P1000 Oil pressure light issue

[Zillad3004x4]

Hello all, I have a p1000 in my shop for an oil change and clutches. It was all fairly simple of an install, but now I am having issues with the oil pressure system.

I have a manual on the way for myself, but I have looked all through a buddy's manual and not being much help. So here is what's going on.

Bottom side of the clutch cover there are three pressure sensors. The passenger side sensor and the middle sensor have oil behind them. The driver side sensor does not have oil behind it. I feel like I can safely assume that is what is causing my oil pressure light issue but I cannot find an accurate diagram to start back tracking the problem.

I have verified both oil pumps are working properly.

Any words of advice or maybe a honda tech who can help me get through this one? PLEASE??????

 

[Admin]

 

[Ridem32]

Maybe the oil filter is in backwards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Zillad3004x4]

Maybe the oil filter is in backwards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Negative.

 

[HondaTech]

What was wrong with the clutches? Is the light just staying on, what oil pressure issues are you having?
I'm not 100% what sensors should have oil behind them or not, have you tried to initialize the clutch after installing it?
I've had on the oil seals on the clutch shaft get nicked and that caused an oil pressure problem, but the light didn't stay on or anything it just wouldn't initialize after install.

 

[Dawson]

Oil light on pioneer 1000/3

 

[Dawson]

Oil light oil and to reset have to turn engine off and restart Honda says sensor problems at 641 miles clutch pack changed

 

[Silentx]

Have them contact Honda. Mine too has this same problem. It's due to the machine idling down ever so slightly and with the new flow created from the clutch cover upgrade it drops the pressure enough to trip it. Honda has a part made just for this some sort of pin that goes on the end of the sensor to keep the pressure from dipping to low. Had mine fixed no more issues....

 

[HondaTech]

I've had a few that when doing the clutch cover update the plunger for the fail safe is difficult or impossible to remove. If this plunger gets stuck it can cause oil pressure issues as well.

By the way the oil pressure light could mean low, or high. It just detects incorrect oil pressure in the wrong spot. I chased one with a random light after being ridden very hard. Oil pressure at the test port was within the range even with the light on. Turns out the plunger was sticking and forcing oil to the wrong spot.

You can check to see if it's free by removing the fail safe screw(flat head on clutch cover) and pushing on the plunger to see if it springs back. It should not stick.

 

[russknight]

Is there a port you can access to connect a gauge to?

 

[HondaTech]

Is there a port you can access to connect a gauge to?

The only exterior port is for engine oil pressure.

The only way to read trans oil pressures is with our MCS diagnostic tool.

 

[russknight]

The only exterior port is for engine oil pressure.

The only way to read trans oil pressures is with our MCS diagnostic tool.

Sorry I wasn't clearer, I was referring to engine oil pressure.

 

[X502XGEOFF]

Any updates on this? Mine is doing same thing. Light comes on at idle.

 

[IdahoJake]

I had my oil pressure idiot light come on; I'm quite sure it was related to an engine/tranny overheat situation. Idling the engine brought the temp down to normal, but the light stayed on. I was where I WAS FORCED to keep going, so traveled with oil pressure idiot light on for 10 miles. It never went off. However, next morning upon start up, idiot light did not come on. There was no engine damage. NOTE: Idiot light detects Dual Clutch Tranny oil pressure, NOT engine oil pressure. I think the oil pressure sensor initially worked properly by detecting low oil pressure from oil being hot. Maybe, if I had shut the engine off at the time, it would have reset the sensor...or sensor should have gone off when the oil pressure came back to normal.(?) Now, I don't trust the idiot light system, so installed an oil pressure gauge. 2 problems in doing that; 1) the Service Manual says the oil pressure is supposed to be 72-85 PSI. Turns out, that is a minimum. On my P1K with only 150 hrs, the oil pressure is 100 PSI, which is normal. Honda recommends a 160 PSI gauge. 2) Most mechanical gauges come with NPT adapters for the oil line from the engine to the gauge. I when to a lot of trouble modifying my adapter from NPT to M8-1.25, to screw it into the oil pressure test port by the engine oil dipstick (see 2 photos). See more in-depth description in another thread in this Forum.

 

[IdahoJake]

P.S. If you want to replace the oil pressure sensor, of the 3 side-by-side DCT sensors, it's the one furthest on the left. See white plastic cubes in photo. ! NOTE !: PHOTO POSTED UPSIDE DOWN!?!?

 

[CID]

 

[EMAW]

Had the oil light issue also. Verified the E/limp mode valve was not stuck, Installed a pressure gauge. With the engine warmed to 2 bars using the GN4 10w-30 oil, the oil pressure would drop to 24-28psi @ idle….at that point the oil light would trip on. And reset itself after a restart.
I changed to GN4 10w-40 oil. This solved my issue with the oil pressure light. My oil pressure now maintains 32-38psi @ idle.

 

[IdahoJake]

In my comment above, there is much where I didn't go into much depth to keep the posting a reasonable length. One example is about Honda spec. oil pressure. The process is; warm up to 2 bars>speed up to 5K RPM> read oil pressure.

 

[EMAW]

In my comment above, there is much where I didn't go into much depth to keep the posting a reasonable length. One example is about Honda spec. oil pressure. The process is; warm up to 2 bars>speed up to 5K RPM> read oil pressure.

Yes, you are correct with the process per the manual. I was just trying to explain what I found that would trip/set my oil pressure light on and keep the posting a reasonable length.

 

[IdahoJake]

So EMAW, in going from 10w-30 to 10w-40, did that make the shifting start to misbehave at all? I ask because I may want to do the same thing, but my P1K is for snowy winter use only. I learned from the Dealer, the DCT shifts by running the oil through small venturis for the shifting process. He made it sound finicky enough, maybe oil weight would throw it off.

 

[EMAW]

So EMAW, in going from 10w-30 to 10w-40, did that make the shifting start to misbehave at all? I ask because I may want to do the same thing, but my P1K is for snowy winter use only. I learned from the Dealer, the DCT shifts by running the oil through small venturis for the shifting process. He made it sound finicky enough, maybe oil weight would throw it off.

There was no change in the DTC shifts or it misbehaving. Although, I allow plenty of warm up time during the winter after a cold start.
The owners manual states: 10w-30 or 10w-40 down to -10*.
My local dealers service manager, suggested trying the 10w-40 oil before taking it in for their diagnostic test (since it was out of warranty). They also could not tell me what the oil pressure should be @ idle, when I ask the question.