P1000 P1000 fouling plugs?

[moparornocar]

Oh and for the record, mine starts like s*** too once in awhile. Usually if it’s been sitting for a few days. Little rap on the gas to clear her throat and all is well. Which reminds me, I need to go riding, stat!

 

[Delton]

I’d really like a twin of snuffs setup, but I’m not really set up in the shop to be playing much with tubing. Maybe one day.

You just need to live closer to me lol. I'd like to try a twin setup as well. Wish I had a buddy with a motorcycle junkyard so I could try different canisters. Definitely trying a tractor muffler. Some sound wicked on ATVs. Not sure bout a twin cylinder though.

 

[moparornocar]

You just need to live closer to me lol. I'd like to try a twin setup as well. Wish I had a buddy with a motorcycle junkyard so I could try different canisters. Definitely trying a tractor muffler. Some sound wicked on ATVs. Not sure bout a twin cylinder though.

I wish lol.

 

[Delton]

Gonna have to try my old fart can just for the hell of it lol.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Gonna have to try my old fart can just for the hell of it lol.
View attachment 56569

Is that from a neon? Make sure you do a video of the sound

 

[Delton]

Is that from a neon? Make sure you do a video of the sound

Yeah but don't tell anybody lol. It was actually too quiet after I turbo'd it. It is a straight thru and about 3" ID. Should definitely add some volume to it lol

 

[CumminsPusher]

Yeah but don't tell anybody lol. It was actually too quiet after I turbo'd it. It is a straight thru and about 3" ID. Should definitely add some volume to it lol

I love it it's going to be loud! We fired up the 1000 one time with no muffler in the garage, it sounded like a really pissed off Rotary with 1500 hp. Made your eyelids vibrate lol.

 

[aprils_fool]

Not to over look the obvious but it could just be a bad plug from the get go. Just like the vehicles themselves every component done in production work has a FRIDAY and MONDAY!!!!
As far as the comments about pausing after turning the key on and then starting it makes perfect sense with any fuel injection system , as it may not have adequate fuel pressure if you don't let the fuel pump run first.
The MID 90's GM vortec motors wouldn't even open the injectors to start if there was less than 60 psi of fuel pressure.

 

[Muttly]

alright, I'm paying this forward for the next person with these issues-

My symptoms-
Bought 2016 p1000 in September, first week I took it hunting in northern Michigan. Occasionally it would start hard, then sputter for a few seconds, if you tried to shift it into reverse or drive it would stall out. Usually it cleared right up but once or twice it took SEVERAL tries to get it to run. The rest of the time it ran great. put 350 miles on it in 6 days.

Got home, no issues, very rarely had a hard start that would clear right up.

Last week, had to fetch a deer out of the back 40, ran fine all the way back there, shut it off for ten minutes to clean the deer and take pictures, had a hard re-start didn't run well at all. If I let off the throttle it would die and have another hard start, shift-stall-start-shift-stall-swear-start-shift-stall: all this while weaving thru the woods. Got to the main lane, opened her up and it cleared out.

All weekend it's been down to running on one cylinder. With the intermittent problem I just knew it was electrical. I unplugged the spark plug boots one at a time and determined it was the forward cylinder that was not firing. I ran the checks on the fuel injector, checked the coils, pulled the plug and got spark. I put it back together and ran it down the road, same issues, rechecked spark and the front plug was dead.

Plug was dark, but not horrible. Chased more wires, swore a little and finally pulled both plugs and switched them. Now the front cylinder fires and the back is dead....

Tomorrow I'll pick up two new plugs and we'll know for sure....

 

[0860silverado]

alright, I'm paying this forward for the next person with these issues-

My symptoms-
Bought 2016 p1000 in September, first week I took it hunting in northern Michigan. Occasionally it would start hard, then sputter for a few seconds, if you tried to shift it into reverse or drive it would stall out. Usually it cleared right up but once or twice it took SEVERAL tries to get it to run. The rest of the time it ran great. put 350 miles on it in 6 days.

Got home, no issues, very rarely had a hard start that would clear right up.

Last week, had to fetch a deer out of the back 40, ran fine all the way back there, shut it off for ten minutes to clean the deer and take pictures, had a hard re-start didn't run well at all. If I let off the throttle it would die and have another hard start, shift-stall-start-shift-stall-swear-start-shift-stall: all this while weaving thru the woods. Got to the main lane, opened her up and it cleared out.

All weekend it's been down to running on one cylinder. With the intermittent problem I just knew it was electrical. I unplugged the spark plug boots one at a time and determined it was the forward cylinder that was not firing. I ran the checks on the fuel injector, checked the coils, pulled the plug and got spark. I put it back together and ran it down the road, same issues, rechecked spark and the front plug was dead.

Plug was dark, but not horrible. Chased more wires, swore a little and finally pulled both plugs and switched them. Now the front cylinder fires and the back is dead....

Tomorrow I'll pick up two new plugs and we'll know for sure....

Looks like aprils_fool might have nailed it! A close inspection with a magnifying glass may reveal a fracture in the porcelain insulator. Couple that with a little humidity and you got problems. I hope for you that's all it is!

 

[0860silverado]

alright, I'm paying this forward for the next person with these issues-

My symptoms-
Bought 2016 p1000 in September, first week I took it hunting in northern Michigan. Occasionally it would start hard, then sputter for a few seconds, if you tried to shift it into reverse or drive it would stall out. Usually it cleared right up but once or twice it took SEVERAL tries to get it to run. The rest of the time it ran great. put 350 miles on it in 6 days.

Got home, no issues, very rarely had a hard start that would clear right up.

Last week, had to fetch a deer out of the back 40, ran fine all the way back there, shut it off for ten minutes to clean the deer and take pictures, had a hard re-start didn't run well at all. If I let off the throttle it would die and have another hard start, shift-stall-start-shift-stall-swear-start-shift-stall: all this while weaving thru the woods. Got to the main lane, opened her up and it cleared out.

All weekend it's been down to running on one cylinder. With the intermittent problem I just knew it was electrical. I unplugged the spark plug boots one at a time and determined it was the forward cylinder that was not firing. I ran the checks on the fuel injector, checked the coils, pulled the plug and got spark. I put it back together and ran it down the road, same issues, rechecked spark and the front plug was dead.

Plug was dark, but not horrible. Chased more wires, swore a little and finally pulled both plugs and switched them. Now the front cylinder fires and the back is dead....

Tomorrow I'll pick up two new plugs and we'll know for sure....

And don't forget to verify the correct gap. (pre gapped my a$$). And don't use too much anti-sieze. (can't ground properly if all the threads are covered with it). And don't over-torque. (looser than you would think). Ok...I know you know what you're doing lol!

 

[Muttly]

And don't forget to verify the correct gap. (pre gapped my a$$). And don't use too much anti-sieze. (can't ground properly if all the threads are covered with it). And don't over-torque. (looser than you would think). Ok...I know you know what you're doing lol!

How do you gap em with that tiny little electrode? I don't even want to touch a feeler gauge to it.

 

[0860silverado]

How do you gap em with that tiny little electrode? I don't even want to touch a feeler gauge to it.

When I replaced my truck plugs, I carefully checked them all for correct gap, and to my surprise, they were all correct. Maybe that's what part of the extra cost is... making sure they are gapped to spec. As far as adjusting an incorrect gap on an iridium plug? I'd exchange it instead of trying to re-gap it. Maybe an iridium spark plug expert can chime in on this one...

 

[Muttly]

Nothing is easy, no dealer close had plugs in stock. Drove over an hour to the dealer in Brighton to get plugs.

Plugs are in, running great, while it's all tore apart I'll change the fluids...

 

[1BadDart]

Mine is still running fine after the plug change, but it ran fine for months at a time before the change too. The thing is that when it was running rough I could pull either plug wire and it made no difference. Time will tell I suppose.

 

[Average_Joe]

My P1K5 is just over a year old and around 1400 miles on the odometer I'm on my 3rd set of plugs.

 

[Smitty335]

My P1K5 is just over a year old and around 1400 miles on the odometer I'm on my 3rd set of plugs.

Somethings amiss

 

[joeymt33]

Somethings amiss

I agree. I bought in late 2015 and over 2000 miles on original plugs.

These aren’t two-stroke motors, we shouldn’t be adding oil to them! Just kidding

 

[sporttrac4x4]

still the original plugs but I did buy some just in case.

 

[Average_Joe]

I signed the papers and took my Pioneer home that night it died and just turned over and over after 5 minutes of cranking it finally started. It went right back to the dealer they claimed fouled plugs and charged me to fix it. One of the services the plugs were changed without looking up my machine I got charged for those too. Love motorsports is on my s*** list they gave our comfort kit away, changed my plugs twice at my expense it's been a craptastic experience all the way around.