P1000m5 Mounting Everything Under the Hood

Scoop

Scoop

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I saw that at Home Depot just yesterday and wondered what the hell it was...
A lot cheaper than a dedicated right angle drill:

1636256906252
 
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shaundeere

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Aug 25, 2019
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I mounted my winch solenoid on the far left to the left of the fuse panel. It's just screwed into the plastic. Holds fine. I wanted it on that side because the winch terminals are on the same side and made the shortest wire run. My fuse panel is screwed to the top of the air intake cover on a mounting plate. I just trimmed off a couple of the "fins". My bus bars are just screwed into the plastic. My auxiliary relay is mounted to the outside of the glove box so its hidden from view and doesnt clutter up the underhood area. One small tip is if you live where it gets cold, ditch the stinger, they are known to fail when it gets cold. The Cole Hersee marine grade one doesnt seem to have that issue. My relay box is mounted behind the switch panel to the top of the lower cargo pocket. I wanted to keep the underhood area as close to factory looking as possible. My tru isolator is just mounted with 3m double side tape. I would label everything on the picture but I cant figure out how to add text to my pics but you can see everything anyway. I can add other pics if you want to see the relay box and switch panel. I also used alot of zip ties and wire loom because I cant stand wires all over the place. Best of luck.

View attachment 356477
So a lot of folks seem to be using a stinger or some type of solenoid as a relay to run their acc fuse box. I’m not sure I understand the reason? I always understood those large solenoids were meant for switching high current stuff like starters. I realize they claim to be continuous duty, but don’t they generate a good amount of heat? Seems overkill to me since my fuse block is only powering a few lights, radio, and such. I’m planning on using a simple cube relay rated at 40 amps. Am I missing something?
 
Bow4life

Bow4life

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So a lot of folks seem to be using a stinger or some type of solenoid as a relay to run their acc fuse box. I’m not sure I understand the reason? I always understood those large solenoids were meant for switching high current stuff like starters. I realize they claim to be continuous duty, but don’t they generate a good amount of heat? Seems overkill to me since my fuse block is only powering a few lights, radio, and such. I’m planning on using a simple cube relay rated at 40 amps. Am I missing something?
The Cole Hersee one I bought is rated for continuous duty. It's also a marine grade part so moisture will not be an issue. My system is way overkill for what I run, but I wanted the ability to expand it later if necessary without needing to change hardware. Alot of folks on here run way more accessories like high current light bars and sound systems. Yes you're right about the large solenoids. As long as your whole system is under the relay capacity you should be good to go.
 
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MC_Crowbar

MC_Crowbar

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Mar 4, 2018
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So a lot of folks seem to be using a stinger or some type of solenoid as a relay to run their acc fuse box. I’m not sure I understand the reason? I always understood those large solenoids were meant for switching high current stuff like starters. I realize they claim to be continuous duty, but don’t they generate a good amount of heat? Seems overkill to me since my fuse block is only powering a few lights, radio, and such. I’m planning on using a simple cube relay rated at 40 amps. Am I missing something?
I used a 50A rated cube relay, and I think you only get about 40A of continous current through one without risking damage. Now that I have a couple sets of lights, sound bar, an external amp, and would still like to add more someday (like reverse lights and turn signals now that it can be made street legal), I’m probably pushing that relay’s limits at times. I just don’t like being limited.
 
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Scoop

Scoop

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  2. 1000-5

  3. Talon R LV
65A continuous duty rated ... and I run a lot more than just "a few lights, radio, and such".
 
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