P500 P500 Valve adjustment

[Razorback]

It doesn’t need to be adjusted unless you hear them, or it’s slow starting. I’ve got 3,000 miles on mine without having adjusted. People have 20 year old Honda ATV’s all over that have never been adjusted.

What he said^^^

 

[wbroth]

Two years late on this thread but will post anyway. Removing the plastic is a PITA. I used the straw method to find TDC and would not bother trying to use the impossible to see mark on the flywheel. Finding TDC was actually pretty easy turning the engine over with a ratchet. Exhaust was dead on .009 and intake was loose by a thousandth plus. Set to spec and a bit quieter. Won’t be doing this again anytime soon. Just happy knowing they are right.

 

[70Bones]

Two years late on this thread but will post anyway. Removing the plastic is a PITA. I used the straw method to find TDC and would not bother trying to use the impossible to see mark on the flywheel. Finding TDC was actually pretty easy turning the engine over with a ratchet. Exhaust was dead on .009 and intake was loose by a thousandth plus. Set to spec and a bit quieter. Won’t be doing this again anytime soon. Just happy knowing they are right.

That's how I do it!

 

[Morpheus]

I was going to take my P500 in for it's oil change at the 700 mile mark. I was told it would be 425.00 because the valves needed to be checked. When I took it in for the 100 mile they said they checked them and they were fine. I called another dealer to see what they would charge and they asked if I had brought it in for the 100 mile check. I told them I had and they said, "The valves are set then. They shouldn't need to be re-checked." Due to the fact that I don't have the $$$$ to take it to the dealer I bought it from I changed the oil and everything myself but didn't mess with the valves. That is a little out of my league. I know that the Owners Manual says to have it checked and that is gospel to me so I'm saving up for the next service to make sure they are good. All this to ask, How necessary is it? I've not heard of issues with valves in these machines. Is this something to worry about in your opinions???

 

[trigger]

Been running mine for 3 1/2 years and have never had it checked.

 

[Gassygordo]

2200 miles and have not been checked. I bought a 2001 Rubicon in 2000 and ran it over 13,000 miles on the original spark plug and valves never adjusted. Sold it a year ago.

 

[HUCK]

I was going to take my P500 in for it's oil change at the 700 mile mark. I was told it would be 425.00 because the valves needed to be checked. When I took it in for the 100 mile they said they checked them and they were fine. I called another dealer to see what they would charge and they asked if I had brought it in for the 100 mile check. I told them I had and they said, "The valves are set then. They shouldn't need to be re-checked." Due to the fact that I don't have the $$$$ to take it to the dealer I bought it from I changed the oil and everything myself but didn't mess with the valves. That is a little out of my league. I know that the Owners Manual says to have it checked and that is gospel to me so I'm saving up for the next service to make sure they are good. All this to ask, How necessary is it? I've not heard of issues with valves in these machines. Is this something to worry about in your opinions???

DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY ! I've had several Honda ohv s , right now just my Pioneer and my Talon BUT I have never checked the valves on any of them and never needed to . If you experience hard starting or valve noise (a lil rattling sound) then check them, otherwise ride it , have fun , keep your oil up to date and your air filter serviced when need be . It will last longer than ..........., dirt ? Oops , Oh heck how could I forget my 1978 XR 200 I bought new. Nope no valve issue on it either .

 

[Montecresto]

All this to ask, How necessary is it?

That’s subjective, and you’re going to get varying feedback. Personally, as long as I don’t hear them and it starts good, I’m not touching them. Its been four years and over 3 K miles that way.

 

[Mudder]

My valve covers are still a virgin. 3 yrs and counting.
Multi - Poll - Valve Adjustment or not

 

[Morpheus]

DONT WASTE YOUR MONEY ! I've had several Honda ohv s , right now just my Pioneer and my Talon BUT I have never checked the valves on any of them and never needed to . If you experience hard starting or valve noise (a lil rattling sound) then check them, otherwise ride it , have fun , keep your oil up to date and your air filter serviced when need be . It will last longer than ..........., dirt ? Oops , Oh heck how could I forget my 1978 XR 200 I bought new. Nope no valve issue on it either .

Thank you

 

[whitebear]

I have 50 miles on my new 2019 P5, so I asked the Service Manager where I bought it about adjusting the valves. He said it is his experience that yes, they need to be checked but they only check the exhaust . He said it is usually out enough that it needs it. Since I bought it there he will cut me a deal for 350.00 I will do my own adjustment at 100 miles and document it for warranty . Not sure what to think.....

 

[whitebear]

I have 50 miles on my new 2019 P5, so I asked the Service Manager where I bought it about adjusting the valves. He said it is his experience that yes, they need to be checked but they only check the exhaust . He said it is usually out enough that it needs it. Since I bought it there he will cut me a deal for 350.00 I will do my own adjustment at 100 miles and document it for warranty . Not sure what to think.....

Just did my 100 mile valve inspection. Followed Code54 instructions and he was spot on. No surprises, yes it was a PITA. My intake was .006 and exhaust was .009, both in specs. I did it just to know. Took pictures for any warranty issues down the road. Had my wife help me find TDC and told her about saving 350. by doing it myself. I am sure she will help me spend that savings somewhere. For a peace of mind , I am glad I checked it.

Whitebear

 

[Morpheus]

Just did my 100 mile valve inspection. Followed Code54 instructions and he was spot on. No surprises, yes it was a PITA. My intake was .006 and exhaust was .009, both in specs. I did it just to know. Took pictures for any warranty issues down the road. Had my wife help me find TDC and told her about saving 350. by doing it myself. I am sure she will help me spend that savings somewhere. For a peace of mind , I am glad I checked it.

Whitebear

Thank you I'm glad to hear your machine was in specs and you were able to save money. Maybe you will luck out and your wife will help spend your savings on something nice for your machine ;-) Hope you have a happy Thanksgiving!

 

[Code54]

Glad the instructions helped! It is not a bad job, just takes some time and a few tools. I always figure every dollar saved is a dollar I can spend on upgrades!

 

[Reverseen]

I would be curious how many people went through all the trouble to adjust valves only to find them still properly adjusted as Code54 found??

So very true on the valve adjustment it’s a lot of work to find out they’re perfect Hondas are pretty bulletproof but yes the valve adjustment is needed every so often I just received in the mail my shop service manual it is quite the Bible but I love it

 

[Montecresto]

So very true on the valve adjustment it’s a lot of work to find out they’re perfect Hondas are pretty bulletproof but yes the valve adjustment is needed every so often I just received in the mail my shop service manual it is quite the Bible but I love it

Wow, you dug back on that one...🤣👍

Well 4 years later mine still do not need to be adjusted. I go by the rule that if I can’t hear them and the P5 is starting swiftly, it’s good. The drive train under the P5 is tried and tested for 30 years in Honda 4 wheelers now that have been running around all these years, so many of them never adjusted. But I said that four years ago and say this now fwiw, obviously it’s my experienced opinion but I would never discourage anybody for following Honda’s maintenance schedule....✌

 

[Moptop]

This is a a basic guide to checking and adjusting the valves but please do so at your own risk as I am not a Honda Mechanic and am putting this up for informational purposes only


Most of the Tools needed:

1) Flat head screwdriver

2) Flashlight

3) 10mm box wrench

4) 6mm Allen head socket

5) Crescent wrench

6) Feeler gauge

7) Sparkplug wrench

8) Dental mirror

9) Phillips Screw driver

10) Torque wrench

Honda recommends a valve adjustment at the first 100 miles or 20 hours, and every 600 miles/100 hours after that.


It is a good idea to wash your machine before you start just so there is less mud to fall into places where you don’t want dirt and mud (the valves, inspections hole, etc)

I took a bunch of photos to give you some idea what is involved so please see belowView attachment 4905
View attachment 4904
View attachment 4906
I forgot to take a photo before I removed my ECM but if you unplug it you can move it out of the way and make things a bit easier on yourself
View attachment 4907
Do this to both panels - left and right

View attachment 4908
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Now unthread the seatbelt from the plastic covers and remove the plastic that was under the seats and move the plastic (photo above) cover that held the wires out of the way. Don't really need to fully remove it, just get it so you can work on the valves.

View attachment 4922

View attachment 4910
Go ahead and remove the spark plug - you need it gone to find Top Dead Center and to release some of the engines compression. Don't try to find TDC yet - you are just getting ready to.

View attachment 4911
This gives you a little room to see the inspection port (Flywheel TDC "T" mark)

View attachment 4912

View attachment 4913
Due to the very tight work area I could not get a photo of what it looks like inside (on the flywheel) of the "T" you are looking for but it is basically a T with a line

View attachment 4914


View attachment 4915
You will need to remove both the covers. The one is in the photo and there is the 2nd one that is below the sticker (Cant see it in the photo but it looks the same and also gets removed -see the next photo)

View attachment 4916

View attachment 4917
While you have the cover off make sure it is clean and the O ring is intact and has a light coat of oil

Now is when you find TDC

Finding top dead center (TDC) on this machine is a real PAIN because of the way the motor is located so be prepared. To adjust the valves you have to have a COLD engine (think Honda says below 95F.


There are several ways to find TDC but first remove the spark plug and get a flashlight.


1) Stick a straw in the sparkplug hole and wait until it hits the high point where there is no pressure on the valves (it works but is not the best)


2) Use a wrench to turn the motor over and watch in the inspection port for the “T” on the flywheel to know you hit TDC – really the best way


3) Put the machine in 5th gear, look into the inspection port and SLOWLY roll it forward until you see the “T”. This is what I did. It is extremely hard to see the marks but it can be done.

To see in the inspection port I had to use a dental mirror (inspection mirror would have been better), flashlight and some very uncomfortable positions. If you remove the rear passenger wheel and the battery box you maybe able to see it more clearly without using a dental mirror but it will take some extra work to get to that point.

If you miss the “T” you have to do a full cycle to get back to it, you can’t just roll the machine backwards. Basically if you miss it, just start over. If you have your inspection/adjustment ports off when you push the machine you can see them opening and closing so you can gauge about when you are going to hit TDC. If you try to insert the gauge (and you see the piston is at TDC) and there is NO room for it to fit in you are most likely in the exhaust stroke – keep going. Never turn the engine backwards, just restart if you miss it.

View attachment 4921

-(Sorry could not take photos and move the machine, watch the valves, watch piston and check for the "T" in the inspection port with a mirror and flashlight and take photos - Sorry I'm not that coordinated..... LOL)

This image is what are looking for inside the inspection hole.
View attachment 4923

Once you have TOP DEAD CENTER look at the valves
View attachment 4918

Here is a photo I found on the net that shows how to measure the clearance (Photo is not a Pioneer but the idea is the same).
.006 is the correct valve clearance + or - .001
View attachment 4919
When adjusting the valves you need to slide the feeler gauge in and when you pull it out there will be a little resistance but it is not hard to pull it out. I have had it described to me as the amount of pressure would be similar to removing a sheet of paper from a closed book. Sort of a little bit of drag as you remove it but not needing a hard pull.
Measure your clearance (Please see above on how to do this - .006 is the correct intake valve clearance + or - .001, and .009 exhaust) and if it is too loose or to tight you need to loose the nut, and turn the slotted tappet. Remeasure and when you get it correct tight the nut down. The torque setting is 13 lbf.ft. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN this nut as they can strip. Also once you get everything snugged up recheck your measurements as things can change a little as you get everything locked down. It does not take much of a turn of the tappet to change the clearance of the valve so always check and recheck everything.
Here is what it looks like when you are adjusting them
View attachment 4920
.006 is the correct intake valve clearance + or - .001
Mine was dead on .006/.009 so I didn't have to adjust mine - you may or may not have to so I staged this photo just for reference. Anyway, once everything is set correctly it is time to put the covers back on the valves, replace the inspection port cover, reattach the battery box, and put the plastic back in place along with the ECM.
That is really all there is to adjusting the valves. If things were easier to get to it would be a ten minute job - really the hardest thing is making sure you are at TDC, after that everything is accessible.

 

[Moptop]

Great Job Code 54, you should be a Tech writer for honda engineering

 

[Code54]

LOL - Thank you and glad it helped.

 

[Jerryg]

It looks like it will be much easier to do on the 520.

I checked the valve clearance on my Rancher after about 50 hours because it seemed noisy to me.

They were within spec, so I wasted a couple of hours.