P500 Offset Question

[trigger]

Been researching this for a bit and not finding my answer. Don't know why I didn't just ask this forum in the first place. With the amount of knowledge and experience in here, someone will have some insight.
So, I bought new wheels for the P5, going to have the BH 2.0's mounted on them. That leaves me with the factory wheels and tires. Wanted to use the front wheels and tires on the utv trailer. From what I've learned, trailer bolt patterns are 4 on 4. P5 wheels are 4/110. So I know I'll need adapters to bolt these up.
My question is in regards to offset. Trailers supposedly have a zero offset. Will I need spacers?

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Most likely yes, but you pose a tough question to answer.
I have heard of people running wheels backward. that would give you a positive offset that might work.
Looks like you have some modifications coming either way with the fenders.
Good luck and keep us updated.

 

[iowaguy]

Been researching this for a bit and not finding my answer. Don't know why I didn't just ask this forum in the first place. With the amount of knowledge and experience in here, someone will have some insight.
So, I bought new wheels for the P5, going to have the BH 2.0's mounted on them. That leaves me with the factory wheels and tires. Wanted to use the front wheels and tires on the utv View attachment 35870 trailer. From what I've learned, trailer bolt patterns are 4 on 4. P5 wheels are 4/110. So I know I'll need adapters to bolt these up.
My question is in regards to offset. Trailers supposedly have a zero offset. Will I need spacers?

I think if you measure the distance from the face of the hub into the trailer this will tell you the offset you will be able to run,I don't know what your setup is for axle, but if you could use a longer tube between them ,it would give you clearance, but your trailer would end up being wider, you will need about 7" from the face of the hub to the trailer, you could make your adapters accordingly to the thickness you would need.

 

[Jshell3]

Most likely yes, but you pose a tough question to answer.
I have heard of people running wheels backward. that would give you a positive offset that might work.
Looks like you have some modifications coming either way with the fenders.
Good luck and keep us updated.

I'm no expert, but I do have firsthand experience with running rims backwards and it didn't end well.
Turns out if you look closely at the holes, they have a slightly protruding flange that allows the backside of the steel rim to sit flat against the hub, and the protruding flange offers resistance against the acorn shape of the lug nut. Turn that wheel around, and the flange reverses, touching the hub first so the acorn shape of the lug bottoms out before it can properly compress the wheel to the hub...

All that to say... your trailer wheel will leave you. As mine did to me on a Sunday night about 2 months ago. Lol. P500 lived. But I lost 3 of my 5 studs and the entire rim.

TLDR: Don't turn that rim around.

 

[lonewolf]

The wheels on the trailer now, aren't 12" are they? If so, would it be possible to mount the tires on them? Would be a lot easier than making adapters, if that would work.

If not, your best bet is probably going to be to fab an adapter and spacer all in one. Measure the distance as mentioned above and make the distance of the spacer accordingly.

Turning the wheel around backwards would not be a good option, if they are stock wheels because they are made to use tapered lug nuts, so backwards would not allow the lug nuts to seat correctly.

I've seen aftermarket wheels that will work either way, but they aren't tapered, and they use a lock washer and nut, instead of tapered lug nuts.

 

[trigger]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I'm sure I'll have to make some modifications to the fenders, I raised them once already when I jumped up to 12" wheels. It came with 8"s.
Yeah, I'm not flipping any wheels backwards...that's some ugly sh** right there J!
Looked at mounting the front P5 tires on these rims but I believe these are 4" wide, that's pretty tight. Concerns with bead leaks under low pressure?
New and old wheels/tires are at Belle Tire right now getting mounted up. I'll get a good look once I'm able to set them up against the trailer.
I'll keep you posted as this whole trailer set up may change. Saw pics of this rig online...BA!

 

[ohanacreek]

If you have the know how and tools to do so I think a custom trailer is going to be more what you need. I have been looking for something we could overnight with on the trail and I need something for around the house(mulch, cleanup. hauling wood. etc...) two trailers is twice as much to store and I have considered a trail "module" that would slide into the dump bed or replace the bed of a trailer I could use mostly around the house. I have 12' ceilings in my garage so if I kept it 24-36" high I could suspend it from the ceiling when I am not using it.

 

[lonewolf]

Yes unfortunately, most 12" trailer wheels are 12x4" and would probably be to tight. Most 12" atv/utv wheels are going to be 5/2" & 2/5" offsets. 12x6" , 3/3 offset, on a 4/4 bolt pattern, would be much better if you could find a such thing. There are much better atv steel wheel options in 8" and 10" wheels that would work on that trailer.

Also, I built and welded a trailer, similar to yours, when I was 17 years old(a few decades ago, lol), with atv tires, and wheels, using a homemade adaptor plate, to fit the 4/4 bolt pattern, without fenders, and it threw mud everywhere. I then went to the style trailer tires, and wheels your has, bolted directly to the hub, and added fenders, and I am still using it today.

If your going with atv tires, I'd recommend a trailer style, similar to the one you posted below, where the wheels are under the trailer, and not use fenders, especially if you ride in any muddy terrain.

 

[trigger]

Just got burned on lug nuts for the new wheels. Figured that would be the easy part, no uh uh. Need 12mm x 1.50 x 60 w/spline tool. Can't find those in stock anywhere around here. Ordered them up but now I have to wait. Ughhh!

 

[trigger]

Yes unfortunately, most 12" trailer wheels are 12x4" and would probably be to tight. Most 12" atv/utv wheels are going to be 5/2" & 2/5" offsets. 12x6" , 3/3 offset, on a 4/4 bolt pattern, would be much better if you could find a such thing. There are much better atv steel wheel options in 8" and 10" wheels that would work on that trailer.

Also, I built and welded a trailer, similar to yours, when I was 17 years old(a few decades ago, lol), with atv tires, and wheels, using a homemade adaptor plate, to fit the 4/4 bolt pattern, without fenders, and it threw mud everywhere. I then went to the style trailer tires, and wheels your has, bolted directly to the hub, and added fenders, and I am still using it today.

If your going with atv tires, I'd recommend a trailer style, similar to the one you posted below, where the wheels are under the trailer, and not use fenders, especially if you ride in any muddy terrain.

Thanks for the info @lonewolf . Started looking at different wheels and came across some steel 10" x 6" ers online with zero offset and 4 on 4 bolt pattern for trailers. Pretty cheap too, like $26 each. Looked at tires for them and they're roughly $50 each for 23x7x10 Kenda Bear Claws. 7" wide might just fit under those fenders?

 

[lonewolf]

Yes, it would be nice to find a wheel that would bolt right on, and a tire that would fit under the existing fenders! Can't say for sure on that combination, but sounds like it would be close. Maybe measure the height on the existing tires, to see how close in comparison. Usually most atv tires don't run true to size, so that could help you.

Also the backspace difference on the new wheels will probably extend an 1" further in, since it's a 6" wide wheel compared to 4", so need to verify that you have that much to play with before it makes contact with the trailer. Same goes for extending out another 1", so make sure it wouldn't rub the lip on the outside of fender.

On a more extreme conversion, you could build off the trailer you have, and turn it into the style in post #6, but your best bet is prolly having someone weld you an aluminum box, and attach it to your trailer. Would be sweet if you,could have it done at a reasonable cost.

Lastly, you could leave it as it is, as it's functional now. Are you mainly wanting to switch tires to have a smoother off-road trailer?

 

[trigger]

Yes, it would be nice to find a wheel that would bolt right on, and a tire that would fit under the existing fenders! Can't say for sure on that combination, but sounds like it would be close. Maybe measure the height on the existing tires, to see how close in comparison. Usually most atv tires don't run true to size, so that could help you.

Also the backspace difference on the new wheels will probably extend an 1" further in, since it's a 6" wide wheel compared to 4", so need to verify that you have that much to play with before it makes contact with the trailer. Same goes for extending out another 1", so make sure it wouldn't rub the lip on the outside of fender.

On a more extreme conversion, you could build off the trailer you have, and turn it into the style in post #6, but your looking at welding and a lot of work.

Lastly, you could leave it as it is, as it's functional now. Are you mainly wanting to switch tires to have a smoother off-road trailer?

Got a pretty good look at it today, fenders are 6" wide so I'll be outside of them regardless. The height of the wheel and tire on it now is around 21", so I should only have to raise the fender 1". I would have to put at least 1" spacers on, it only rides an inch off the inside now.
It might get more extreme, I'm kicking it around. This trailer has built in stake pockets. I could utilize those, build it out of wood and wrap it in thin diamond plate like I did the bed. Or... leave it as it is.
Looked BA in chrome!

 

[lonewolf]

Got a pretty good look at it today, fenders are 6" wide so I'll be outside of them regardless. The height of the wheel and tire on it now is around 21", so I should only have to raise the fender 1". I would have to put at least 1" spacers on, it only rides an inch off the inside now.
It might get more extreme, I'm kicking it around. This trailer has built in stake pockets. I could utilize those, build it out of wood and wrap it in thin diamond plate like I did the bed. Or... leave it as it is.
View attachment 36930 View attachment 36931 Looked BA in chrome!

Yes you have options. The diamond plate box looks great!

 

[Mudder]

I think if you measure the distance from the face of the hub into the trailer this will tell you the offset you will be able to run,I don't know what your setup is for axle, but if you could use a longer tube between them ,it would give you clearance, but your trailer would end up being wider, you will need about 7" from the face of the hub to the trailer, you could make your adapters accordingly to the thickness you would need.

Remember to subtract width of outer rim flange, 1/2 in. From a Youtube video from vendor??

 

[trigger]

Remember to subtract width of outer rim flange, 1/2 in. From a Youtube video from vendor??

I rolled the dice and went 1 1/2" spacers. That was just doing the math. Hope they work.