trailer? The are spendy and don't offer some of the conveniences of e-track but they also take significantly less space, require drilling significantly fewer holes and will work better with many of my other planned uses for the trailer. Mac's claims the 3 small machine screws, locking nuts, and backing plate offer 5,000 lbs minimum break strength. This is even when installed through just the extruded aluminum trailer deck and not through stringers, frame rails, etc. Has anyone had experience using these in sudden stop or hard braking situations? If so, how did they hold up? Would you recommend them? I guess I'm surprised the small plate is enough to keep them from pulling through the extruded aluminum floor but I'll admit I'm nowhere near being an engineer.

Double Stud Anchor Plate Kit with Idler - 1" Fastener (4-Pack) | Mac's Custom Tie-Downs

Double Stud Anchor Plate Kit with Idler - 1" Fastener (4-Pack)

www.macscustomtiedowns.com

see pic below - that is tractor trailer floor decking - strong as hell - we extrude miles of it - its 6061, just put a plate underneath and never look back....

I use my trailer for hauling talon, itv and it doubles as a mulch and stone hauler - all that e-trac and stuff in the floor stuff would be a pita

I just tie the machine down in all 4 corners to the sides and front of the trailer - I get it by the book it should be tied down by the wheels - but, its in park, im anchoring it down just to prevent it from sliding around - nothing more, it isn't going anywhere

 

[Jankyeye]

see pic below -

Is it me or did you forget the pic?

 

[MortForShort]

Pictures Show Recessed D-Ring & piece cut out ( from Aluma Trailer ) Requires cutting ONE Rib.

The pictures help a lot. I was hoping if I went this route I wouldn't have to cut the rib. Very helpful to know this might be required before purchasing. I think I'm going to try to drive out to the dealer later this week and take another look. Maybe I can just go with axle straps through the wheels strapped to the 4 factory tie down points. I was leaning this way initially but I'm not sure the tie-down loop locations may be too close to the PK3 wheels. Or perhaps I need to start looking at a different trailer.

 

[MortForShort]

I have a sure-track aluminum deck trailer and installed e track using Aluminum L Chanel as a brace underneath to spread the load without cutting the corrugated flooring.

That looks like a nice setup. And the motorcycle mount is probably how I'll go as it looks more substantial than what comes with the chock I'm considering. Thanks!

 

[Jankyeye]

That looks like a nice setup. And the motorcycle mount is probably how I'll go as it looks more substantial than what comes with the chock I'm considering. Thanks!

I really like the BikerBar, simple to use, removable and solid.

Biker Bar | B&W Trailer Hitches

Take your bike, ditch your straps! The Biker Bar is a totally unique concept and a complete departure from the cumbersome straps, motorcycle wheel chocks and bolt-on systems that can be ineffective, unsightly and cause damage to paint, chrome and leather finishes.

www.bwtrailerhitches.com

 

[CID]

The pictures help a lot. I was hoping if I went this route I wouldn't have to cut the rib. Very helpful to know this might be required before purchasing. I think I'm going to try to drive out to the dealer later this week and take another look. Maybe I can just go with axle straps through the wheels strapped to the 4 factory tie down points. I was leaning this way initially but I'm not sure the tie-down loop locations may be too close to the PK3 wheels. Or perhaps I need to start looking at a different trailer.

IF the axle strap D-rings will fit through your spokes, this has worked well for me. They won't fit through stock Talon wheels, for instance.

Front -

This is my front to rear adjustment (tongue weight), you can't see that the chain is about 15 links long and quickly adjustable. I didn't wrap the cotter pins, I just splayed the ends. I've since changed over to R-clips, even faster.

Rear -

One of the attachments I used for awhile -

That evolved to this -