P1000m5 Pioneer 1000-5 can’t get air out of coolant system

[Mopower58]

Try a coolant vacuum, I don't mess around trying to burp any more. 5 min and done with vacuum. the tool sucks air out replaces it with coolant. also it will tell u if u have a leak or head gasket blown it won't pull any vacuum if there's a leak

This is the one I have.

MSM300CRA - Vacuum Assist Coolant Refiller

Use with shop air (80+ PSI) to create a vacuum and refill a drained cooling system in less than five minutes. Helps prevent "airlocks". Compatible with most cooling system adapters. Powerful 2.4 CFM vacuum generator and large fluid passageways give the refiller a fluid flow rate of 2.4 gallons...

webcat.cornwelltools.com

 

[Admin]

 

[Remington]

It flows fine at all times except when overheating, but as soon as you take rad cap off it flows just fine so unless it can intermittently work I think the water pump is okay. Like I’ve said it will idle all day and ride for a long time before this happens. Plenty of time for it to overheat if it was not flowing

I would take take that stat out and put in a pot of cold water on your stove with thermometer in the water. Heat up the water and monitor your stat, and when it opens take note of the thermometer. This will tell u when the stat is opening. You will need to know the stat rating. If its opening to early,not at all or opening way past the rating you have a bad stat. This is an old mechanic trick I learned some time ago. Tried and tested.

Also, loke stated above, check and make sure the fan is coming on when it should. Also not mentioned, powerwash the fuc out of that radiator as well. Ive seen and been a victim where they look clean but really are not. If all that checks out, if u dont have the fan override plug from the club store, get one. This will allow u to do a small witch to leave your fan in auto off or on all the time. Its a very cheep and worth doing anyway mod. Would be interested with the fan on 24/7 while riding if it will still overheat.

All of this is a process of elimination. If your jumping around you'll miss something and get all flustered. Like my old pappy use to say, if u dont know where to go, go back to the beginning

 

[Chamby1000-5]

Is your radiator fan running when it overheats? May be an intermittent fan problem. I've heard of this happening and a computer reflash seems to solve it. Or possibly the fan relay going bad and working intermittently.

Fan works as it should cycles on and off while not overheating and runs constantly while overheating, problem is I’m getting air in coolant system preventing water/coolant from circulating


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[Chamby1000-5]

I would take take that stat out and put in a pot of cold water on your stove with thermometer in the water. Heat up the water and monitor your stat, and when it opens take note of the thermometer. This will tell u when the stat is opening. You will need to know the stat rating. If its opening to early,not at all or opening way past the rating you have a bad stat. This is an old mechanic trick I learned some time ago. Tried and tested.

Also, loke stated above, check and make sure the fan is coming on when it should. Also not mentioned, powerwash the fuc out of that radiator as well. Ive seen and been a victim where they look clean but really are not. If all that checks out, if u dont have the fan override plug from the club store, get one. This will allow u to do a small witch to leave your fan in auto off or on all the time. Its a very cheep and worth doing anyway mod. Would be interested with the fan on 24/7 while riding if it will still overheat.

All of this is a process of elimination. If your jumping around you'll miss something and get all flustered. Like my old pappy use to say, if u dont know where to go, go back to the beginning

Thermostat starts to open at 150 fully open at 165 degrees, but I have the thermostat out right now to rule it out as a problem, still overheats. Fan runs as it should when not overheating and runs constantly when overheating, my problem is not lack of cooling is air getting trapped causing water to stop flowing, when it is overheating the motor will be 200 plus degrees and the radiator will be less than 100 degrees


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[Chamby1000-5]

I would take take that stat out and put in a pot of cold water on your stove with thermometer in the water. Heat up the water and monitor your stat, and when it opens take note of the thermometer. This will tell u when the stat is opening. You will need to know the stat rating. If its opening to early,not at all or opening way past the rating you have a bad stat. This is an old mechanic trick I learned some time ago. Tried and tested.

Also, loke stated above, check and make sure the fan is coming on when it should. Also not mentioned, powerwash the fuc out of that radiator as well. Ive seen and been a victim where they look clean but really are not. If all that checks out, if u dont have the fan override plug from the club store, get one. This will allow u to do a small witch to leave your fan in auto off or on all the time. Its a very cheep and worth doing anyway mod. Would be interested with the fan on 24/7 while riding if it will still overheat.

All of this is a process of elimination. If your jumping around you'll miss something and get all flustered. Like my old pappy use to say, if u dont know where to go, go back to the beginning

I’ve had fan wired to come on with key and still overheated, it will idle all day with no issues and doesn’t happen at a certain point just randomly will jump from 2 bars to 4 and I can take rad cap off and crank up it will spit coolant out and drop engine temp to equal radiator temp


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[Remington]

I’ve had fan wired to come on with key and still overheated, it will idle all day with no issues and doesn’t happen at a certain point just randomly will jump from 2 bars to 4 and I can take rad cap off and crank up it will spit coolant out and drop engine temp to equal radiator temp


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If your 100% positive it's air, then u need to just plane get it out. But it sounds like you've done all that so I'd rule that out. My next thing would be the water pump not flowing enough. I know u said u can see fluid flowing. But if your not getting water to flow then the seals in the pump have to be bad or some sludge causing a dam at certain points. You haven't flushed the system out from what I've read, I would do a through flush before I did anything else. Work smarter not harder.
How many miles on this ?

 

[Robobrainiac]

Is the temperature sensor bad?

 

[DRZRon1]

Suggestions above are to eliminate or confirm troubleshooting steps……to help solve the issue —-

Once an item has been crossed off the list - move on to the next step

 

[Chamby1000-5]

Is the temperature sensor bad?

Been checking temp at motor and radiator with temp gun and when the gauge says it’s hot it has been so I don’t have reason to believe it’s not


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[DRZRon1]

I’m with ya, trying to get the pressure test or vacuum test - hope it’s not head gasket

Dealers generally have no clue - my dealer never heard of the leaky front diff seal - mysterious

 

[Chamby1000-5]

If your 100% positive it's air, then u need to just plane get it out. But it sounds like you've done all that so I'd rule that out. My next thing would be the water pump not flowing enough. I know u said u can see fluid flowing. But if your not getting water to flow then the seals in the pump have to be bad or some sludge causing a dam at certain points. You haven't flushed the system out from what I've read, I would do a through flush before I did anything else. Work smarter not harder.
How many miles on this ?

The entire system is water at this point and I’ve let it run with a hose pipe in for over an hour so I would think it wouldn’t have any blockages, as for the water pump I thought it could be intermittently working or not working 100% but what throws me off is it is flowing (not sure how to measure if it’s at 100%) but i can ride for hours sometimes or it can idle for hours with no problems but sometimes will riding it will just jump for perfect temp to overheating and I know water is not circulating when this happens because the water in the rad will be cool and the motor be overheating, so it is some kind of blockage whether it is air or something else I’m not sure, but when I take the radiator cap off and crank it over it will blow a little bit of water and a lot of air( reason why I think it is air) leaning towards I’ve got a head gasket broke but at the same time if I did I feel like I would constantly pull air in and not just random like it does.


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[Chamby1000-5]

I’m with ya, trying to get the pressure test or vacuum test - hope it’s not head gasket

Dealers generally have no clue - my dealer never heard of the leaky front diff seal - mysterious

Lol yeah don’t doubt that was just trying to maybe find one case like mine but no luck with them that’s why I made this thread lots of minds on here


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[ODAMO]

My guess is that there is still air trapped and when it accumulates at the pump it cavitates.
It seems if there was a radiator cap type of vent with overflow bottle near the pump it would allow the water that is overheated to spew into an overflow bottle taking the aerated boiling water with it without opening the oem cap. After cool down both reservoirs would be free to replace the removed aerated coolant with airless coolant. Or maybe when you lift the front you have to lift if much higher...

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

Head gasket.

 

[Chamby1000-5]

Head gasket.

Leaning towards head gasket, only thing about it is it doesn’t do it all the time. I feel like if it was a head gasket it would suck in air every time it’s running even at idle but especially during normal riding, prob going to have to break down and bring it the shop to take the head off and check it out


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[Chamby1000-5]

My guess is that there is still air trapped and when it accumulates at the pump it cavitates.
It seems if there was a radiator cap type of vent with overflow bottle near the pump it would allow the water that is overheated to spew into an overflow bottle taking the aerated boiling water with it without opening the oem cap. After cool down both reservoirs would be free to replace the removed aerated coolant with airless coolant. Or maybe when you lift the front you have to lift if much higher...

At this point I hope so I’m going to winch it up a tree and try a few times maybe it will work if it doesn’t I’m going to take the head off and inspect gasket


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[Robobrainiac]

https://amazon.com/RELD-Gasket-Tester-Combustion-Detector/dp/B07RS3N98V/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[Remington]

Leaning towards head gasket, only thing about it is it doesn’t do it all the time. I feel like if it was a head gasket it would suck in air every time it’s running even at idle but especially during normal riding, prob going to have to break down and bring it the shop to take the head off and check it out


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You are correct about it would have to do it all the time. Head gaskets aren't intermittent issues. have to be and your crank case oil would be milky. Not sure if mentioned u looked at it or not?

Also on the “jump” to overheat. Are you really overheating? As in, have u physically checked your temp when it jumps from fine to quickly overheat? Are you blowing off fluid when it happens?

 

[ODAMO]

Is it possible that crank case pressure can introduce air into cooling system from the impeller drive shaft making it appear to be a head gasket?

 

[Smitty335]

Is it possible that crank case pressure can introduce air into cooling system from the impeller drive shaft making it appear to be a head gasket?

????