P1000 P1000 EPS: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

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0860silverado

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Hello everyone. I bought my 2016 P1000-3 EPS brand new in late December 2016. After six months of ownership I feel like I can give an honest and educated review of the machine.
First... The Good:
Everyone knows that Honda can certainly build a great engine and this piece is no exception. It's strong throught it's rpm range with surprising throttle response, particularly at low (2700ish) rpm and it doesn't seem to mind revving to its 8000 rpm redline. No strange sounds or vibrations from the engine. Starts the same perfect way every time, hot or cold. Idles buttery smooth. Hasn't lost a drop of oil. The engine itself is a beautiful piece of machinery to look at.
The electronic power steering is a must have for a machine this heavy. I didn't want it at first but the only white unit my dealer had in stock included PS. Now, I'm very glad I got it because my Polaris 570 midsize without PS can become a workout while trying to turn slowly or when stopped and it's only 2/3rds the weight of the Honda. It feels natural... like a car with traditional hydraulic power steering.
The suspension soaks up small bumps and large holes with ease, never with any jarring or jerking of the steering wheel. Comfortable, smooth ride.

The Bad:
The thing that puzzles me is, how can the same company that designed such a masterpeice of an engine create such a poorly engineered chassis! It flexes so much that i can hear it and see it warping/deforming my roof and windshield when going over certain terrain.
So far, the transmission is holding up fine but with all the problems these units are having, it scares me. I did opt for the 4 year unlimited mile warranty but I was told that they'll only change one set of clutches under warranty. After that, it's considered abuse. Basic rules... DO NOT TOW ANYTHING!!! EVER!!! When going uphill or through sand or mud, do so in low range and keep transmission in first gear. Thankfully for me most of my use is on road shoulders. Never in mud or sand. I just miss not being able to put my utility trailer in my back yard like I used to do with my 570. I'm babying it as much as possible until Honda (or the aftermarket) comes out with a clutch fix. Hopefully, it'll last until then.
It almost seems as if the machine was designed in a lab by separate teams who never consulted with each other and never tested it in the field. An impossible number of pieces and parts and welds and brackets and plastic fasteners and screws (several of which I had to tighten or replace because they simply fell out) and-and-and some kind of weird network of thick, rattling coat hangers twisted and tied together to (apparently) hold up the floor. Mine had one of it's zip ties inside out so it wasn't "zipping" and it rattled like crazy. It looks like a prototype chassis or something built-as-you-go. "Weld this bracket here...ok...now what? Weld another bracket there to hold this bracket"!!! Real messy under that seat and backrest.
There was an unbelievable amount of heat sucking up from seat and blowing through dash shifter slots!! It made the machine unusable in summer with an already sweltering heat index of 115 degrees! I installed an automotive heatshield material from the front of the seat to the top of the backrest all in one piece with only slits cut for the seat belts and mounts. That was something Honda could've and should've done. Works wonders. I haven't figured a fix for the shifter slots yet.
I bought the factory Honda hard roof, one piece hardcoat windshield, rear panel, side view mirrors and rear view mirror. The windshield leaks badly when traveling through rain. My work requires me to carry important paper charts so this was a major letdown. The windshield-to-roof seal system is a complete failure. I can see daylight through it. I had to stick foam pipe wrap along the windshield pillars to stop the shield from rubbing the pillars. It was almost worn enough to create a split in the windshield and because it took all the paint off, it's now rusted and I'll have to sand/paint that area.
The rear panel screws to hold the window in the panel were all stripped and fell out one by one until I replaced them all with one size larger.
My tilt bed hits the rear panel when I tilt it. (By the way, it is ONLY designed as a tilt bed, not a dump bed so if you have 500 pounds of sand to unload, bring your shovel).
The only way to check your oil is by raising the tilt bed so if you like checking your oil before each ride, be sure not to put your tools or ice chests in the bed before! (Took me about eight screw-ups to get that habit in my head!!)
Too small fuel tank only lets me work 8 or 9 hours per day between fill ups. I'm used to working 12 -14 hour days in the summer.
Too small cup holders won't hold a soda bottle or sports drink bottle. Only cans!!!
Had to make brackets that extended the side view mirrors out 4" because all I could see was the seat behind me instead of the truck barrelling down on me!!
Had to make a bracket that lowered the rear view mirror 7" beacuse all I could see was the ROPS and rear panel shell behind me instead of the truck barrelling down on me!! It could be that Honda uses all the same accessories like mirrors etc for all of their SXS models and they just don't work on the 1000.
Front wheel alignment was so far out of adjustment that my front tires were ruined after 6 hours of use!!! Ordered new tires and checked/adjusted front end alignment. Cost me $230.00.

The Ugly: Aside from the hideous windshield it's a nice looking machine.
 
E

elkguide

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Glad that you've joined us.

Sorry that you've had so many little things bugging you about your rig. I guess that I'm lucky enough to have a great dealer that set my machine up well because I haven't had any of the same issues that you have. Hope you can get things worked out because I think these machines are amazing!

good luck.
 
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0860silverado

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  1. 1000-3
Glad that you've joined us.

Sorry that you've had so many little things bugging you about your rig. I guess that I'm lucky enough to have a great dealer that set my machine up well because I haven't had any of the same issues that you have. Hope you can get things worked out because I think these machines are amazing!

good luck.
Thanks for your concern. It does seem as if several of my issues came from an improper final set up and inspection. I.E. my alignment not set and my rear window screws were overtightened probably with a drill/driver set on high. But Jeez... On a + $17,000.00 machine I expected better attention to detail. Other issues like seat and dash heat are all Honda. To those who aren't experiencing the severe heat issues, the problem arises when a windshield, roof and rear panel are installed on the machine. At speed they create a low pressure condition inside the cab. Two places that the laws of physics resolve this are by sucking air from the engine compartment under the seat which is heated by the engine and exhaust pipes, and, through the four openings in the dash (accelerator and brake pedals, steering wheel column, transmission shifter slot and drive mode shifter slot) which is heated by the radiator. Curiously, my other machine of another brand appears to have the same basic dash design but not one iota of hot air is noticeable. Maybe they got "lucky" that the airflow is directed elsewhere? Dunno.
 
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0860silverado

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It has a 2,000 pound tow rating...I tow my dual axle car hauling trailer (in low of course) around my yard all the time.
Thanks for your response. I know that It's very likely that I may be able to tow light loads for short distances and not have any problems... it's just that I don't want to find out the hard way. Not until Honda releases a revised part and less widespread failures occour. BTW... Does anyone know what is involved in replacing these clutches? Is it something that only a dealership can do or can it be done with common tools? The thought of the same guy who installed my accessories butchering my state of the art transmission makes me shudder. (How many parts will be left over in the box after he buttons it all up!!!)
 
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0860silverado

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Not trying to sound like a jerk...but all the answers to your concerns have been addressed in threads already in place. Search is your friend here. Welcome to the club.
I appreciate the effort, but my original post had no questions. Simply "an honest and educated review of the machine". Thanks for the welcome and I'm sorry I'm jumping in with a sour taste.
 
J

Jshell3

Guest
Hello everyone. I bought my 2016 P1000-3 EPS brand new in late December 2016. After six months of ownership I feel like I can give an honest and educated review of the machine.
First... The Good:
Everyone knows that Honda can certainly build a great engine and this piece is no exception. It's strong throught it's rpm range with surprising throttle response, particularly at low (2700ish) rpm and it doesn't seem to mind revving to its 8000 rpm redline. No strange sounds or vibrations from the engine. Starts the same perfect way every time, hot or cold. Idles buttery smooth. Hasn't lost a drop of oil. The engine itself is a beautiful piece of machinery to look at.
The electronic power steering is a must have for a machine this heavy. I didn't want it at first but the only white unit my dealer had in stock included PS. Now, I'm very glad I got it because my Polaris 570 midsize without PS can become a workout while trying to turn slowly or when stopped and it's only 2/3rds the weight of the Honda. It feels natural... like a car with traditional hydraulic power steering.
The suspension soaks up small bumps and large holes with ease, never with any jarring or jerking of the steering wheel. Comfortable, smooth ride.

The Bad:
The thing that puzzles me is, how can the same company that designed such a masterpeice of an engine create such a poorly engineered chassis! It flexes so much that i can hear it and see it warping/deforming my roof and windshield when going over certain terrain.
So far, the transmission is holding up fine but with all the problems these units are having, it scares me. I did opt for the 4 year unlimited mile warranty but I was told that they'll only change one set of clutches under warranty. After that, it's considered abuse. Basic rules... DO NOT TOW ANYTHING!!! EVER!!! When going uphill or through sand or mud, do so in low range and keep transmission in first gear. Thankfully for me most of my use is on road shoulders. Never in mud or sand. I just miss not being able to put my utility trailer in my back yard like I used to do with my 570. I'm babying it as much as possible until Honda (or the aftermarket) comes out with a clutch fix. Hopefully, it'll last until then.
It almost seems as if the machine was designed in a lab by separate teams who never consulted with each other and never tested it in the field. An impossible number of pieces and parts and welds and brackets and plastic fasteners and screws (several of which I had to tighten or replace because they simply fell out) and-and-and some kind of weird network of thick, rattling coat hangers twisted and tied together to (apparently) hold up the floor. Mine had one of it's zip ties inside out so it wasn't "zipping" and it rattled like crazy. It looks like a prototype chassis or something built-as-you-go. "Weld this bracket here...ok...now what? Weld another bracket there to hold this bracket"!!! Real messy under that seat and backrest.
There was an unbelievable amount of heat sucking up from seat and blowing through dash shifter slots!! It made the machine unusable in summer with an already sweltering heat index of 115 degrees! I installed an automotive heatshield material from the front of the seat to the top of the backrest all in one piece with only slits cut for the seat belts and mounts. That was something Honda could've and should've done. Works wonders. I haven't figured a fix for the shifter slots yet.
I bought the factory Honda hard roof, one piece hardcoat windshield, rear panel, side view mirrors and rear view mirror. The windshield leaks badly when traveling through rain. My work requires me to carry important paper charts so this was a major letdown. The windshield-to-roof seal system is a complete failure. I can see daylight through it. I had to stick foam pipe wrap along the windshield pillars to stop the shield from rubbing the pillars. It was almost worn enough to create a split in the windshield and because it took all the paint off, it's now rusted and I'll have to sand/paint that area.
The rear panel screws to hold the window in the panel were all stripped and fell out one by one until I replaced them all with one size larger.
My tilt bed hits the rear panel when I tilt it. (By the way, it is ONLY designed as a tilt bed, not a dump bed so if you have 500 pounds of sand to unload, bring your shovel).
The only way to check your oil is by raising the tilt bed so if you like checking your oil before each ride, be sure not to put your tools or ice chests in the bed before! (Took me about eight screw-ups to get that habit in my head!!)
Too small fuel tank only lets me work 8 or 9 hours per day between fill ups. I'm used to working 12 -14 hour days in the summer.
Too small cup holders won't hold a soda bottle or sports drink bottle. Only cans!!!
Had to make brackets that extended the side view mirrors out 4" because all I could see was the seat behind me instead of the truck barrelling down on me!!
Had to make a bracket that lowered the rear view mirror 7" beacuse all I could see was the ROPS and rear panel shell behind me instead of the truck barrelling down on me!! It could be that Honda uses all the same accessories like mirrors etc for all of their SXS models and they just don't work on the 1000.
Front wheel alignment was so far out of adjustment that my front tires were ruined after 6 hours of use!!! Ordered new tires and checked/adjusted front end alignment. Cost me $230.00.

The Ugly: Aside from the hideous windshield it's a nice looking machine.
Welcome to the forum. That's quite a first post. A lot of which I agree.
There are TONS of posts related to most of the points you've made.

Dive in! There are also many, many members that are gifted and talented running around here.
Once you get the hang of it, (you and the UPS guy will be on a first name basis), but you'll LOVE the fixes.
 
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J

Jshell3

Guest
Does anyone know what is involved in replacing these clutches? Is it something that only a dealership can do or can it be done with common tools?

I know if I were tasked w/ digging through YEARS of posts, it can be a little overwhelming. So I can help at least answer one of your concerns..
@CumminsPusher wrote an outstanding "How To Guide" on that very subject. (plus, its a great example of what we do for each other around here...)

CLICK THIS LINK BELOW
P1000 - Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!
 
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0860silverado

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  1. 1000-3
I know if I were tasked w/ digging through YEARS of posts, it can be a little overwhelming. So I can help at least answer one of your questions..
@CumminsPusher wrote an outstanding "How To Guide" on that very subject. (plus, its a great example of what we do for each other around here...)

CLICK THIS LINK BELOW
P1000 - Honda Pioneer 1000 Clutch Replacement - A How To Guide!
Thanks so much!!! I typically do all my repairs myself after so many instances of having to go back and fix what a dealership has done. I think I'm gonna like this place. And I may end up liking my P1K as well!
 
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Jshell3

Guest
Thanks so much!!! I typically do all my repairs myself after so many instances of having to go back and fix what a dealership has done. I think I'm gonna like this place. And I may end up liking my P1K as well!
It's no joke. I'm a novice at repairs, myself... but the amount of MODs these guys do will blow your mind. (to the point that I think Honda secretly watches the creativity.)

About dash heat.
Here's a fun one that just sprang up... you might want to follow along.
P1000 - Cover for shifter holes
 
Remington

Remington

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First, welcome to the club! That's a hell of a post you did and I'm exhausted after reading it! Lol like the the other guys said...search is your friend here. There's a ton of post to help your seat heat problem, a bilge fan is a nice add on and a good steam vanisher. Don't hesitate to ask, we can help you with those issues.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Delton

Delton

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Welcome to the forum. I agree on the majority of issues you found. Mine was set up well from the dealer except for steering wheel alignment and a loose tie rod end. As for towing, I'd avoid very low speed plunking around the house pulling weight. But towing in general is one of this beasts greatest assets. A friend and I shared towing a dead Polaris Ranger just yesterday. We drug it through some nasty stuff. Mine drug him up a very long loose rocky hill. At 1941 miles, the original clutches are still showroom tight. Alot has to do with how you drive it. Another tip you should add is don't do full throttle shifts using the paddles. It makes the rpms spike (which in reality is a slipping clutch). I'm confident you will love this machine. I've loved mine since day one.
 
Delton

Delton

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Welcome to the forum. I agree on the majority of issues you found. Mine was set up well from the dealer except for steering wheel alignment and a loose tie rod end. As for towing, I'd avoid very low speed plunking around the house pulling weight. But towing in general is one of this beasts greatest assets. A friend and I shared towing a dead Polaris Ranger just yesterday. We drug it through some nasty stuff. Mine drug him up a very long loose rocky hill. At 1941 miles, the original clutches are still showroom tight. Alot has to do with how you drive it. Another tip you should add is don't do full throttle shifts using the paddles. It makes the rpms spike (which in reality is a slipping clutch). I'm confident you will love this machine. I've loved mine since day one.
To clarify on that shifting, what I meant was accelerate as hard as you want but to shift, I hold throttle steady. That takes some of the load off the drivetrain during the shift. You'll find the rpms don't spike and you have a more solid shift. Enjoy your stay!!
 
RichardM

RichardM

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Low speed towing is the ONLY towing you should do. Any time the vehicle has a load or is working hard it should be in low, according to the manufacturer. I haven't heard of anyone losing clutches in this manner. Bigger tires, mud, holding on slopes....these seem to be common themes.
 
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drfubar

drfubar

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Welcome to the forum. I agree on the majority of issues you found. Mine was set up well from the dealer except for steering wheel alignment and a loose tie rod end. As for towing, I'd avoid very low speed plunking around the house pulling weight. But towing in general is one of this beasts greatest assets. A friend and I shared towing a dead Polaris Ranger just yesterday. We drug it through some nasty stuff. Mine drug him up a very long loose rocky hill. At 1941 miles, the original clutches are still showroom tight. Alot has to do with how you drive it. Another tip you should add is don't do full throttle shifts using the paddles. It makes the rpms spike (which in reality is a slipping clutch). I'm confident you will love this machine. I've loved mine since day one.
Yea, I'm with @Delton on this cause I was the other friend that shared the towing on the Polaris yesterday. I put it in low range, 4 wheel lock with the manual button pushed so there would be no shifting unless I initiated it. I kept the RPM well above lugging and pulled the polaris through some nasty mud along with over some rough ledges and rocks. I hear a lot about clutches on the forum and mine might poop the bed tomorrow but I believe it's more how you drive the machine that lends itself to less problems with them.;) That being said I'm sure doing everything right isn't always the answer either. Some that have had problems with their clutches don't abuse their SxS's but some owners do tear stuff up continually. :cool: All and all I think Honda makes one heck of a utility SxS and will continue to improve it. Oh and welcome to the forum.
 
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0860silverado

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To clarify on that shifting, what I meant was accelerate as hard as you want but to shift, I hold throttle steady. That takes some of the load off the drivetrain during the shift. You'll find the rpms don't spike and you have a more solid shift. Enjoy your stay!!
I know what you mean. That's how I drive my truck! It has become a habit, especially while towing...I'll accelerate to 4K rpm then back off and let tranny shift then get back in it. That way there is less engine tourque during that moment when tranny is between gears. My truck has right at 200,000 miles without a single trans issue and when I changed fluid at 100K it looked like the day it was put in. I notice that I subconsciously drive my P1K the same way too so maybe this will keep my clutches from dying too soon. And I never use the paddle shifters so I'm hopeful that I'll be ok. All of the replies here are easing my mind some. I was really scared to touch the thing!
 
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